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Trailer Brakes Anyone

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guyjg

Gold Medal Contributor
I need to change the 20 yr. ol

I need to change the 20 yr. old surge drum brakes on my trailer including master cylinder assy. and hoses. Any recommendations or tips are appreciated.
 
"I upgraded mine to stainless

"I upgraded mine to stainless discs. The setup was simple on my Load-Rite trailer. I have a 23' Wellcraft Nova XL, roughly 4000 lbs. They bolted on in place of the old drum set up. I used the 10", 5 lug version for $110 each here:

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=15 5

Easier rinsing after use in salt/brackish water, excellent performance at a reasonable price. Note: I only bought them here since they are a local trailer dealer for the manufacturer I own. I'm sure there are better prices, but local service has it's merits."
 
"Boat is 3,200 lbs. & trai

"Boat is 3,200 lbs. & trailer is 800 lbs. for a total of 4,000 lbs., dual axle w/surge brakes on front axle. Brakes were locked this spring when I pulled out of the driveway, I put it in reverse and backed up a few feet and then forward and they "POPPED" loose. Never thought anymore until last time out when I realized the trailer brakes never once locked the wheels in a quick stop as in the past. Doing this due for safety and their age; 21 yrs. Considering disc brakes vs. drum but I understand I need an electric reverse lockout. Big thanks guys."
 
"I use the standard master cyl

"I use the standard master cylinder lockout switch - same as I used for the drums. Small brass on/off manual valve works as well, placed in-line after master cylinder outlet(see link above). The local trailer shop sold me the master cylinder and the discs, with the valve. The only downside is that I have to get out and lock out the brakes before using reverse. Could be a pain if doing multiple forward/reverse jockeying, but the same could be said for drums. The small lockout valve allows for better jockeying, but if forgotten in the off position, the brakes will not function at all, where the electric is supposed to reset. How much trailering do you do? I keep mine on the trailer and head to the ramp to drop her in to use it and 3 years, no problems, no complaints."
 
"Guy...
I'm just about to

"Guy...
I'm just about to put brakes on my trailer (curently with no brakes at all, 3000 lbs total). The guy that I bought the boat from thought that spending an extra $300 on a CD player for the boat from the factory was more important than being able to stop while going down the road. So now I have the chore of installing complete brakes on this trailer - but it shouldn't be too bad. The surge actuator that I went for is a Titan #60. Very popular when you start looking around. I too questioned if I should go the disc brake route, but I think I'm going to do drum brakes. The boat stays at a cottage 90% of the time and only gets trailered spring and fall and maybe once or twice in between. I've found that drum kits seam to be less expensive here (Canada). Going with the free-backing drum set up there is no need for a reversing solenoid. If using a ball valve after the master, I wouldn't be too worried during multiple forward/reverse jockeying. Turn it off and leave it off while at the ramp, or parking at home. I don't even have trailer brakes now, so I don't think that moving back and forth 20 feet at a crawl is going to be a problem without your brakes turned on. I you do opt for discs with using an electric solenoid, most are wired into the back up lights of your tow vehicle and switch on/off as you shift in and out of reverse.
Just thinking out loud.
Wrench"
 
"Guy
I dont know, I wake up i

"Guy
I dont know, I wake up in the morning and the problem is solved.
Both Jim and Wrench's advice is sound. From experience and from a maintainance point of view I would convert to a disc brake system my self.
Much easier to clean that nasty corosive stuff out of when you pull it out of the water.
If you do a lot of miles I would consider setting up brakes on all 4 wheels you will just have to upgrade your master cylinder to get the response from the brakes you want.
I am not sure what your registration requirements are over there so I would take some advice from your local brake specialist if I were you.

Cheers
Peter C"
 
"Big Thanks to all of you. It

"Big Thanks to all of you. It has been raining here--drought ended--so I removed both drum & bearing assys. Starboard assy. was locked w/rust. Drums have virtually no cut marks; smooth all the way across. No trailer braking was due to shoes are way out of adjustment, worn and glazed; time for replacement. Wheel cylinders are barely seeping and rubber is cracked. Local dealer has complete backplate assys. for $52 each so I am going to keep the status quo system. Do I need to turn the drums? They are smooth w/o shoe pattern cuts and like new. Again, many thanks to you all."
 
Guy
For best results machine

Guy
For best results machine the drums and then get the new shoe's radius ground to match the drums.
Regards
Peter C
 
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