Volvo 270 Stern Drive Issues

"Boat: 1982 Bayliner 19' C

"Boat: 1982 Bayliner 19' Capri

Engine: Volvo AQ125A (tired and old!)

Stern Drive: Volvo 270

After getting the engine to run well, we had some decent times in the boat. However, a higher pitched whine started to develop and it's gradually become louder. As far as I can tell, it emanates from the rear of the engine bay (closest to the transom). It varies with engine speed regardless of whether the drive is in forward, neutral, or reverse. It is not dependent on engine temperature either - from the second the boat is started, the noise begins. It does not go away with higher engine speeds.

I checked the oil in the drive and it is murky white in color. I'm not sure that the oil has ever been changed. I'll be changing it later today (have to find an impact wrench with a flat head bit as the oil drain plug won't budge).

Also, we have one other problem associated with the drive. After giving the boat slight throttle in forward speed, the boat drive propels the boat decently. However, after a few seconds and often depending on engine speed (usually happens around 1900 rpm), we'll feel a hard thump and the boat surges forward for a split second - engine speed does not change.

I was starting suspect the manual trim mechanism, as the the catch does not engage when in reverse of forward. When reversing, the drive bounces up and down.

Due to recent storms, our peer broke and the transom rotated towards a rocky shore. The prop is pretty dinged up and I suspect the rocks had their way with the lower unit, but this isn't much damage that would suggest this.

Any and all help is much appreciated. The end of the season is drawing near, but we're trying to get the most out of this boat as possible. Thanks in advance."

"Adam,instead of killing yours

"Adam,instead of killing yourself getting @ drain plug,do you have access to an oil vacuum pump-out.It works through dip stick.

I don't believe you have a mechanical trim.The VP 270 was made to go up or down.Not trim.

I bet the retaining pawls for reverse are worn and or the spring,VP #814396 is broken.

In the future think about getting Pertronix.I too have an '82 125 AQ and I had to fiddle w/points for the umpteenth time.(I have Pertronix just haven't had time to install).Does anyone out there know how to stop copper tube going into nylon elbow from leaking???I've worked on this much.That's what's fouling my points!

Adam good luck I'm sure you'll get great advice from this forum(I usually have!!!)And thanks for letting me add to your thread."

I suggest you inspect the u-jo

I suggest you inspect the u-joints and bellhousing bearing.

"Murky white oil indicates the

"Murky white oil indicates there is water in the oil. Some people feel a little water is 'allowable' but I disagree. Over time water in the oil will corrode the gear faces and bearings and lead to failure.

I think the noise you are hearing and the water in the drive are related. I had the same exact thing happen to me. I suspect that your driveline bellows is torn allowing water to enter both the upper gearcase of the drive and the gimball bearing.

The first thing I would do is pull the boat and drain the outdrive oil. Capture the drive oil in a clean pan and inspect it for any metal filings.

Replacing the gimball bearings is not difficult, but it requires removing the engine and can be quite time consuming. The good news is that it enables you to fully inspect your powertrain and check / replace many components.

After replacing the gimball bearings I would separate the lower unit from the drive and inspect the gears. I would also remove the upper gearcase and check those out as well.

If you caught the water infiltration in time there is an excellent chance that damage has not yet occured to the gears.

As for the banging of the engine when in gear it sounds like the retaining pawl is out of adjustment.

Check out my post from June and you will find some excellent advice from people in this forum. Also check out the schematics posted on Volvo's site. Taking apart these drives and engines is far less difficult than it sounds and the resources available in this forum are invaluable.

Post: http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/82007.shtml

Volvo Penta online schematics:

http://volvopentastore.com/AQ125/dm/category_id.342834--cart_id.676502583--sessi on_id.843513132--store_id.366--view_id.342834--search_type.category

Gimball bearing, parts # 70-74

http://volvopentastore.com/CONNECTING_COMPONENTS/dm/store_id.366--session_id.843 513132--cart_id.676502583--category_id.333011--list_time.1190409704--view_id.325 843

I would also highly recommend picking up a Seloc manual if you do not already own one.

Good luck!"

"I don't think you will be

"I don't think you will be able to squeeze out any more boat time this season. The engine has to be pulled. As explained above, the primary shaft bearing (inside the bellhousing) is probably at fault. This bearing should be greased lightly each year. There is a cup or zirk to allow this. Two usual sources of "whine" are the tensioner pulley which is at the front of the engine and the bearing. Occasionally, a bad alternator will also cause this sound.

It would not be unheard of for this bearing to die because of water through the bellows, even though it is protected by a seal. However, if not greased over several years it could act up simply by running dry. Whether water can enter the drive through the bellows is questionable but if the shaft O ring and bearing seal in the upper unit is bad it could happen. Normally, if water enters the bellows the U joints go bad and the drive will knock loudly accompanied by vibration as the drive is turned away from straight ahead. It would be unusual for everything except the U joint to go south. That is so because if the bellows is leaking the U joint is probably six to eight years old and hasn't been serviced in that time. You see, these are usually serviced when the bellows is changed. The U joint should be serviced at five years. Thus, it may have failed because of water intrusion or age. If it hasn't it is questionable whether water has flooded the area inside the bellows although I must say that this is a common problem which may occur for various reasons. Sources of water intrusion into the drive are often related to bad oil seals at the prop shaft or the shift lever under the outdrive cover.

A large flat blade attached to a ratchet should be the right stuff to remove the drain plug. I made one of these and don't know if they are available over the counter. A hand impact wrench might work if the right blade tip is found for it. Don't use a small blade for obvious reasons.

It might not be a good idea to run that drive in the tilt position, I don't know."

"Well, here's where I am a

"Well, here's where I am at. This isn't my boat; it's my brothers. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and very handy with cars (well, German stuff gives me a headache, but I work around it...), so I do his boat work for him as well.

The drive still whines. It hasn't been getting worse, but it hasn't got better.

The shift pawl mechanism is somewhat FUBAR. I'm betting it's a busted spring, but the problem is getting better for some reason.

New problem: hydraulic drive lift is busted. I haven't looked into much, but I can't imagine it's cheap. Currently, two ropes hold the drive up. If I had to guess, I'd say the hydraulic actuator is shot. Where the boat is and where it is used, there's no need to lift the drive.

l've found that I can source a used drive anywhere from $200-$500. I'll admit, I'm totally new to stern drives and not exactly sure how they work. Is it a direct drive or is it more like a torque converter? Either way, the drive still performs great with the whine. There's not much time left in the season. If I am going to pull the engine and the drive, I'd opt to rebuild/replace the engine and possibly upgrade to a 280 drive. So, if the drive can last 10 or more hours (which I have a feeling it will), then I'd be happy and content with working on it over the winter."

"Adam, the Seloc or Clymer boo

"Adam, the Seloc or Clymer books are available and not too expensive. The outdrive is not hydraulic and does not use planetary gears or anything of the like. It is built somewhat like a sychromesh manual transmission. Well, Volvo calls the system "cone clutch". At least, before taking the boat out again, change the drive oil and grease the cup located on top of the bellhousing. When shopping for a replacement drive make sure it has 2.15 ratio. Good luck."