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25 johnson runnin joe but

M

mark e tilton

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" ok joe....
that 25rl72r is


" ok joe....
that 25rl72r is now running,,,,
but seems to be running a little rich,,,,maybe even to rich,
at low end it wants to run un even,,,
doest seem to want to establish a idle,,
and once in a while will spit or kick
in low idle and some times will kill the motor
already been through the carb,,and im experienceing some problems with my gas tank holding pressure ,,wants to leak even after replacing the gasket,,,, gonna replace it
( the tank) but dont think that is my low end running problem,,,,,any suggestions????

thanks joe,

mark,,,, "
 
"That fuel tank isn't desi

"That fuel tank isn't designed to hold pressure. Air must enter it in order for the fuel pump to draw out fuel. I suspect that you're seeing fuel leak out around the rectangular fuel assy fitting that attaches to the tank with four (4) screws. If you see fuel leaking there, look closer and you'll probably see that it is leaking either at the plug on fuel connector itself... or at one of the two small pins (valves) that stick out of it. If so, either replace the plug on fuel connector or/and have that fuel assy fitting rebuilt with new O" Rings. Any leak here at the tank causes the fuel pump to draw air and results in a lean setting.

Other than that, you've overlooked something in the carburetor, or it's out of adjustment on the slow speed setting (needle valve), or the throttle is opening too soon in relation to the timing (synchronization)... The throttle must just start to open when the center of the carb roller lines up with the scribe mark on the cam that it rolls against.

Suggestion.... Scroll down and enter your reply below so as to keep this conversation in one area. As it stands, we have a dozen different conversations going on about the same engine/problem. Sort of makes it hard to back track if needed.

Joe
"
 
" ok joe,will keeep it going h

" ok joe,will keeep it going here,
thanks,,,
i dont know how to thank you,,,,will some day
will get in touch soon,,,,
about that,,,
as for more details ,here we go,,,,
it is defit running way to rich,,,looks like a mosquitoe killer,, seems to load up and then no top end when going slow to fast,then let idle a few then slow to fast cleans up again till it loads up again,,repeat process,, havent put it under a good load yet ,,only in barrel 50 to 1
as mixed hate to cut that down any more,,,
also gonna get better plugs,,,the two sets i have now have seen a long trip (championj6c) ,,,,how about ngk or
split fires? and the setting (plugs)
also i made sure that the throttle shaft was not egged out you know by blowing some either
on shaft to see if it speed up ,,ok there,,,,see lots of that on the other end,,,
\ i take for granted from area dealerships that the intial setting is 1 and 1/2 turn i beleive that this is low speed?there is only one needle,
main jet is fixed,,,, maybe thinking that crankcase is still full of gas (maybe) and is having a ruff time off it,,,,,also should that primer bulb stay stiff while running? also replaced the male fuel connector (on tank) and cant seem to get any thing to seal them threads the gas just keeps eating it even mr. gasket suggestion please,,not concerned right now, with the tank drawing air lean is what im needing now,,,,
adjustment on low speed setting i have it at 11/2
turns out can lean it all the way in and seems to straiten up but is almost all the way in,, i know iknow there is a problem some were else,,the end of the needle is not mashed made sure of that,also have cleaned the worst of carbs,it wasnst that bad,, bread tied all holes in venturi (3)and seemed to be no problems there,,new boal float and needle so should be alright there pressure wise,,the rest in my opinion is fixed junk,,,all holes are clean there but will go over it again tommorow doesnt take that long to tear down,holes also in fixed jet were bread tie clean, will look at the great tipon the roller and cam alighn ment thank you ,,(but out of light tonight ) darn! i just made it shut close on the back butterfly shaft and tightend the screw wasnt sure were that was supposed to be after i rebuilt the carb,,, how about them reeds although i have seldom seen any problems with them maybe a fluke of dirt some how gets in then and holds open,,dunno,,,exhaust port arent glogged cleaned them when replacing baffle gaskets, kicking about 120 lbs compression in each cylinder also not getting any water in ther any more,,,,new head gasket new points cond,new upper main bearing seal,complete carb kit, almost there ,,more suggestions please,,


your a winner joe,and god will shine
on you some day,,,
runnin rich,,
mark,,,,,,,, "
 
"The 50/1 mixture is what you

"The 50/1 mixture is what you want to stick to. DO NOT lower that mixture. Stick to the Champion J6C spark plugs. Primer bulb should NOT stay hard when the engine is running, but it should not collapse either.

Your quote of: "adjustment on low speed setting i have it at 1 1/2 turns out can lean it all the way in and seems to straiten up but is almost all the way in,, " leads me in the direction of the carburetor float to upper carburetor body gaskets.

If that carburetor is asembled properly, turning that S/S needle valve in to a point such as that would kill the engine.

Did you by any chance neglect to install that small neopreme center gasket that goes around the H/S nozzle of the carburetor? If you simply installed the outter body gasket and left that small center gasket off, or installed a worn gasket around that nozzle, that engine will suck fuel directly past that nozzle instead of being routed through the fixed brass H/S jet. That would certainly account for the excessive fuel usage, smoking, etc.

