Tale of 2 motors

[offutd]

Ok I have a pair of 1993 Tracker Pro Series 60HP TE60TLETD. One is on the boat the other is a "parts" motor at least that's what I was told. Ok here goes. I checked compression on the motor that is on the boat. Top: 105 Mid: 95 and Bottom: 105. Before tearing into it i decide to check the "parts motor" and its compression was Top: 85 Mid: 115 and Bottom: 112. Since I have never done this before I decided to tear the "parts" motor powerhead down see if I could find any issue and repair that powerhead then use it on the boat just swap the power heads. Tore it down didn't find anything crazy like a beat up or melted piston all I found was the piston rings seemed to be stuck into the slot on the piston at least 1 ring on each piston and 2 on the top one. It was somewhat nasty in there but not terrible. So I ordered new piston rings, powerhead gasket kit, lower crankshaft bearing "the one on there had a grinding feeling". Got my parts in and quickly realized that the OEM piston rings i ordered where not at all the same as the ones that came off this pistons. After further investigation I realized that I have what I believe to be Wiseco pistons in the "parts" motor not OEM ones. The number on the top of the piston is 3072p3 and when searched it comes back Wiseco. So I cleaned everything up head to toe, cleaned out the ring grooves in the piston, cleaned the rings, honed the cylinders and decided I'd put it all back together and see what happens. Bought a Evinrude service emanual to get all the torque specs and followed it step by step got the powerhead back together and tested compression again this time on the "parts" motor I got Top: 110 Mid: 120 and Bottom: 107. So huge improvement on top and a little better on mid and a little worse on bottom. So my question is #1 it seems I can make a good powerhead out of the "parts" motor with new correct rings for the pistion do ya'll agree? #2 what should I do about the Wiseco pistons I cannot find just the rings for them but I planned on calling them in the morning with my piston model number and see what I can get. I also put each ring in its respective hole and put a feeler gauge in the gap the book calls for .007-.017 and everything was higher than .017 by a bit how big of a deal is this? #3 Am I missing anything at all? Should I continue to fix the "parts" motor or switch to the motor on the boat? The numbers on the pistons on the boat match the OEM pistons numbers so my new rings should work if those pistons are in good shape. Sorry for the long post I hope this doesn't deter readers it should be short from here on out. Thanks in adavance.

Crank once I opened it up and cylinders before honing.

 

[faztbullet]

Answers to your questions:
#1....No as the cylinders need bored as they are damaged from water/rust pitting
#2....P3 piston shows motor has already been bored .030 oversize. Will need to go to machine shop to see if block will clean up at.040 so dont order rings.
#3...That motor has had water in it from the rusted crank and pitted cylinders. What did the rod journals look like? You need to look at other motor as you may have to take 2 engines and machine work to make 1 good one

 

[racerone]

Agreed----P3 is 0.030" O/S

 

[offutd]

Answers to your questions:
#1....No as the cylinders need bored as they are damaged from water/rust pitting
#2....P3 piston shows motor has already been bored .030 oversize. Will need to go to machine shop to see if block will clean up at.040 so dont order rings.
#3...That motor has had water in it from the rusted crank and pitted cylinders. What did the rod journals look like? You need to look at other motor as you may have to take 2 engines and machine work to make 1 good one

#1 - 10-4 yes this motor sat outside with the cowl cover on for 2 years since I've had not sure how it lived the previous 21 years.
#2 - 10-4 I'm sure this price varies depending on shop and location, any pointers in this type of work? Certain types shops to go to? Maybe ask local marine shops where they go?
#3 - The rod journals looked good to me no big corrosion or anything. I will tear apart the other engine as well and see what I got.

Thanks

 

[offutd]

Agreed----P3 is 0.030" O/S

 

[offutd]

Ok tore apar the motor that is actually on the boat and here is what the cylinders and crank and intake looks like as well as pistons. In my opinion very clean. So scoring front the back on cylinder walls may a good honing can take care of this? As for the pistons a few if not each one in some spot are worn smooth. They do rock in the cylinder is this the issue? This motor compression was as follows top 105, mid 95 and bottom 105. Thanks in advance. And remember i have 2 motors so any advice on combining something from each Im open to

 

[faztbullet]

That a bridged port block and it worn, honing aint going to help. Just go ahead and bore it .020, modify bridge and it will last ya several long years if maintained

 

[offutd]

That a bridged port block and it worn, honing aint going to help. Just go ahead and bore it .020, modify bridge and it will last ya several long years if maintained

Ok I’m searching for shops that will bore these. What do you mean by bridged block? And further what do you mean by modify bridge?

 

[faztbullet]

Where are you located? Here is I recommend. Jason White at Jay’s Block Shop in Tennessee (931) 808-0814. He can bore it,modify bridges and supply all needed parts. Can even shortblock it for ya

 

[offutd]

Where are you located? Here is I recommend. Jason White at Jay’s Block Shop in Tennessee (931) 808-0814. He can bore it,modify bridges and supply all needed parts. Can even shortblock it for ya

I’m in Weatherford,TX just west of Ft.Worth. As I search locally what does something like what you’re suggesting typically cost?

 

[faztbullet]

Should be around $200