61b Johnson 75hp help please

" we have a 1961 johnson 75hp

" we have a 1961 johnson 75hp outboard with a starting problem. It turns, has spark, we just rebuilt the fuel pump and carb. We have change the plugs. The battery seems (or so the meter says) to be charged. It just seems to not be getting fuel in the carb for one and now it seems to be getting slower when trying to crank. Any more ideas on what to check for? Any help would be greatly appreciated since my husband is pulling his hair out. Thank you!
model #v4al-13
Blueeyes1988 "

Mix you some premix in a squi

Mix you some premix in a squirt bottle and give it a little shot thru the carb with that. This will ensure that its getting fuel. If you haven't done a compression test do one and post back. I have the same engine and it has 90 compression on it and it starts hard but will run. It takes a lot of amps to turn those big v4s over.
As for the slowing down on turning over I would say the starter is getting hot

Check to see if the spark wil

Check to see if the spark will jump a gap of at least 5/16" gap( laying plugs on the block is not a good check for spark).Check the timing marks on the flywheel and block and on the magneto (distributor).Those motors should start right up.

"Blueeyes... The 1961 V/4 75hp

"Blueeyes... The 1961 V/4 75hp could have either magneto ignition (plug wires come straight down out of the bottom), or automotive ignition (plug wires come out the top sides of the distributor).

In either case, the engine must turn over (crank) at a fairly good rpm in order to force fuel to the piston/cylinder area.

If the engine is cranking slow, even with a new fully charged battery, there may be a tight but dirty connection... or a loose connection somewhere. Remove and clean all of the associated connections at the battery, solenoid, starter, ground etc. Tighted the battery connection with a wrench or pliers, not your fingers.

Even when all connections are clean and tight (or if one is loose, dirty etc), when cranking, that area of the cable can get quite hot. Feel the cables to see if any portion of the associated wiring is hot. If so, it's also possible that the cable is clean and tight but is in itself faulty and is corroding within the insulated covering.

Start with the basics after the engine cranks (turns over) properly.... or by cranking by hand. Check the compression, should be approx 100+ psi and even on all cylinders. With the s/plugs removed, the spark should jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame (a strong wide snap).

If the compression and spark are as they should be, something would need to be amiss in the fuel department. Let us know what you find.

Joe "

" Hiya Joe,
Ok it seems the c

" Hiya Joe,
Ok it seems the compression is fine, we put some fuel mix in the carb and she wants to start. But the battery doesn't seem to be strong enough to allow it to crank. So we are exchanging the battery as I type this. To see what happens. But I do have another question for you.......

On the motor case is a coil (black tube looking thing) The black wire from the neg. of the coil goes up to the distributor. There is a tan wire from the base of the coil going up to a small case that leads to the battery. There is a white wire going to a large casing that leads to the battery. The coil has been changed, but we are not sure if they were put on right. ok the ?? is we don't know which is the positive lead and where that one should go. or are they already in the correct position. Does this make sense?

oh and we have an automotive ignition...the wires come from the dist. "

" The motors had a resistor wi

" The motors had a resistor wire to the coil. If somebody put a resistor coil on the motor,then you will not have proper spark.On older motors it is amazing what people will do. "

"Blueyes..... You say "The

"Blueyes..... You say "There is a tan wire from the base of the coil going up to a small case that leads to the battery. There is a white wire going to a large casing that leads to the battery."

Sorry my friend but I have no idea of what you speak. There should be a resistor wire leading to the (+) terminal of the coil (unless someone installed a resistor type automobile coil), and a black wire leading from the (-) terminal of the coil to the distributor. On some models there is also a gray wire leading from the (-) terminal of the coil to the instrument section for a tachometer.

I'd need a better explanation than the above in order to visualize that scenario.

If possible, send some pictures of what you're speaking of to: [email protected]

Joe"

" Joe,
I have emailed you 2 e

" Joe,
I have emailed you 2 emails. 1 with the wires and 1 with the whole engine setup. It's starting to look like we may put this thing in the shop. When he tried to crank it earlier......there was still no fuel going to the carb.
I hope the pics. show what you needed to see.....sorry it's at night tho...we were out on my sister's boat...that of course RUNS!

OH....another ??

If we were to replace this engine with another.....we have a 1963 17' Jayhawk.....what size engine would be appropriate?....75hp seems too much or is it? "

"I'll look the pics over l

"I'll look the pics over later and get back to you. The 17' Jayhawk.... depends on the transom setup. There should be a plate where somewhere which states the maximum hp allowed.

Joe"

" Well, it's running now..

" Well, it's running now.....it ended up being some ports in the carb that were still clogged. Right now the only thing we need to do is changed the fuel hoses and the guy who came out to look at the motor said we should get the water pump rebuilt or replaced. So thank you for your responses! I really appreciate it.
When we finally put it in the water, i'll let you all know how we do!
Thanks again!
Blueeyes (happy that the hubby is happy again!) "