Logo
FULL SITE MENU

water in cylinders and oil - MerCruiser 5.0 MPI -- Need help finding culprit

P

ptudozer

Member
All even # cylinders (2,4,6,8) had water along with lots of water in oil on port engine
It's 2006 MerCruiser 5.0 MPI serial # OW614502 with 425 hrs -- the boat is Chaparral 290 Signature with Twin 5.0
Engines are raw water cooled (sea water). Oil changed at the end of every season. We are located in Panama City Florida. Boat is stored indoors climate controlled. no issues with freezing temps.
In 2018 lost power on port engine with 300 Hrs, turns out the culprit was bravotis which caused low water flow and hotspots which damaged a couple valves
Had the heads rebuilt, new gaskets, bolt, etc. Manifolds were replaced at 270 hrs a few months prior to the rebuild.
Has run great for the past 6 years. ALWAYS rinsed after EVERY use. No issues starting up.

Today we went to the Gulf Coast Air Show - 15 miles each way. Had a bit of a restart issue for the trip back, took a couple tries to get it to start.
Ran flawlessly all the way back. Also, I installed a SmartCraft system and a Simrad Screen in 2019 so I can monitor the data on each engine. Temperature was the usual 156 degrees with 45-60 oil pressure depending on RPM. and also, the usual 10-11 PSI on the coolant
Then we pull into the marina and cruise in at minimal speed and low RPM. As we tied to the dock, the port engine stopped and would not start. I tried twice, all I heard was a clunk like a hammer hitting the oil pan.
As soon as we go her home, started pulling the plugs. Water immediately started coming out as I pulled the plugs on 2,4,6 & 8
When I started suction of the oil the first few seconds it was just clear water followed by milkshake oil. The engine has the oil drain hose that is connected to the oil pan drain, I just connect the oil extractor (vacuum) cannister to the drain hose to drain the oil.
I drained the cooling system. Did not have any fogging oil. so used Seafoam Spray into the spark plug holes, added oil to the engine and manually turned the engine until I was suctioning clear clean oil. Basically, just trying to stop the "Bleeding".
I have not had time to disassemble anything. So here are my questions.
  1. With water in both the cylinders and engine oil, is this a blown gasket or a failed manifold/risers?
  2. What else can I do to this engine until I have time to take it apart, besides the things I already performed (Hopefully didn't make it worst)?
I'm a first-time poster but a long-time follower
Thank you very much for any help.

-
 
When water mixes with oil for what ever reason, it takes about 4 complete oil and filter changes (running engine to temp for about 15 minutes between changes) to clear all the water out of the system. For this activity use cheap oil and filter and if oil stays clear the on final oil change use recommended oil and filter.

Typically when a head gasket goes you would find water in one or two adjacent cylinders.

Typically when water is in all four of one bank/side that would indicate back flow from exhaust into the exhaust manifold and into the heads exhaust ports which then finds it way into the cylinders.

Now if a head gasket blew out in such a way that it flooded the exhaust port of one/two cylinders the water could end up in the manifold as they all blend together in inside the manifold itself then that could cause the same condition as a back flow condition. NOTE: water mixes with the exhaust only at the exit point of the elbow, Like the last 3-4 inches of the elbow casting underneath the rubber exhaust boot/hose which is connected to the down tubes.

If the manifold or elbow developed a crack or the gasket blew out between elbow and manifold that allows water into exhaust flow before it exits the elbow this could also be the issue.

First is to do a compression check on bank 2,4,6,8,. Pull all plugs, ground coil wire to a safe ground location. See what the results are.

If compression results look good (all cylinders at or around 150 psi +/- 10%) then the cooling system will need to be looked at. This would require blocking off the exhaust either at end of elbow or remove elbow and install a block off plate on exhaust manifold to elbow surface ( this would be done to both sides at the same time to make exhaust/water a closed system so to speak) then using the incoming water hose from water supply, adapt something to apply pressure or smoke-(using a smoke machine) to system and see if there is any leaks. Although it is more work, if the manifolds and elbows are suspect, it is better to remove and test off the engine where one would have much better control.

