Chinese parts are crap

"I bought a wheel bearing set

"I bought a wheel bearing set for my trailer made in "China". Had I known it came from there I would not have bought it. I'll cut to the chase. After spending an hour trying to install the larger bearing race by heating the hub and freezing the race and smashing my thumb w/a BF hammer, it would not @$#%&*ng fit!!!

Being part dumbass I finally compared the old one with the new and you guessed it; not the same size OD. No CHINESE for me again except for their food."

"Good lesson there Guy.
Troub

"Good lesson there Guy.
Trouble is, most of the time you can't be sure where the parts originate until you have paid your hard earned money! Bummer.
Most of the time though if you are dealing with any sort of reputable outfit, they will give you a full refund if things don't work out. Problem is by then you have wasted a lot of your time to find out it won't fit.
Life is unfair at times.
Rod"

"Rod:

It was Tractor Supply

"Rod:

It was Tractor Supply, a nationwide chain in the USA. Maybe they'll give me some money back for the large bearing race that won't fit. Fat chance of that happening but I will take the race back and complain about it. I am asking where the part is from before I buy in the future.

I was winterizing my engine today and tried out my IR Temp. Gun. The port manifold was running about 25 degs. warmer than the starboard. Port is new and starboard is 2 yrs. old. I am going to install a new T'stat housing w/new check ball valves. I think the old one has one ball that sticks or the spring is weak. All other temps are good. Great tool!"

"Guy;
They are a great tool i

"Guy;
They are a great tool indeed.
Just out of curiosity, what kind of temps were you getting?
My 6.2 normally shows the following once well warmed up
-the manifolds about 185-190
-the risers about 85-90
-the oil filter about 195-200
-inlet water hose at the T'stat housing about 80
-with the lake water at about 70, and a 160 T'stat

Rod"

Rod:

From what I can rememb

Rod:

From what I can remember:

port manifold about 125-135 F.
starboard manifold about 100-110 F.
port riser about 85-90 F.
starboard riser about 70-80 F.
oil filter about 195-200 F.
engine block about 138 F.
inlet water hose at T'stat housing about 65 F.
with the water hose about 62 F. and a 143 T'stat

Guy

"Those temps sure look good fo

"Those temps sure look good for the most part.
Funny that there is a difference in the manifolds and risers from side to side?
Did you say you were going to clean or replace the check balls in the cooling outlets?
We'd be interested in what you find, and if the temps even out thereafter.
Are all V-6's and V-8's equipped with the check balls to your knowledge?
Rod"

"Guy;
Is the 143 T'stat t

"Guy;
Is the 143 T'stat the right one for the 4.3?
I would have thought it should be a 160, or is there some other reason for 143?
Rod"

Rod:

It's the right T&#

Rod:

It's the right T'stat for 1987. Merc. did away with the check ball valves later. The T'stat temp. changed later also.

Guy

You have to love those

Guy

You have to love those well fitting Chinese parts dont you.
Hows the trailer rebuild going ? did you sort out your brakes OK.

Peter C

"Peter:

Finished the job to

"Peter:

Finished the job today. I had the drums turned and replaced EVERY PIECE of the 20 year old surge brake system. Brake lines and M. cyl. were solid rust inside and the tubing fittings got boogered up trying to remove them. Formed all the curves and bends in the brake lines. I spent about $250 in parts and several bruised knuckles.

I even put a spiral bend in the main line to get to the master cylinder from under the frame to over the top of it; it was shaped like Cobra ready to strike but turning its neck 90 degs. to his right and head 90 degs. to the rear. Both of those turns were less than 1.5" each. I found the trick to make the bends tight was to make the bend about 25-30 degs. in the opposite direction and then stretch the tubing by hand into the position needed.

Figured out how to bleed the lines by myself. On the last bleed stroke, if you let the master cylinder draw back before closing the bleeder nut you suck air into the system. I just jammed a large screwdriver in between the hitch tongue arm and the surge brake frame immobilizing it in the compressed position and then locked down the bleeder nut. Hard work but a fun learning experience; now I know surge brakes."

