Johnson 115 V60 Excessive smoke at start up and poor idle characteristics

"This 1996 model has had crbs

"This 1996 model has had crbs serviced with repair kits, VRO serviced with repair kit. Puls restrictor replaced. The idle speed is still low even with timing indicated at recommended 4 deg.
The idling seems a bit better after all the above but the ingine stalls with a 'pffftt' and sometimes a puff of white smoke.
Does the recirculatory system have an effect on the idleing. How do I go about replacing the check valves in the system especially in the manifold. I worry trying to remove the valves from the block in case they break."

"symptoms sound like over oili

"symptoms sound like over oiling. try draining the carb bowls before starting. see if it starts, idles better."

"I tried draining the bowls as

"I tried draining the bowls as recommended but no difference to the problem. Earlier we bought a new VRO unit #435555 from a dealer in Singapore to replace the unit that was serviced with repair kits for fuel and oil pumps. THe assembly did not fit as the pump body was slightly different causing the fuel outlet elbow to not line up with the vapor tank. To get around the problem, I used the Electronic portion of the new VRO and the internal parts including the oil pump plunger in the old body even though I noticed the slight difference in length of the plunger. Could there be a problem with these interchanged parts? My problem here is the availability of spare parts. This unit is a BJ 115 SXEUA."

"The VRO kits only covers fuel

"The VRO kits only covers fuel and air sections, if anything vrong in oil/alarm the pump must be changes as complete unit. Do NOT mess with different plunger/alarm unit parts. This makes me wonder when You say oil pump was rebuild. By the way the nuber You give states 1997 model, and part number 0438400 as part number. That might have been superseeded, but the number You mention seem to belong to an older engine. Suggest You take contact with the Singapoore dealer again and get the right pump. Defective resiculation system (check-valves) might have an effect on idling, just check the valves in the intake. Use a syringe with Isopropanol and plastic hose on the valves. You should be able to push through, not suck. Forget about the ones in the block, they have no valve. Another 'item' that caused some trouble on those engines were the big rubber gaskets between the throtle-plate bodies and leaf-plate housing. If You want to 'dig into' it, buy a complete gasket kit - it gets normally cheaper that single gaskets."

"Morten,
I think we got the p

"Morten,
I think we got the problem licked - thanks for your input. I got a new VRO. Also got new m/fold to block gaskets which I think was more the root cause of the problem.Now I have to wait for better weather to do seatrials. The problem with trying to tune idle jets on land with the flushing muffs is expected. Have you any suggestions/experience using an old prop with blades cut down in size. I don't have test props that I can use. Thanks again and I guess there are many others out there with this same problem. I would now recommend the gasket change first, next a VRO repair kit for oil and fuel pumps before spending on a new VRO. The new gaskets are no longer squeegy rubber, but now alot stiffer. The experience to date with Johnson engines is their plastic components on carbs-especially- and other engine components suck. Why they ever used plastic I can't comprehend. The Yamahas here go on forever with little trouble. But of course they are premix models here."

"Forget about adjusting the id

"Forget about adjusting the idle mix on muffs, You need the exhaust back-pressure to get it right. You do not need the prop at all, as low idle is the interesting part, Cut-down prop will empty Your barrel in no time and may be a hazzard as well. As soon as idle-mix is set, You set the engine idle rpm by using the 'LOW' tab on the ign adjust on top.
Plastic components at least does not corrode, but has to be treated a bit carefully, do not overtighten screws!"