This is not an easy job to trouble shoot while in the water especially with two engines. You may be better off to have a good service shop take a look and at least trouble shoot the issue and hopefully it is something simple and not a bad head gasket or worse a cracked head or block.
 
kghost said:
Typically when water is in all four of one bank/side that would indicate back flow from exhaust into the exhaust manifold and into the heads exhaust ports which then finds it way into the cylinders.

Now if a head gasket blew out in such a way that it flooded the exhaust port of one/two cylinders the water could end up in the manifold as they all blend together in inside the manifold itself then that could cause the same condition as a back flow condition. NOTE: water mixes with the exhaust only at the exit point of the elbow, Like the last 3-4 inches of the elbow casting underneath the rubber exhaust boot/hose which is connected to the down tubes.

If the manifold or elbow developed a crack or the gasket blew out between elbow and manifold that allows water into exhaust flow before it exits the elbow this could also be the issue.

First is to do a compression check on bank 2,4,6,8,. Pull all plugs, ground coil wire to a safe ground location. See what the results
Click to expand...
Thank you for all that wealth of information.
In your opinion and experience, do you think the most likely culprit is the Manifold? These are 6 years old. Also forgot to mention, as I was removing the plugs, a few small chunks of rusty metal fell out from under the manifolds.

I was always told that when I would start seeing the engine temps go up and the Coolant (raw water) pressures change that would be the indication manifolds needed to be changed....I'm guessing that is not a true, if in this case it's a failed Manifold.

I assume my best option is to remove the manifolds and inspect them?
If so, what should I look for that would determine they could be the culprit?
Thank you
 
ptudozer said:
Thank you for all that wealth of information.
In your opinion and experience, do you think the most likely culprit is the Manifold? These are 6 years old. Also forgot to mention, as I was removing the plugs, a few small chunks of rusty metal fell out from under the manifolds.

I was always told that when I would start seeing the engine temps go up and the Coolant (raw water) pressures change that would be the indication manifolds needed to be changed....I'm guessing that is not a true, if in this case it's a failed Manifold.

I assume my best option is to remove the manifolds and inspect them?
If so, what should I look for that would determine they could be the culprit?
Thank you
Click to expand...
At 6 years old in salt water first thing would be to inspect the manifolds riser (if used) and elbows and gaskets connecting them. You should have dry joint manifolds on a 2006 that would not leak from the joints into the exhaust passages. You can also test the manifolds by filling with acetone as it will wick through cracks that water cannot.

With an over heat it is possible the head developed cracks or exhaust ports rotted through, but would start with the manifolds and elbows
 
Dieter said:
At 6 years old in salt water first thing would be to inspect the manifolds riser (if used) and elbows and gaskets connecting them. You should have dry joint manifolds on a 2006 that would not leak from the joints into the exhaust passages. You can also test the manifolds by filling with acetone as it will wick through cracks that water cannot.

With an over heat it is possible the head developed cracks or exhaust ports rotted through, but would start with the manifolds and elbows
Click to expand...
The heads were sent to the machine shop, only two valves were replaced. All else according to machine shop was fine. They cleaned and inspected.
Regarding my "Stop the bleeding" steps of spraying SeaFoam into the cylinders, suctioning the oil/water out and replacing with clean oil... what else should I do until I can get this engine repaired... hopefully it's just manifolds and risers.

Another question. Since the engine stopped when it was idling, what are the chances of bent rods or any other internal damage?

Getting ready to go out to the barn and take out the manifolds and do a pressure test on the cylinders.

Anything else I should be doing right now?

Dieter and Kghost thank you for all the information
 
ptudozer said:
The heads were sent to the machine shop, only two valves were replaced. All else according to machine shop was fine. They cleaned and inspected.
Regarding my "Stop the bleeding" steps of spraying SeaFoam into the cylinders, suctioning the oil/water out and replacing with clean oil... what else should I do until I can get this engine repaired... hopefully it's just manifolds and risers.

