Volvo Penta 570 dp what potential major problems

"Hi,
I'm thinking of buyi

"Hi,
I'm thinking of buying a 1991 Searay 250DA that has a Volvo Penta 570 dp with about 520 hours on it. I've attached a picture in case this isn't a 570 and somebody can tell me so.
My main question is:
What should I be looking for that will tell me if the engine has any major problems? Water in the oil and compression are the obvious things, but are there any other specific things that I can look for?
Also, are there any known inherent problems with the 570 that I should be wary of? Are they generally a good engine? Any help is appreciated.
thanks
Lee.
Volvo penta 570 dp

The 570 is a 350 Chevy engine

The 570 is a 350 Chevy engine with a dual pumper Holley carb. That should tell you most of it.

"Lee,
I have a similar engi

"Lee,
I have a similar engine, VP271C. A good, reliable, setup BUT, if I were you, I would ask if there was a lot of salt water use since the engine in the picture is raw water cooled. Furthermore, check the oil pan for rot. They are famous for rotting out."

"Yep, lots of salt water usage

"Yep, lots of salt water usage, no rot in the pan i could see.
Boat and engine checked out great so I bought it.
Ran smooth a couple of times out, probably about 6 hours in total, but yesterday I was towed in by the coastguard.
At the time we were cruising at 3500rpm at around 30knots (Water temp and oil pressure were fine) and some gear came loose, so I slowed to stow it. The engine dropped to idle then died when we stopped. Tried starting for a while until i thought the batterys were drained, with no luck, so called up the coastguard for a tow.
Charged the batterys overnight and tried turning over the engine this morning. At first I thought the batterys weren't charged properly, but they still had heaps of juice, just wasn't cranking freely.
Pulled the plugs to see water coming out, back cylinder on the left gushed out!! Water also in front cylinder on left and wet plugs on right side of block, but not filled with water like the left. I am now presuming the slow cranking was due to "hydrolocking(?)".
The oil isn't milky, but there seems to be more in there than b4 i went out.
I've removed the seawater intake, drained the water from the block and manifolds, sprayed lub (to dry it out, commercial product, but like CRC, WD40 or RP7) in the cylinders and turned it over with no plugs; its turning over very smoothly.

Before i start pulling off risers and manifolds, what should be my plan of attack for this problem, as i read on another forum about back flooding; could this be my problem? What should I look for? Should I put in some plugs and connect up the water and try to start it?
thanks
Lee."

"Hi,

I have an engine simil

"Hi,

I have an engine similar to yours attached to a 280 drive, and to prevent problems like the one you experienced I have attached an exhaust bellows with flapper. Here is the link to that part number:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-2757&returntopage= 80240797.htm

Installing that bellows should fix the water ingress problem.

Regarding the hydrolocking, you can try to start the engine and see what happens. Just let's hope that you didn't bend a rod while attempting to start with water inside the cylinders."

"Thanks El Pescador, Happy New

"Thanks El Pescador, Happy New Year and happy holidays.
I now just have to find a supplier who will post the exhaust bellows kit to NZ... or a supplier here.

I've been told by a bloke at the marina that as my exhaust comes out of the stern drive that my problem could not be backflooding; Is this true?

I'm gonna recheck compression this arvo and see if there are any problems there first b4 trying to start. Any other advice?
thanks
Lee."