understand...i would suspect the Yamaha lowers aren't much different than the Mercury ones...the lash shouldn't change is you keep the shims i there original locations and reuse the same bearing...
Type: Posts; User: makomark
understand...i would suspect the Yamaha lowers aren't much different than the Mercury ones...the lash shouldn't change is you keep the shims i there original locations and reuse the same bearing...
american outboard motors in cordova, MD for something that old...
Never done a Yamaha but a few Mercury lowers. We always stripped them down, usually because they were inspected to ensure the gears/bearings/shafts were serviceable (typically after the impact the...
bow sprits (bowsprits) are found on sailing vessel...
ITs too small to be a pulpit...I'd suspect it was called a mount for the anchor (or bow) roller.
I'd suspect the failure was due to the...
I'd say your best bet is to contact one of the houses that specialize in 'restoring' Chris Craft engines...they should be able to tell you which casting number(s) were original...if that's what you...
sounds to me like the 'starboard' engine has had its heads changed at some point in time.
Assuming the engines were 'matched' at some point (& haven't been altered/rebuilt), the one with the...
if the reverse rotation engine has the SAME timing tab as the standard rotation engine, then you want to use the AFTER side to set the initial timing. The 'bad' part is that there usually aren't many...
sounds like hydraulic steering...??? which brand??
my guess would be a pressure leak. if nothing is visible, I'd suspect an internal leak in the cylinder.
the gear is usually serviceable...the usual wear concerns are the bushings/shaft (slop from wear) and the advance mechanism (wear/corrosion/fatigue). the factory service manual should have service...
you really want a marine grade part.
Conversion kit is vague. typically, the only option is a 'breakerless' upgrade which deletes the points. These are great if of high quality design. the concern...
If you disconnect the battery, you should be fine.
if you opt to disconnect it, be gentle with the connectors and avoid touching the pins...
what you labeled as 'cheesy' is Rochester OEM, and was used "as is" by all of the OEM marine engine builders that used a quadrajet on their GM production engines....and the airhorn looks like the pic...
I'd suggest you take another look....
If the cooling system is full, the T-stat should be wet. If you remove it, you will have the opportunity for a spill, so draining a couple quarts would be prudent. as far as flushing the closed side...
there are 'HP calculators' that use the dimensions of your boat....better off using one of them ...
they used to be available thru the marine power www site....really doesn't matter as 1994 would have been the first year where most every (gm) standard production unit had a MEFI-1 controller....your...
I wouldn't say API is "better" but I haven't used it. the marketing literature shows a bunch of graphic shots - some may prefer it over numerical data.
All of the factory manuals I've accumulated...
could be a stuck/leaking injector...I'd start with a good inspection of the TBI unit...if its leaking, you should see the drip, especially after shutdown...
if the injectors are fine, I'd get a...
I've never seen a publish spec for prop shaft axial end play...as long as the gear backlash settings are in spec, the axial play shouldn't matter...
Rinda is the industry standard....
Unless you are in a shop and resell a lot of API product, I think the annual fee makes the choice obvious, assuming they'd sell you one...