Another question. Since the engine stopped when it was idling, what are the chances of bent rods or any other internal damage?

Getting ready to go out to the barn and take out the manifolds and do a pressure test on the cylinders.

Anything else I should be doing right now?i

Dieter and Kghost thank you for all the information
Click to expand...
If you pull the plugs spin it to eject the water spray marvel mystery oil, WD, etc into cylinders. Get any water out of the crank case, refill oil and spin it over. If you have a crankcase full of water you can always fill the engine with diesel or kero to get water out and keep corrosion at bay.

If it hydrolocked yes can bend rods and break stuff. I would spin it with plugs out should go smooth and easy by hand or carefully put a socket and ratchet on crank bolt, just don't use a lot of force as you can bust the bolt.
 
Dieter said:
If you pull the plugs spin it to eject the water spray marvel mystery oil, WD, etc into cylinders. Get any water out of the crank case, refill oil and spin it over. If you have a crankcase full of water you can always fill the engine with diesel or kero to get water out and keep corrosion at bay.

If it hydrolocked yes can bend rods and break stuff. I would spin it with plugs out should go smooth and easy by hand or carefully put a socket and ratchet on crank bolt, just don't use a lot of force as you can bust the bolt.
Click to expand...
Yep that is the first thing I did was remove the plugs. The engine spins smoothly manually without any hesitation. I sprayed seafoam instead of WD-40 but I can re-spray with it today a few more times. Last night after removing all the "milky" oil I added another 6 qts of oil (about 2 qts over 3 times) until I got clear oil. I would spin the engine manually after adding the oil and would spray the seafoam into the cylinders.

Do you think I still need to fill it with diesel or just continue with the oil? If I have to fill it with diesel, how much should I add?

Thank you again.
 
Dont over fill oil... adding to much Oil will do more harm than good.
Use reccomended (5 qrts ?) And then run engine.
 
kghost said:
Dont over fill oil... adding to much Oil will do more harm than good.
Use reccomended (5 qrts ?) And then run engine.
Click to expand...
Got it, I have not overfilled, I basically added 6 quarts in three stages. So 2 qts each time, sprayed Seafoam in affected cylinders, manually turned engine a few rotations, then suctioned oil out. at the third time oil was coming out clear and free of water. It was late last night, so it's been sitting for about 15-16 hrs. Getting ready to go out and remove the manifolds.
I just need options to make sure that internal parts DO NOT get worst as I work on trying to figure out what initially caused the water to get into the cylinders and oil pan.
I'm not going to run the engine (with spark plugs) until I figure out what the failure was.

Thank you
 
ptudozer said:
Yep that is the first thing I did was remove the plugs. The engine spins smoothly manually without any hesitation. I sprayed seafoam instead of WD-40 but I can re-spray with it today a few more times. Last night after removing all the "milky" oil I added another 6 qts of oil (about 2 qts over 3 times) until I got clear oil. I would spin the engine manually after adding the oil and would spray the seafoam into the cylinders.

Do you think I still need to fill it with diesel or just continue with the oil? If I have to fill it with diesel, how much should I add?

Thank you again.
Click to expand...
the only reason to fill with diesel is if you had say gallons of water in the engine. I don't know what sea foam spray is I think it is a carbon remover vs WD that is made for Water Displacement. If it is going to sit for a while depending on how long to diagnose and get parts I would put WD or similar in there.

You could also take the hose off the thermostat housing so you can keep water from getting in the engine. With hose disconnected into the bilge you can run the muffs to keep impeller lubed, run the engine for a 30 sec or minute to get water out of cylinders. just dont go too long or all the rubber parts in exhaust will melt

Go to walmart and get Super tech or Rotella cheap oil and 3-4 filters. When you get it running put 3 qts in run it change oil & repeat until it runs clear.
 
