Evinrude 115 died Help

1996 Evinrude 115 with 130 ho

1996 Evinrude 115 with 130 hours died suddenly. No spark at plugs. Checked kill switch = OK. New plugs. Replaced Power pack. Still dead. Cranks freely. No spark. Gets 12 V OK to engine from ignition switch. Any suggestions?

"Bill... Remove the black wire

"Bill... Remove the black wire with a yellow stripe (black/yellow) from the back of the ignition switch, then see if you have ignition. If you do, the ignition switch is shorted out.

If still no ignition, find the black rubber plug at the engine that goes to the powerpack(s) that also has the black/yellow wire. Carefully (VERY CAREFULLY) remove that black/yellow wire from the rubber plug. If you now have ignition, there is a short between that black/yellow wire and a ground somewhere in the wiring harness.

Note... the black/yellow wire leads from the p/pack up to the ignition switch, then internally across the ignition switch to the black wire at the switch which leads to a ground. When you turn the key off, those two wires are connected which shorts and kills the ignition. Keep me informed.

Joe "

Bill.... Also see the 13th en

Bill.... Also see the 13th entry down from yours which is entitled:

70hp Johnson - Year model? - No Spark

Joe.......

" Joe - thanks for the advice.

" Joe - thanks for the advice. I thought about such a short or ignition switch problem but without any manual, I was lost.

However, I tried your suggestions this morning. Still dead. Cranks, but no spark. My continuity tester indicates the black/yellow wire is not shorted to ground when disconnected from the ignition switch. The switch terminal is not continuous to ground when in the run position, but is grounded in the off position. So this all seems OK.

I'm still dead. I noticed the "new" power pack I put on yesterday wasn't new. It had obviously been insatlled before. SO I put the original back on. Neither gets it running. How likely is it that they are both dead?

What is the other electronic encapsulated device on top of the engine right next to the power pack?

Any other ideas? I'm still lost....
- Bill "

"Bill.... If that "new&#34

"Bill.... If that "new" powerpack wasn't new, and you had purchased it at a dealership or some other type marine store.... I would assume that somebody there became confused or was tricked, and made the mistake of putting a used faulty powerpack back in stock. Personally I would try another pack that I was absolutely sure was new and operational before checking any farther. I know that some (even I) would refer to that as being a parts replacer rather than being a mechanic..... but it is the shortest route between two points so to speak. A case of using a component as a piece of test equipment.

The other item you speak of, if it has a rather large red wire leading from it to the starter solenoid.... that would be a Voltage Regulator & Rectifier Assy.

Joe"

" OK, I agree that the next lo

" OK, I agree that the next logical step will be to find another new power pack. The trouble is finding one in rural Oklahoma. The dealer I bought this last one from is a legitimate business, but just a little hole in the wall outfit.

Other than the black/yellow wire, can you say what the other wires should be doing and show on my voltmeter or continuity tester ? "

"Bill....I don't have a ma

"Bill....I don't have a manual in front of me, just drawing from memory....

The wires leading from the charge coil assy that throws AC voltage to the pack... Brown wire & Brown/Orange wire (or Brown/Yellow). At cranking, speed, with the voltmeter leads between those two wires, the voltage should be 150v or higher. The ohm reading between them should be 560 ohms, plus or minus 25. There should be no ohm reading (shorts) between either wire and ground.

The sensor leads (no meter lead to black). meter leads between each colored lead and white should be 40 ohms, plus or minus 10.

Is there a number on that powerpack? If so, let me know what it is and I'll check to see if I have a new one left in stock.

Joe"

" Joe, I really appreciate you

" Joe, I really appreciate your taking time with me on this. I am running down to a Tulsa dealer who claims to have a new power pack. I will let you know if it works later tonight. If not, I'll be poking around with my VOM meter - Bill "

" Joe, I have some news. I got

" Joe, I have some news. I got a new power pack, installed it and motor still didn't work. But while I was at the Jimmy Houston Marine store in Tulsa, I got a service manual. I followed all the diagnostics for troubleshooting "no spark at any plugs". Stop circuit checked OK. Charge coil output was 175V (which is a little lower than the 250V the book says)- but at least that should fire the plugs. But here's the big news (I think): The timer sensor coil test showed zero volts output while cranking. There are 5 pins, and it is not clear which one is the common one to check vs the others, but I checked all combinations and still got zero volts. Then the book says to do a resistance check. There is supposed to be 40 ohms between each pin. I got 40 ohms only between one pair of pins. All other combinations had infinite ohms. The book then says to check for continuity to ground at each pin. There is no continuity to ground at any pin - so this is confusing.

Does all this make any sense? I guess I need to get a new timer sensor coil? "

" (Sensors - Timer Base&#4

" (Sensors - Timer Base)On voltage, black would have to be common. On ohms, the common would be white. My reply above dated July 4, 9:53pm; how does that compare with that manual?

Joe "

" Joe, I was a real dodo head,

" Joe, I was a real dodo head, and read the manual incorrectly. My motor has the optical sensor ignition timing, not the coil sensor timing. I was reading the pins on the optical sensor plug as if they were the coil sensor!! Duh !! So now I have tested everything I can test with my VOM . The optical sensor is beyond me. "

" Joe Reeves, if you're st

" Joe Reeves, if you're still out there. here's how this finally resolved: After following all the checks you suggested and the service manual I bought, everything checked OK. The only thing left was the optical ignition timing sensor. That is not something the normal boat owner can test. It is one of those "take it to the dealer" parts. So I begged and pleaded and found a dealer in Tulsa - Jimmy Houston Marine - that would take it in short order. Sure enough, that was it. I ran it on the lake yesterday . "

"Bill... Yep, still here. Glad

"Bill... Yep, still here. Glad you finally found the problem and have it resolved. Looks like that old saying is really true.... "Sophistication breeds problems". Hope you have trouble free boating for many moons <grin>.

Joe"