Joe
"
 
" ok joe,,,,
heres were iam a


" ok joe,,,,
heres were iam at....
new tank,great,,,,
new plugs,,,,champion j6c
factory set at about 32,,,,
re corialate roller with cam,,,
the two scribes on the ear lookin piece
put roller in the middle of it,, i was very off
but found to make it worse or not run at all,,,
there are two more scribes on the aluminum above it wouldnt sem to make a difference though,,,took off carb re clean and put back slowly nothing rong there,,,,brown gasket is on main jet on the bottom,,,did notice a open port leading to what looks like the boal just left and down of the slow speed needle put my finger over it and it kills the motor,,,i would assume that it is supposed to be there,,,have to advace the rear butterfly (open ) in comparison to the scribe
to get it to run runs some timesgood open but rich
and will idle some times (most) of the time but will kick and spit and kill its self if rpms are not up,,,when moving back up to full speed it stalls bogs out and takes forever to come back up on the high end,, it cleans up acts like it is starving for gas but the fuel pump is new and
i have no alchoalsoft hoses that will colapse either been ther done that ...its likeit being over welmed by gas needle at 3/4 turn out have to run it lean to get it to run,
by using the throttle grip on the motor and just holding the rear butterfly open,,ican rev the motor or idle it were i want go figure its like the two dont even belong toghter,,,

help!!!
still runnin rich,,,
mark,,,,,,, "
 
"With the center of the carb r

"With the center of the carb roller lined up with the scribe on the cam, the throttle butterfly should be completely closed... and any farther increase of the cam would start to open the throttle.

The small hole on the front of the carb is a vent to the float chamber. Putting your finger on that stops the air flow.... if air can'r get in, fuel can't get out, and the engine dies.

The kicking & spiting back is a indication of a lean carburetor setting...S/S valve being too far in (lean), or the throttle butterfly is opening too soon in relation to the timing/synchronization... the roller to cam scribe mark.

If you still need to screw that S/S needle valve almost all the way in to keep the engine running near idle, either something is not as it should be with the carburetor, the fuel pump diaphram is ruptured, the H/S brass fixed jet has been drilled out or is missing altogether... something of that nature which would allow excessive fuel to enter the crankcase.

I'm out of ideas unless you spot something out of the ordinary.

Joe
"
 
" ok joe,,,,,
i found that sw


" ok joe,,,,,
i found that sweet spot in the cam and carb linkage,runs now ok,,but not gonna brag on it yet,,got a duck hunter here (me)that needs to depend on it to start when it is cold, (very cold on a big lake)took it to the local river ran it good,the more it ran the better it got,,,,got some of that out of there,ok so now,,,when idleing for a while or at slow speed (no wake) when i go to get back into it it wants to hesitate...for a brief moment (1 to 4 seconds)like it is loaded up a little,,
plugs tonight show a brownish color and a first time seen lepord spots on the porcelin in the plugs,,,,,hmmmm,,,, gapped them now at 35
try again tommorow what is the original setting for champion j6c? might try those ngk dont hate me joe,,,,should the motor rev in nuteraul?
cant get mine to do that real well but has good top end still noticing a little main crank case gasket leak (very little) and getting some (little)
blow by in a seal up by the fly wheel, a black lever that works off fly wheel,,a compression release? ok almost there,,,,motor should be re sealed all the way through but gonna run it for now,,,,,,

suggestion for heitation and plug setting please

thanks joe,,
mark,,,,,,, "
 
"Hesitation would be caused by

"Hesitation would be caused by that carb roller opening the throttle just slightly too soon. Check to see that the throttle butterfly isn't moving before the roller lines up with that scribe mark. It could also be caused by the slow speed needle valve being slightly lean... back it out about a 1/8 turn to see if that helps.

The black lever at the flywheel/manual starter is a lock out lever. The purpose of which is to lock the manual starter and prevent you from cranking th engine over when it's in gear.

Set the s/plug gap at .030 . The s/plugs running brown are okay, however those lepoard spots you mentioned aren't normal.... might still be a slight water problem. Keep your eye on that.

You can rev a engine in neutral but not to an excessive rpm. There's no back pressure in that situation and you can develop a runaway engine, in which case before you could get it under control, a connecting rod might exit the block sideways.

Joe
"
 
" ok joe,,,,
gonna take it to


" ok joe,,,,
gonna take it to the lake tommorow,
try that 1/8 turn back( very slightly )
like to eventually reseal it all ,,,
even welch plugs,,,know some of the performance is from use (losing crank case pressure) is just the way it is,,,
a night mare with saws when the value is under
a 1oo daollars ,,add labor for just tear down,well you know,,,, any ways,,,that leapord is showing up in top cylinder,any other way to get in there besides muffler and head???
still feel iam advacing roller plate past scribes
to compensate for another problem, of cousre that is why we are all in here aint it!

i let you know how it did
around sunday,,,,

have a good weekend joe,,,
mark,,,, "
 
HI JOE
HAVE A RATHER OLD JOH


HI JOE
HAVE A RATHER OLD JOHNSON 35hp OUTBOARD. WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ITS POSSABLE TO CHARGE BATTERY FROM IT. THERE SEEMS TO BE A KIND OF SOCKET UNDERNEATH THE STEARING ARM.
THANKS PHIL
 
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