Just had a couple hours, went out to the Barn and wrangled the exhaust manifold and riser out of the boat
Took out the brass plugs and cleaned out some of the debris. The last manifolds I removed from the boat 6 years ago were in really bad shape... this one did not seem that bad. But I did find the culprit. I do have a crack in the water jacket of the manifold.
Just made a quick video (link Below) of it, sorry for the quality, but it shows what I think is the reason for the water in the cylinders.
Would this crack under pressure from the cooling system push out enough water to fill all 4 cylinders (2,4,6 & 8) ? Or is there another accomplice here that contributed to all that water in the cylinders and oil?

Thank you all in advance for all the advice and guidance
if this is the main culprit I will be ordering new manifold kits.

Another question, the riser/elbow and 1.7" spacer looked good, and I think I can clean the passageways, do you think I can reuse them or should just go all new manifolds, spacers and risers/elbows?
 
ptudozer said:
Just had a couple hours, went out to the Barn and wrangled the exhaust manifold and riser out of the boat
Took out the brass plugs and cleaned out some of the debris. The last manifolds I removed from the boat 6 years ago were in really bad shape... this one did not seem that bad. But I did find the culprit. I do have a crack in the water jacket of the manifold.
Just made a quick video (link Below) of it, sorry for the quality, but it shows what I think is the reason for the water in the cylinders.
Would this crack under pressure from the cooling system push out enough water to fill all 4 cylinders (2,4,6 & 8) ? Or is there another accomplice here that contributed to all that water in the cylinders and oil?

Thank you all in advance for all the advice and guidance
if this is the main culprit I will be ordering new manifold kits.

Another question, the riser/elbow and 1.7" spacer looked good, and I think I can clean the passageways, do you think I can reuse them or should just go all new manifolds, spacers and risers/elbows?
Click to expand...
At six years in salt water replace all components
 
Here's the thing. You got water in the engine. You have two options. Run it as is and understand that it is probably on borrowed time and may or may not go south on you when you are miles away from dock/land. Or, remove the engine for a major inspection which includes pulling off the main bearing caps to see if there has been any degradation of the bearing shells. There's no in between.
When you run an engine with water as the lubricating medium, the babbitt material is quickly eaten away. You may have caught it early enough with the engine self-checking against further run time, but there's no way to know for certain unless you pull it apart.
I personally would never leave the slip knowing that one engine was so super sketchy. However, I do all my own wrenching so it would just be my inconvenience at stake rather than paying Big Bill to have it done by a service.
Whichever way you go, you'll still be facing possible replacement of the block and manifolds. If the boat is one you plan to keep for another 10 years, perhaps it would be better to bite the bullet now.
These 305s are not the worst engine. They are adequate for most applications. The manufacturers put these in as a compromise between the V6 and the 5.7 V8 in order to make the price point more attractive. At this stage of their life, they are getting pretty long in the tooth, so to speak, and are beginning to show signs that they have one foot in the grave (as you are painfully aware).
You have to ask the hard question of whether it is cost effective (never is) to repower with a set of new 350 or even 383s from Mr Mercruiser. You get peace of mind, more HP, and warranty. This'll cost more than the boat is worth of course. That's why you have to look at it with your checkbook and not your heart.
Alternately, you could get a remanufactured 305 long block, bolt on your existing externals, and be back in business. This is what I would do. I don't think I would bother rebuilding that engine. It may have core value as a trade-in but the fact that it was innundated would make me want to scrap it.
Sorry this happened, but having a wonky engine on a boat is a safety issue. Don't mess around.
 
o2batsea said:
These 305s are not the worst engine. They are adequate for most applications. The manufacturers put these in as a compromise between the V6 and the 5.7 V8 in order to make the price point more attractive. At this stage of their life, they are getting pretty long in the tooth, so to speak, and are beginning to show signs that they have one foot in the grave (as you are painfully aware).
Click to expand...
Seriously? I am the original owner of the 2002 version of this exact engine (5.0 MPI raw water cooled inland 100% fresh water) with 1,602 hours. Still turns 5100 on top going at 51 mph.
 