Guy;
Now you are our resident

Guy;
Now you are our resident expert on surge brakes too!

Rod

"Rod:

You are too kind! If

"Rod:

You are too kind! If I had to do it again I would buy a complete new weld on unit and have it welded. The comple drum brake unit is $103 & ship. (which is what I paid for parts to rebuild mine) from http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/T-D-86167/370015/Trailer+Couplers/Drum+Brake+A ctuator.html

About the T'stat assy. and different manifold & riser temps.: I installed a complete new T'stat assy. this afternoon. The one I removed had a buildup of 20 yrs. rust. The check ball valve springs seemed very weak. I did not run the engine since I fogged it yesterday and poured in two gals. of blue antifreeze into the intake at the T'stat. I string tested the one year old thermostat and it opened at 140 deg. using IR laser temp gun. I changed the hoses last year to the "T" valve using auto heater hose and not molded hose since it is a simple curve from the "T" ball valve stems to the risers and the cost for heater hose was $10 vs, $80 for molded hoses. What is your PO of my not using molded hoses? Guy"

"Guy;
Interesting question.

"Guy;
Interesting question.
I am usually an OEM part type when it comes to oil filters, oil, gaskets, pumps, plugs, wires, ignition parts, starters, alternators, etc.
But I must admit to having replaced OEM molded hoses in the past with standard NAPA auto heater hose, with good results so far.
I think if it was a tight situation that might put a kink in a standard hose I would bite the bullet and buy the OEM molded.
I have one that worries me on my 6.2 where the inlet cooling water hose attaches to a fitting on the inside of the alpha transom plate, then makes a tight 120 deg turn and attaches to the PS cooler mounted tranversely above the bellhousing.
I am watching it closely to make sure it does not develop a kink. If it does, I will likely replace it with heavy braided hose like that used on the suction side of a belt driven seawater pump.
Just my thoughts.
Rod"

Rod:

Thanks for your frank

Rod:

Thanks for your frank response. For your hose making the 120 deg. turn; get a copper water line elbow and insert it at the bend point.

Thanks again Guy

"Good suggestion Guy.
I was t

"Good suggestion Guy.
I was thinking of perhaps a length of flexible copper pipe, but not sure if it can be bent that tight.
More pondering to do on that issue I guess.
Rod"

"Would flexible copper cause t

"Would flexible copper cause turbulence in the water flow and perhaps disrupt the smooth flow of cooling water?

If you have an electrician friend, have him bend a piece of galv. conduit the size you need.

What about using a piece of clear reinforced potable PVC water line. It can be set with hot water to the position you need but you'll need a large spring to hold the form so it doesn't go flat on you. Use the clear reinforced PVC with the elbow so you can see your water flow.

I am tempted to use it if the riser/manifold temps don't even out. My intake manifold had a heavy layer of rust sludge in it but it runs cool. Is it time for a new intake?"

A section of formed copper pip

A section of formed copper pipe would have much better flow characteristics than a sharp 90 degree elbow. Not sure about the conduit. You can get preformed conduit elbows that are quite smooth and would flow well.

I would be a little worried about PVC in a marine application due to it's limited heat and vibration or damage tolerance. Or do you mean flexible reinforced clear water hose as used in RV's?

I think your intake manifold is fine as is; they don't see much heat anyhow. If you ever have it off for some reason you could get it hot tanked to clean it out.

Rod

"Rod:

Yes, flexible reinfor

"Rod:

Yes, flexible reinforced clear water hose as used in RV's. It has more burst strength than you'll need. Dip it into hot water for 10-15 secs. and you can form it easily and it will stretch to fit over a nipple or hose connection. I am using it now for my livewell water intake and drain. I think the largest ID is 3/4"; not sure.

Thanks, Guy"