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Roastmedaddy420

New member
Gday folks.

I feel like I have committed the sin of complacency and didn't care to understand what I was doing well enough and am now paying for it so I'm here for the roasting.

So basically I was having an idle problem with the boat in the water with it stalling but high throttle was maintaining (albeit not reaching the spec top speed). So I advanced the idle stop screw / timerbase to increase idle speed, however I advanced it to an extent that minimised how open I could get the carb throttle plates, but I figured I was okay with a lower top speed if it didn't cut out at idle. Why it wouldn't idle where the timer base is supposed to roughly be I don't know, I've narrowed it down to some kind of spark problem because I've made sure fuel supply is good and carbs are clean & correctly assembled. I thought advancing the timer base just meant more revs, but I think I'm realising it is supposed to be in harmony with the throttle openness? someone correct me on this

So anyway I was cruising for about 10-20 minutes at like half throttle (Which wouldve fully advanced the timer base), and then it just died instantly (after some gradual jerking) and now I can't get it to kick over.

I'm doing a compression check as soon as I can borrow my mates tool, but is there a chance the sudden stall threw the timing out of whack (and therefore it won't kick over) or have I just cooked my motor? It still feels like it has compression when I turn the flywheel & listen to the spark plug holes

Roasts are welcome :ROFLMAO: Motor is a 1997 evinrude 3 cylinder 2 stroke by the way.
 
Roastmedaddy420 said:
Took the flywheel off and noticed the key was broken, that's why it wont start
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Quick solutions are nice. FYI, its best to include the model # in future posts. Just giving the year and number of cylinders doesn't provide quite enough information when assisting with troubleshooting.
 
kevinj said:
Quick solutions are nice. FYI, its best to include the model # in future posts. Just giving the year and number of cylinders doesn't provide quite enough information when assisting with troubleshooting.
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Apologies, this is the model #: BE60TLEUA.

It's bittersweet, I'm obviously still concerned about what caused it to shear but the elephant in the room is I probably didn't have correct timing settings.

Then again, I had those settings because the original problem is a rough / jerky idle that stalls at too high of an rpm.

I've narrowed it down to either faulty stator or timer base which I'll be testing tomorrow as best I can but would appreciate input from anyone else who might have ideas
 
If flywheel nut is not torqued properly the key will shear.----Use a factory key.-----Flywheel / crank tapers must be matched , clean and dry for assembly.----Key locates flywheel for timing.----Flywheel is driven by locking tapers when properly assembled.
 
racerone said:
If flywheel nut is not torqued properly the key will shear.----Use a factory key.-----Flywheel / crank tapers must be matched , clean and dry for assembly.----Key locates flywheel for timing.----Flywheel is driven by locking tapers when properly assembled.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what happened. I made the stupidest assumption it would be fine with a light torque given it's weight and gravity (I had planned to take it off again not long after). Put a new key on and torqued it properly and it ran again.

Thanks
 
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