Mark S. said:
Seriously? I am the original owner of the 2002 version of this exact engine (5.0 MPI raw water cooled inland 100% fresh water) with 1,602 hours. Still turns 5100 on top going at 51 mph.
Click to expand...
Man, I wish Saltwater engines lasted that long. Lesson learned for me is that the next manifolds will be replaced at 6 years or less. As much as I rinse them after EVERY single use... I never expected this to happen. Now I'm debating if I take a chance and run it as is without disassembling it or replacing block and heads.

Has anyone here had a similar experience, and took a chance on running the motor without further inspection of the internal parts?

I plan on doing a compression test later today and compare to the previous readings from 5 years ago. If the pressures are acceptable, what do you all think? Should I run a few oil changes and filters after I install new manifolds and risers?
 
o2batsea said:
Here's the thing. You got water in the engine. You have two options. Run it as is and understand that it is probably on borrowed time and may or may not go south on you when you are miles away from dock/land. Or, remove the engine for a major inspection which includes pulling off the main bearing caps to see if there has been any degradation of the bearing shells. There's no in between....
Click to expand...
Replacing most of the engine now will definitely kill most of the season. I usually don't venture out too far so that I can make it back on one engine...done it before. Taking some compression tests today and inserting inspection camera to check things out... Will post results and findings later. Fingers crossed I got to it early enough....
 
One important thing,

It seems this happened all of a sudden, correct?

If so its impirtant to get it back running even if on a trailer or in the water to get all the moisture out.

I have (in the past) recovered completely sunk boats which water was everywhere.

Typically tried to get them operational within 48 hrs and running on a hose out of the water. This included multi oil ans filter changes, carb clean out and gas take clean out.

My point is you found the source, get the new part(s) and get them installed. Get it running.

What ever you see inside will only determine if you suffured hydrolock and pushed a piston thru the cylinder wall.

Otherwise the water will not hurt anything as long as it doesnt sit too long
 
kghost said:
One important thing,

It seems this happened all of a sudden, correct?

If so its impirtant to get it back running even if on a trailer or in the water to get all the moisture out.

I have (in the past) recovered completely sunk boats which water was everywhere.

Typically tried to get them operational within 48 hrs and running on a hose out of the water. This included multi oil ans filter changes, carb clean out and gas take clean out.

My point is you found the source, get the new part(s) and get them installed. Get it running.

What ever you see inside will only determine if you suffured hydrolock and pushed a piston thru the cylinder wall.

Otherwise the water will not hurt anything as long as it doesnt sit too long
Click to expand...
parts will not be here for a few days. I have sprayed WD-40 and fogging oil into the cylinders and exhaust ports. Removed the oil filter which had milky oil. All together I have flushed about 7 -8 quarts of oil --about 2 qts each time-- then suction out. Spray the cylinders and manually turn the engine a few rotations, then repeat. It's now getting clean oil out into the suction container.
You think I will be ok doing this until the parts arrive, and then run it on the hose as you mentioned

Yes, it happened all of a sudden. We had just gone 15 miles out and back (30 miles) without any loss of power. In fact, my VesselView Display was showing all the normal data as previous trips and past seasons -- Engine Temp was 156, Oil pressure was 45-60 (depending on RPM) and coolant (raw water) pressure 10-11 PSI
Then as we entered the marina we were running at low RPM and minimal speed. I was using both engines to maneuver into the dock, once we attached the bow line to the dock cleat, the port engine shut off and I could not get it started.
About 3-4 hours later I was able to remove the plugs, and started the process of turning the engine, spraying lubricant in the cylinders and suctioning oil out while adding clean oil.

As soon as I'm done with work in a couple hours, I will be doing a compression test and visual of the cylinders with a camera.

Thanks for the info, it's encouraging -- I hope I dodge a bullet....
 
kghost said:
One important thing,

It seems this happened all of a sudden, correct?

If so its impirtant to get it back running even if on a trailer or in the water to get all the moisture out.

