9394 40 HP Force with remote idlesruns great until you give it full throttlethen cutsstalls out

"I have a 40 HP Force on a Pon

"I have a 40 HP Force on a Pontoon boat that I bought from a neighbor 3 years ago. I live on a freshwater lake. It has run great but this year it started cutting out/stalling at full throttle. When I quickly cut back the throttle it would run fine and I could cruise around at slow speeds but when I give it full throttle...either fast or slowly it will run for a while but then cut/stall out until I quickly pulled back the throttle to nuetral. Then it will run fine at lower speeds and I can cruise around. Finally, when I was out with my wife and 2 year old daughter we left a reaturant that was on the lake and it cut out and stalled for good and I could not get it running.

I have checked the fuel pump and filter and have plenty of fuel flow. I removed the carb and when I removed it, it had a little water in the fuel (milky looking). I had the carburator rebuilt this week by a mechanic and he said the jets were clogged and was probably the problem. I bought a new tank, replaced the gas and added stabil. I reinstalled the carb, replaced the inline fuel filter. I set the idle speed adjustment per the spec (1 turn out from light seat)and took the boat out to test...it did the same @#%$#! thing. I am very frustrated. Anyone have any tips??"

"Just to let you know that the

"Just to let you know that the engine started fine and idled fine, ran good at the lower speed but when I gave it full throttle...bamb!! cut out again just like before the carb work..just wanted to clarify this point"

"If it is cutting out immediat

"If it is cutting out immediately when it hits a certain "spot" in the throttle, could possibly be a bad spot in your trigger, works fine at low speed but as you increase throttle, the trigger rotates to advance the timing, if it hits a "dead spot" in the trigger, you won't get spark. Check for loose or damaged/shorted out trigger wires, they are thin and brittle, and have a reputation for breaking."

"Brian,

Thanks for the quic

"Brian,

Thanks for the quick response. If one of the wires on the trigger is broken can the wire be repaired/replaced? or does the trigger have to be replace?

Funny, I was just reading a post from Graham Lamb in August to someone on a 87' 50HP force with no spark in one cylinder saying:

"As both (stator and trigger) of these parts, although still available, are incredibly expensive, if either is the problem and you can not find a used part, I would seriously consider replacing the engine.
This is a 1987 (Force, discontinued and losing support with no dealer network anymore)model and it just wouldn't be worth throwing 500 bucks in parts alone at - in my opinion..."

Do you think this be the same situation with a 93/94 40HP Force?"

"Greg, I'll step in here -

"Greg, I'll step in here - it's possible. I would test the trigger, although they are usually fairly durable.

The stator could be the issue, particularly if it has both low and high speed windings.

Your's being an early/mid 90's, there's a good chance that it had that style of stator (which Merc has used for years - although, I don't have a manual for your model, so can't confirm).

The "2 stage" stators work as follows - the low speed winding (which works until about 2000/2500 rpms) produces the ignition power at idle plus a little bit.

Then the high speed winding takes over for the rest of the power band.

So you could have a condition where the stator is working fine at idle/very low speed but is putting out insuffient voltage above 2500 rpms to even charge the coils.

A couple of simple resistance tests can let you know. Perhaps someone can post the test proceedure and specs for your motor and an ohm meter will give you a quick answer...

In the case of your motor, the stator was under 150 bucks, but is no longer available from Merc. So if it is the problem, you will have to look to the "used market"...."

"I don't see a resistance

"I don't see a resistance spec for a 1987 40hp in my book, but a 35 should be 1.0-2.0 ohms. I show all hp force being less than 1.0 ohms resistance.

Disconnect the battery

check resistance between the 2 stator wires resistance should be within the spec range (unfortonately I don't have a spec range for your exact motor as stated above)

If the stator is still attached to the powerhead, check continuity between each stator wire and ground, if resistance is out of range, or continuity exists, the stator <u>may</u> be to blame

trigger can't be tested this way, you need a DVA meter to test that."