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1984 115hp and i wanna use Deep Cycle

C

comet424

Regular Contributor
hi I have a 115 1984 engine and I wanted to use my deep cycle battery to run on it.. but I seen now off the page for replacement rectifiers/voltage regulator I can not use a deep cycle battery.. why not

and the I have the mini kota MC2 dc battery charger wanna use with..

so if I cant use it... can I use deep cycle on my 1987 mercy 200hp outboard.?? and If not what my options
and to charge a deep cycle so I can use it for my trolling motor


and is there a way to mount an alternator to the flywheel teeth.. so I can charge like a car engine
 
Deep cycles are designed to be heavily discharged before recharging. So, as volts go down amperage draw goes up. I think this is probably the reason why deep cycle batteries are not to be used, as trying to start a motor on a deeply discharged battery might fry the regulator/rectifier.
 
ah ok i was told i could use a deep cycle as its a flooded cell battery

but not a AGM or dry cell battery or maintance free.. not sure what a dry cell is.. dont know how they damage the rectifier..
 
You can use a maintenance free battery but you must be running high amp draw appliances when the engine is running to use the extra voltage produced. If you keep the charging voltage below 15 volts it will be just fine.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
You can use a maintenance free battery but you must be running high amp draw appliances when the engine is running to use the extra voltage produced. If you keep the charging voltage below 15 volts it will be just fine.
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oh so maintance free batteries when full doesnt signal the rectifier to stop charging and thats how it burns out the rectifer..
and thought the charging voltage is always under 15 at a 14.4v with the voltage regulator/rectifier isnt that what thats for?
 
Installing a volt meter is always a good idea that way you can monitor the charging system real time. In most cases you can shut it down before it turns into a real expensive repair or know when to get the hell off the water.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Installing a volt meter is always a good idea that way you can monitor the charging system real time. In most cases you can shut it down before it turns into a real expensive repair or know when to get the hell off the water.
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ya next year ill probably get a Faira volt meter gauge for the dash. least ill know if its charging or discharging etc
for now its just a mulitimeter lol
 
Be a good winter project you can add a fuse block for adding appliances easily. Maybe pull a house circuit if not present to keep accys separate from the ignition.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Be a good winter project you can add a fuse block for adding appliances easily. Maybe pull a house circuit if not present to keep accys separate from the ignition.
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what you mean pull a house circuit..

it has a 6 fuse panel on the dash i think for lights and bilge pump may add a radio

the fishing boat i have has messy wiring but thats because i didnt wanna shorten the cables so i tried to coil up best i can lol and for fuse panel since i had to work upside down and in tight spot couldnt do a nice wiring job neck was killing me... probably would been better if i ripped out all the wiring and started from scratch... fixing old boats and bad wiring ahead of time i just made more of a mess lol
 
A house circuit is two heavy guage wires directly to the battery from the fuse block and grounding bar. You want a fuse at the battery for positive to the master power switch and fuse block. Do your lights work with the ignition switch? Spend the time to clean up all the wiring so you dont have to mess with it out there.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
A house circuit is two heavy guage wires directly to the battery from the fuse block and grounding bar. You want a fuse at the battery for positive to the master power switch and fuse block. Do your lights work with the ignition switch? Spend the time to clean up all the wiring so you dont have to mess with it out there.
Click to expand...

dash lights and front and back lights work without the inigiton switch
 
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