I have (in the past) recovered completely sunk boats which water was everywhere.

Typically tried to get them operational within 48 hrs and running on a hose out of the water. This included multi oil ans filter changes, carb clean out and gas take clean out.

My point is you found the source, get the new part(s) and get them installed. Get it running.

What ever you see inside will only determine if you suffured hydrolock and pushed a piston thru the cylinder wall.

Otherwise the water will not hurt anything as long as it doesnt sit too long
Click to expand...
One more thing, how did those engines perform on the long run, and were those boats sunken in fresh or salt water?
Thank you
 
Fresh water,
In time some needed a starter or some electrical part.
The engines were fine mechanically.

Remember, water is actually a lubricant.

The issue is once water makes contact with machined surfaces especially salt water, and air mixes in, the surfaces start to rust. Piston rings can stick.

Once engine is run to full temp for a few hours, this should evaporate all the remaining moisture.
 
Mark S. said:
Seriously? I am the original owner of the 2002 version of this exact engine (5.0 MPI raw water cooled inland 100% fresh water) with 1,602 hours. Still turns 5100 on top going at 51 mph.
Click to expand...
Yes, seriously. They are kinda lightweights. It is a fact that these were offered to keep the price down and still be able to offer the attraction of a V8. If you're happy with yours, that's all that matters.
 
I don't think this was sudden onset. I think the issue got so bad that it hydro locked the engine when the exhaust pressure was lowered (on deceleration of a warm engine) enough for the water ingress to occur. It was probably there for quite some time. But that's the nature of things. You don't know until it fails.
Fingers crossed that it is just a bump in the road and you'll have it back in operation without further troubles.
 
kghost said:
Fresh water,
In time some needed a starter or some electrical part.
The engines were fine mechanically.

Remember, water is actually a lubricant.

The issue is once water makes contact with machined surfaces especially salt water, and air mixes in, the surfaces start to rust. Piston rings can stick.

Once engine is run to full temp for a few hours, this should evaporate all the remaining moisture.
Click to expand...
Because I will not be able to get new manifolds until early next week. Would it be wise to fill the crankcase with diesel then when I'm ready to run it, drain it and add the right amount of oil???
I just need options to keep this motor on life support until I put it back together.
Thanks to everyone for the advice

The compression test was good, not great -- also on cold engine
Keep in mind there was some fogging oil in the cylinders
I started with #8 first
#8= 170
#6= 170
#4= 160
#2= 130
Back in 2019 a few months after rebuilding this engine I got these readings -- Cold engine also
#8= 140
#6= 140
#4= 130
#2= 150

Waiting for a friend to bring is scope camera to take a look. but probably not needed as the compression was OK.
 
o2batsea said:
I don't think this was sudden onset. I think the issue got so bad that it hydro locked the engine when the exhaust pressure was lowered (on deceleration of a warm engine) enough for the water ingress to occur. It was probably there for quite some time. But that's the nature of things. You don't know until it fails.
Fingers crossed that it is just a bump in the road and you'll have it back in operation without further troubles.
Click to expand...
You are probably right. Carefully thinking back, the restart after the first part of the trip (15 miles) took three tries, and she finally cranked. performed fine on the return leg. We stopped at the island for a few hours. Then same issue with the starting. IT was a short trip to the marina and then it stalled literally at the last 30 seconds of the docking.
 
Go to walmart and get a couple 5 quart containers of straight SAE 30 oil. Use this to fill and for the subsequent oil changes. I use this as my normal go-to oil as it's a heavy duty oil and is also a little less expensive. Don't use diesel or anything else that will wash the oil out.
You really really really want to get that engine hot so it drives the moisture out. The longer it goes without doing that, the less likely you will be to salvage it. Run it without the manifolds if you have to.
Fill it with antifreeze and take the pump pulley off to keep it from overheating. But just run it long enough to get warmed up then kill it and let it cool.
 
