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75 hp Gamefisher

joe

Regular Contributor
" What year is my 7.5 Gamefish

" What year is my 7.5 Gamefisher? Model number 217-585831 and S/N 9A-247932...


Thanks,

Joe "
 
I have a sears Gamefisher 7.5

I have a sears Gamefisher 7.5 outboard
Model # 225 591 750 serial # 1627
(the model # may be 225 581 750)

Does anyone know what year this is?
Thanx
 
"I have gamefisher 7.5 model 2

"I have gamefisher 7.5 model 217-585931. I need to buy a gas cap, sears part number 110575. Does anyone know a source for this part?"
 
"Hi just purchased an all gree

"Hi just purchased an all green gamefisher model 217-585810 almost new condition. If it has been started 5 times I would be amazed. My question is this. First, I have never seen an all green gamefisher? Secondly does anyone have any idea of year of manufactre? Is this water or air cooled and do I need to do anything before I try to start this motor?
Thanks
Gary"
 
"Your motor is a 1978. See [u

"Your motor is a 1978. See http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/Model21759980-585861.htm
It has an air cooled engine, but leg is water cooled to cool the exhaust.
The strange thing with these motors is that the service manual (and any owners manuals I have for my air-cooled Eska/Gamfisher motors) says to use TC-W oil. I currently use TC-W3 oil in my similar engines, and have had no issues. Make sure you DO NOT start it out of water as the engine does depend on the exhaust being cooled, plus you'll melt your water pump impeller as well."
 
"I have a game fisher M# 217-5

"I have a game fisher M# 217-586751 any body know what year it might be? It will run with carb starter, but when I hook up the gas it just dies out. HELP!!!!"
 
justin..i was having the same

justin..i was having the same problem with my ted williams 7.5hp and i come to find that the reed valves behind the carb plate was rusted out..i'm no boat motor expert but this may be a place to look..i removed the carb and cleaned it out real good..and made some reeds out of 8 thousands shim stock from a set of filler gauges and the carb is no longer choking itself out and the motor runs good as ever..good luck
 
Justin- that remote tank must

Justin- that remote tank must be close to the motor and as high as it can be as that tiny fuel pump did't pull fuel from very far away.

Also- the chrysler fuel connector used there liked to leak at the "O" rings. Put a clear fuel line from the carb to the selector valve. You may see bubbles.

Also that onboard tank has got to shut off before the remote will feed fuel- When you change the fuel line- blow thru it towards the onboard tank and see if it leaks.

When you change fuel lines- cut them off and then slit them with a razor to get them off the barbs. Those barbs are thin di-cast and break off if you just stare at them hard.
 
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