Turning Key Does Nothing

"If its not one thing it is an

"If its not one thing it is another. Not only am I having problems with my strbd OD not going up when I push either the handle or trailer switches now the strb engine will not start. When I turn the key absolutely nothing happens. No "click", no slow turn over, no nothing. I have checked batteries and they are fully charged, battery switches are on and THE PORT ENGINE STARTS. I did have the shifter console cover off and left hand throttle/trim/tilt handle partially off to check the wires in regards to the OD not coming up. It is all back together now and I have jiggled the strbd handle to see if the neutral position might have shifted. However, it remains totally unresponsive when the key is turned. Anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?? Have 2001 5.7L EFIs and Bravo III ODs with dual control Quicksilver 3000 shifters. "

"I would check your main 50 am

"I would check your main 50 amp breaker first. It should topside on the engine right behind the throttle body and will have a bright red button on it marked 50A.
If you reset it and all is well, I would watch it closely. If it blew there is a reason. You may have shorted out the wiring when you were working on the shift control.
If its OK, the next thing to check is if power is getting to the B terminal at the key switch.
Rod"

"There is a three wire plug on

"There is a three wire plug on the power trim unit that can vibrate loose. Pull it off and check for corrosion and reinstall. Clean the power trim cables at the battery.

Battery switches carry a lot of amps and are prone to fail internally for one engine and not the other. Remove it from the circuit and see if it starts. A "fried" slave solenoid can keep it from starting. W/the key in the run position, check for 12 VDC on both big threaded terminals. If they are blackened it is a good chance it is fried. Located right behind the 50 amp breaker.

The same thing can happen to the power trim solenoids. Any of them can be "CAREFULLY" jumped to see if the drive comes up or the engine starts. "BIG SPARKS" when you jump them with the batteries connected. BILGE MUST BE WELL VENTILATED or you will be history!"

"I had this same problem once,

"I had this same problem once, although intermittent. Went on for 2 months. Replaced everything from starters, solenoids to cables. Ended up being an intermittent key switch!! Replaced for $20 after spending lots of $"

Ken:

You prove the importan

Ken:

You prove the importance of "TESTING" a part and not just replacing it. A "MANUAL" WITH A WIRING DIAGRAM WOULD HELP ONE TROUBLESHOOT THE PROBLEM.

One problem that I have seen when it comes to an individual working on their boat is a lack of understanding basic "TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURES".

Most manuals have step-by-step block diagrams to follow when troubleshooting. Having general knowledge of DIRECT CURRENT voltage systems and the ability to read an electric schematic is a big plus. W/o it one is hindered in their process of solving the problem. I suggest that anyone interested in working on their boat read the manual from front to back and either get a book on automotive and marine electrical systems to read or take a course at their local tech. vocational school. It is fun to learn and will fill your brain with an amazing knowledge and a sense of "I CAN DO IT". Enough "soap boxing".

"My problem was it would never

"My problem was it would never do it when I had my digital meter in my hand. It was very intermittent.....very!! I kept thinking it was a dead spot in the armature of the starter. I took it to the local shop that rebuilds starters and altinators. They put in new brushes, checked the armature and said it could be an intermittent winding but go ahead and try it and let them know. Two weeks later it fail again and I went back to them. They put in a new armature. Very next trip to water it done it again. So I thought hey it could be an intermittent solenoid. Remember....it would never do it often enough or while I had a meter in my hand. Usually turning the keyswitch a second time made it crank. Finally one day it did seem to go more than intermittent...it was a solid condition. I then noticed that if I didn't turn the keyswitch quite so hard( or in other words all the way to the right until it stopped turning) it started on the second attempt. I tried this several times, turning it really hard it would not crank, turning it almost to the stopping point and it would crank fine. I replaced it and that's the end of story. However I did take the old one apart and noticed that the stopping point inside the switch looked worn off......allowing me to go slightly past the start position.

I have the big yellow Mercruiser books and others plus I worked in the service industry for 40 years in computers, ATMs and business machines of all types. As you probably know, intermittent problems give you gray hair."

"Ken et al:

That solution t

"Ken et al:

That solution took some observation and thinking. I am curious as to why the starter shop did not put the armature on a "growler", open core transformer. If there is an open winding it will tell them when the hacksaw blade is held on top of the armature.

SOLENOID TIP:

All boats have 3-4 solenoids on them. What I have found when troubleshooting is that one side of the solenoid wire studs going to the starter, tilt pump, etc. will tell you when it is getting "tired" and ready to be replaced. The threaded post will be blackened from high current caused by a burned internal contact. I don't wait for it to fail since it is a $12 part. If you take it apart you will see "fried" contacts."

"w. gregory:

Did you jumper

"w. gregory:

Did you jumper the neutral safety switch? Find the two wires coming out of the shift assy., yellow w/red stripe, and install a "quick connector" across them, the kind that slips over a wire and you squeeze with pliers."