o2batsea said:
Go to walmart and get a couple 5 quart containers of straight SAE 30 oil. Use this to fill and for the subsequent oil changes. I use this as my normal go-to oil as it's a heavy duty oil and is also a little less expensive. Don't use diesel or anything else that will wash the oil out.
You really really really want to get that engine hot so it drives the moisture out. The longer it goes without doing that, the less likely you will be to salvage it. Run it without the manifolds if you have to.
Fill it with antifreeze and take the pump pulley off to keep it from overheating. But just run it long enough to get warmed up then kill it and let it cool.
Click to expand...
After reading your message I realized, I can just pull the manifold and riser from the other engine and get this one running....can't believe I dodn't think of that. So as soon as I get the oil and filters, I will swap over the parts needed and run it.
The new manifold kits are supposed to arrive either Friday or Saturday... I was really worried that waiting that long was going to be detrimental.
Fingers crossed I can get it running TODAY.

Thanks for the info, and for getting me thinking "outside the box" to come up with another solution.

This forum has been a tremendous help. Than you all for your advice and guidance.
 
Happy to report the motor ran fine, temperatures were good. The only thing I noticed and I'm not sure if it's been like this previously. The water exiting the exhaust on starboard side (same side that had water in cylinders), also using the manifold and Riser from the other engine was about 20 degrees cooler than the port side exhaust.
After the 3rd oil change temps on both manifolds were matching, except for the water temp out of the exhaust.
The first oil change definitely had water, the second one had some bot not very noticeable. The third and fourth were water free as far as I could see.
Filled her up for the fifth time ran it a few minutes and put her to "bed" until parts get here.
The motor ran smooth, no weird noises, just purring as it did before.
Now time will tell if she will endure.

To everyone here who gave me advice and guidance, it's very much appreciated.
If any of you are ever around Panama City, FL let me know, would love to buy you a drink.
Thank you
Mario
 
Good to hear! Fingers crossed, it'll go for many more seasons!
I'd be watching that thing very carefully and checking the oil like every time I shut it off. Trust blown for sure. It isn't out of the question to change the oil again in a month or so after you get the new parts on and run it a few tens of hours.
 
ptudozer said:
Happy to report the motor ran fine, temperatures were good. The only thing I noticed and I'm not sure if it's been like this previously. The water exiting the exhaust on starboard side (same side that had water in cylinders), also using the manifold and Riser from the other engine was about 20 degrees cooler than the port side exhaust.
After the 3rd oil change temps on both manifolds were matching, except for the water temp out of the exhaust.
The first oil change definitely had water, the second one had some bot not very noticeable. The third and fourth were water free as far as I could see.
Filled her up for the fifth time ran it a few minutes and put her to "bed" until parts get here.
The motor ran smooth, no weird noises, just purring as it did before.
Now time will tell if she will endure.

To everyone here who gave me advice and guidance, it's very much appreciated.
If any of you are ever around Panama City, FL let me know, would love to buy you a drink.
Thank you
Mario
Click to expand...
that's good - are you going to replace the exhaust on both engines? Would assume they are both at end of service life- exhaust not the engines.
 
Dieter said:
that's good - are you going to replace the exhaust on both engines? Would assume they are both at end of service life- exhaust not the engines.
Click to expand...
Yep, manifolds, risers and elbows will be replaced. Inspected butterflies, all looked good. Will be adding all new worm gear clamps as well.
Parts should be here Friday or Saturday.
o2batsea said:
Good to hear! Fingers crossed, it'll go for many more seasons!
I'd be watching that thing very carefully and checking the oil like every time I shut it off. Trust blown for sure. It isn't out of the question to change the oil again in a month or so after you get the new parts on and run it a few tens of hours.
Click to expand...

Regarding the oil change after about 10 hrs or so... already have the oil and filter for it.
Lastly, does anyone have any insight why the water exiting the exhaust had one side cooler (by about 20 degrees) than the other side?
I'm just curious if this is an indication of any other issue, or maybe nothing.

Thank you all
 
Back
Top