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good01

Regular Contributor
How do you guys in the cold states get these Johnsons running. It is sixty today it tried for a minute and now just turns over. Does not even try. I just had vro all ignition parts replaced. I do the key thing but it just spins. What am I doing wrong? J225VXSIF
 
Why all those ignition parts ??-----Are you pushing the key in and holding it in WHILE cranking it over ??-----Hard starting can also be due to a bad battery -----Have it load tested even if new.-----Take starter apart for inspection and OHM check on armature.------Slow cranking also leads to a no start condition.----I would not consider 60 F to be cold.----That motor should start right up.-----Up to you to do some trouble shooting.
 
I had a charging issue and they changed the stator and rectifier, starter also batteries. I have changed the batteries again because I have access to batteries. It was over 2 grand in repairs and only have been able to get it running 1 time sense. I will go pull the starter and replace it. I have another new one. But I will ohm this one because it is new. Any thing you can suggest checking I will check. But I know when I call tomorrow they are going to tell me it was just cold.
 
Nope----That motor has no issues starting in 60 degree weather , if in good condition !!-----Are you pushing the key in and holding it in for starting , yes or no ?----Check battery cables too.
 
Yes sir I am holding the key in. I will check battery cables to. I will also let you know what they say tomorrow.
 
Is the electric primer valve opening ?----Have you looked at the FILTER in the electric primer valve ?----I repeat , this motor in good condition will start right up in 60 degree weather.----Cars start in colder weather don't they !
 
Yes I did check the filter and operation of primer. It was working. Also lever is in the right position. Engine is in great condition for its age. It is a 2001 and has only 490 hours as of now. Good even compression. I have even taken a bore scope and checked cylinders and tops of pistons. Cylinders still show cross hatch pattern. And yes cars do start in very cold temps. I will let you know what I figure out. Thank you for pointing me in a direction.
 
Too cold at 60 degrees? You need to find a better shop. If you know how to set up a video clip, let us see how fast it's cranking over. That has been mentioned by Racer in post #2.....slow cranking just doesn't work with these. If it's warmer out, things are more limber and it could be spinning a little faster, enough to start.
 
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Timguy I will do that this weekend. also spark test. I am seeing if they will take care of it because I just spent 2 grand on it. I dont want them to say well you have been messing with it. But the video and spark test I will certainly do. Thanks everyone.
 
For 2 grand you should get alot more than lame excuses, my friend. How's the grease look in the lower unit?
 
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The lower unit grease looks good. I change that twice a year. I do a lot of running long distances and it has just become a habit. I agree on the cost. I am more unhappy then it sounds. But I will do all the checks that you guys have suggested. I just cant do them until the weekend.
 
Yes, good simple maintenance is to keep a close eye on the lower unit lube. Bottom end repairs can really cut in to your, "nights out with the wife" fund. I charge plenty for lower unit welding and overhaul....I call that part of the outboard the " business end"!
 
No Sir, I have had it for 3 years now. This is the same engine you helped me with the temp sensors putting me in limp mode. Once you get it running I mean its a Johnson it will run all day until I shut it off. Even after that it will start right back up. Timguy, I am a former racer and I am always changing fluids. I am proud to say after 15 years of racing I never blew a engine. I changed oil and trans and rear fluids each week. During the summer I have no trouble starting it.
 
There is no reason for this motor not to start in cooler weather.----You need to list your starting procedure step by step.----Some might argue , but we think you are missing a step or two.
 
I put the the engine in the water. Pump primer till hard. Go to the throttle and put it about a quarter the way down. I then push the key in and count to 5 and turn the key to start while I am still pushing the key in for another 5 count and release While still cranking. And if if does not start I repeat making sure primer bulb is hard.
 
There is absolutely no reason to hold the key in BEFORE cranking.---It does nothing !----It is a valve and the electric primer is not a pump.------Hold key in while cranking till motor fires up.----You might replace the wee filter inside the electric primer.----Part #332365 for filter.
 
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Ok, I will stop that then. I will try that in the next couple days. I will pick up a filter. Thank you for the part number. I may try to run down after work if I get out early enough and give that a try. I have held the key in while cranking but I will go start to finish with what you suggested and see.
 
I was able to get down tonight and try it. Air temp had dropped to 35 and I went through my start up routine and did what racerone told me to do. It took me about 12 tries but it did fire up. I am still going to do some of the trouble shooting that was recommended to see why it takes so many tries. I have ordered a filter for the primer and I will check the spark making sure it jumps 7/16. I can not thank you guys enough for your help and suggestions
 
If you have to crank for 15 / 20 seconds there is something wrong with the motor !!--And you will damage the starter !----The thing should start right up.---Are you pushing key in as needed when engine falters when cold.-----You say pump is new , but check fuel pressure to the electric primer valve.
 
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Post #1 says that --" all ignition parts have been replaced "---But all the cranking and hoping may have damaged the starter already.-----So test for spark with all plugs in place.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" on a test device , yes or no ?
 
I will do that Saturday, I have a new starter and can have this one checked. I will check spark Saturday also. Again thanks for the help.
 
Fact-----If you take the starter apart that is on it now you can learn a lot.----Do an inspection and ohm check on the armature ( infinity from shaft to commutator ).----Only by gathering and posting exact facts can you get to the bottom of this starting issue.---Saying that all ignition parts have been replaced means nothing.-----You need to establish / tell us if you have good spark or not.-----I repeat , this motor in good condition should start right up.----No such thing as that motor not wanting to start in 60 F weather.
 
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Ok, I guess old dogs can learn new tricks. Went down yesterday and did the starting procedure that you explained to me. It worked. Only took me 2 tries to get it started. Engine is running better then it has in a while and is charging like it should. By the way on the spark test it would jump a 3/8 gap and had a nice blue snap. Again thank you all for the help.
 
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