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1991 Bayliner Capri 1850 with a 3.0 Liter Mercruiser I/O Hesitates When Accelerating Out Of The No Wake Zone

T

Tbschall

New member
I have a couple of questions actually, but possibly related:

I have a 1991 Bayliner Capri open bow 1850 with a Mercruiser 3.0 liter 4-cylinder I/O engine and an Alpha One Drive.

First: When pulling out of the marina, the boat starts and runs fine at low speed, but when advancing the throttle it either bogs down or dies. This happens for awhile, but it seems to become less of an issue as the motor warms up, but not always. What might be the issue?

Second: I have new NGK spark plugs and Quicksilver wires (not yet installed), but I was wondering about the distributor cap and rotor. If I were also to change them, would I also need to adjust the timing, or is it a simple one-for-one swap? May this fix the first problem I mentioned earlier?

Thanks much for any help anyone can provide!
 
Not knowing the history of your engine in particular, in my experience, I've had to replace the disti cap and rotor at least every other season. Spark plugs and wires, far less frequently. As a matter or habit, I never leave the slip until my engine is up to operating temp for safety sake... Having an engine stall or get balky in close quarters no my cup of tea.
 
As mentioned check the fuel filter, go through replacing your ignition parts, would also check the timing.

Probably needs a carb rebuild, but verify fuel tank is clean first. if you have junk in fuel filter will pollute a fresh carb rebuild.

When you take the plugs out what do they look like?
 
Based on year of your boat/engine,
Most likely the accelorator pump needs replacement. This requires rebuild.
if you can do it ypurself, Purchase only OEM parts unless you get high quality parts from a Carb rebuilder/supply company.

If you disconnect throttle cable at Carb,
Then rotate carb throttle shaft while looking down into carb throat

AS SOON AS THE THOTTLE SHAFT TURNS, GAS MUST SQUIRT OUT OF ACCLERATOR NOZZLES.
If it doesnt, the the accelerator pump is bad and needs replacement.

This is what causes the condition you describe, 99% of the time.
 
Dieter said:
All 3.0 s have a fuel filter in the bowl on the fuel pump.
Click to expand...
Got it. Any other fuel filter to check on? I've got the same boat as the OP and experienced the same conditions he described all last year. Considering pulling the carb before this season starts and giving it a good cleaning. Haven't ever taken this carb off so a bit reluctant right now.
 
MTBoater said:
Got it. Any other fuel filter to check on? I've got the same boat as the OP and experienced the same conditions he described all last year. Considering pulling the carb before this season starts and giving it a good cleaning. Haven't ever taken this carb off so a bit reluctant right now.
Click to expand...
There may be a sintered stone in carb inlet , take off fuel line. You can follow fuel line back to tank. Quite possible someone added a canister filter at some point. Take fuel line off carb and crank engine see what fuel flow into a container yiu get. Look ate fuel for contaminants. Mikes carb parts has good quality rebuild kits and videos on how to rebuild it.
 
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