I am sure some here including myself have build up motors with care and precision only to be disappointed. Conversely some have thrown together junk only to be pleasantly surprised. Ya can always drop a ring in and measure end gap at various points to give ya some idea of whether to continue...
Are ya runnin it in a barrel? If so make sure there is water over the water pump. Could be a dry impeller upon startup..
Get yourself a inexpensive compound bow and start at 50lbs and work up..
I'll bite...whats the torque at 3000rpm? I see the 4 has cam phasers...curious..
Since ya have enough information here why not plot the curves so we can see them? That would answer alot..
would be better if it was independent info though.
The 4 stroke belongs on the family pontoon barge and the 2 stroke goes on the sport or bass boat.
Horses for courses...Way too many variables in the question to have a black and white answer..
If one needs the lightest hp...no govm regs..go 2 stroke. If weight no concern then choose with...
It is really all about the area under the curve..
Unit force and unit distance are inversely proportional.
I want the motor with the most area under the power curve..all else being equivalent.
There is so much more to it than hp and or torque curve. I bought a new yamaha 2.5hp for my canoe in 2006. By 2014 it was dead..blow by pressuring crankcase and blowing oil all over. If I could have bought a new evinrude 3hp 2 stroke it would still be running fine and would be an easy...
Float drop is a way to keep the float off the bowl during storage. Otherwise the float might get stuck to the bowl if there is fuel left in the bowl during periods of non use. Like racer said it does not affect operation.
Gonna fabricate a remote throttle but searched for couple days and found no conclusive answer...won't have motor until end of january and want to be ready...anyone know..push or pull?