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Thread: Itbs alive

  1. #1
    karlow's Avatar
    karlow Guest

    Default "Thanks for all of the help, I

    "Thanks for all of the help, I got the fire victim running today. The only issue left is he tac is not working. I called the previous owner today he said it should be working. Thanks again for the tip on the the spray bottle with pre-mix in it. But here is the tip of the day. If you have a boat that will not run except on spay gas or starter fluid try this. Drain the gas for one or more carbs. What I found looked to be mainly oil. I drained two of the carbs. I started it again a few times with the spray bottle of premix. Just like magic it kept running. Since i only drained two of the carbs, it was running on two cylinders for a bit. Now it's just like down town! Now you know. It's Time for sea trails."

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va, US
    Posts
    1,111

    Default Test your rectifier for the ta

    Test your rectifier for the tach problem. If it got damaged your tach will not work. While you have the rectifier disconnected test your stator with an ohm meter.
    Bill H PTC USN Ret
    A manual is a cheap investment.

  3. #3
    karlow's Avatar
    karlow Guest

    Default I did the stator resistance te

    I did the stator resistance test while I was waiting for parts. The rectifier assembly is new. It works the battery voltage is increasing when the motor is running. I will need to find where the tach connects to the rectifier assembly. The boat is a 94 Tracker. The rectifier has three wires. Should there be a tach wire attached to the terminal strip to one of the stater wires? The original terminal strip was completely burned up.

    I swapped the wires around and it works somewhat. It's erratic. I think there are some bad connections in there somewhere. Tacker wiring is a little sketchy!

    Thanks guys

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Central West Florida
    Posts
    14,073

    Default "Swapping wires around when on

    "Swapping wires around when one does not know where those wires lead can be expensive.

    The tachometer should have a terminal marked "S" for sensor OR have a Gray wire leading from it. There should also be a Gray wire leading from the instrument cable wiring harness. That "S" terminal or Gray wire must connect to the rectifier's Yellow/Gray terminal and no other!

    The exception is that if a Yellow/Gray wire does not exist at the rectifier, the Gray wire should attach to one of the Yellow wires. If the tachometer does not work when attached to the first Yellow wire, try the other Yellow wire.

    It's quite possible that you may have damaged the rectifer when switching wires around so it would be a good idea to check it again.

    (Small Rectifier Test)
    (J. Reeves)

    Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

    Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

    Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

    Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.

    http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-John...tc?refid=store

    It would help if you would enter exactly what engine you're speaking of. What's the model number of that engine?"
    We occasionally have questions. If you fail to answer, it may affect ours.

  5. #5
    karlow's Avatar
    karlow Guest

    Default "I swapped the two yellow rect

    "I swapped the two yellow rectifier leads, and the two slater leads. The tach seems to kick in at higher RPM but does not seem to work at lower RPM. I think the issue is bad Tracker ground wiring. I get low resistance from the grey wire on the t-block to the tach. But I'm gettimg a reading as high as 100 ohms on the tachs Blk grd. lead. It also bad the Tracker terminal; strip. I may have to re-terminate some of the ground leads. My main issue is, I'm running on the hose with a fully charged battery. The battery voltage is getting up to 16Vdc during these test. This can't be good for the battery or any of the electronics. I may add a splitter from the house battery to the trolling batteries to help keep the voltage down. That would give me a 0.6V drop between them and some charge on the troll batteries."

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