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Crossed trim wires

pugetsounder

Advanced Contributor
OK so I bought this 1982 19&#3

OK so I bought this 1982 19' Sunrunner a couple weeks back and I noticed something wrong with the trim controls. I can only get the outdrive up using the trim control on the throttle and it only goes down using the tilt control just aft of the control box. I assume this isn't normal but could it be a relay? I just noticed it this past weekend and haven't had time to dig in and look at it. I do have a Seloc manual but haven't traced the wiring diagram. Even if I did I'm not sure what to look for. Any thoughts?
 
I have a smiliar problem on my

I have a smiliar problem on my 82 starcraft check your cicuit breaker mine is under the dash I have to buy a couple because they wont reset but Im thinking we have the same problem.
 
The wires to the 'up'

The wires to the 'up' limit switch are likely broken and/or corroded. The 'trailer' button bypass the limit switch.
The limit switch is on the outdrive on the port side... black hockey-puck looking thing. The one on the other side gives you the trim indicator or your dash (if so equiped).
 
"How the trim/tilt works

Be


"How the trim/tilt works

Before you tear anything apart or replace wiring and switches, test it out; first by visual inspection by pulling back and forth on the wires while operating the swithes and then test with a meter. At the commander switches, the red wire will always have 12 volts. The green wire gets 12 volts when the trim toggle is held down. The blue wire gets 12 volts only when the toggle is held up or the trailer switch is pushed in. The purple wire is part of the limit switch circuit.

If the switch voltages are as they are supposed to be then go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector with two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. These are the trim position and limit switch wires. Pull them apart and inspect; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them.

Next check the three wire connector (RED, BLUE & GREEN) at the pump assy. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the toggle trim/tilt and trailer switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy.

The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Did you check the switches with an ohmmeter? The trim/tilt switch is a 2-way switch and will show continuity only when it is toggled in each direction between two of the wires.

Up toggle connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire. Down toggle connects the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The TRAILER UP switch also connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire.

The OD trim limit switch will only send voltage to the trim/tilt switch in the upward toggle position if the OD limit switch is below the adjusted trim limit that keeps the OD being out of the water.

To test the limit switch circuit, lower the OD to the down position and slowly raise it with the trim toggle up until it stops. Then measure the distance between the trim cylinder attaching bolts. If the distance is approx. 22 +/- 1/4 inches, then the trim limit switch is adjusted properly and the commander trim toggle switch is working in the up/down mode.

Go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. Pull them apart; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them.

Next check the three (RED, BLUE & GREEN) wire connector at the pump assy. The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy. The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Disconnect the trim/tilt assy. wires from the battery and then check each of the nuts and studs on the solenoids for clean and tight fittings. Each solenoid has three wires and the buss bar connected to it. The bases of them have a black ground wire and a small blue wire to one and a small green wire to the other.

On top of each solenoid, the large BLUE wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small blue wire at the base while the large GREEN wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small green wire at the base.

The other copper solenoid studs are connected together with a copper buss bar. One of the two studs will also have a funny looking 110 amp fuse attached to the bar. The large RED wire from the battery connects to the 110 amp fuse. This large red wire is the power for this buss bar. A small RED wire attached to the bar stud sends 12 volts to the switches which in turn sends the 12 volts to the solenoids which turns on the pump motor.

Important: if the studs on the either solenoid are dark and not like a clean penney, especially the BLUE wired solenoid, this solenoid is failing due to age and/or a loose bottom copper stud nut. The dark color comes from heat generated inside of the solenoid by the contactor because it is arcing like welding similar to points wearing out. Change the solenoid.


Cleaning the trim limit switch and trim position sender. They may just need cleaning the old grease out, relubing and readjusted. Scribe the OD and both pieces of the switch and the sender before removing. Clean out the old grease and use a pencil eraser to polish the copper contact plates. Repack with 2-4-C lubricant and squirt fresh grease thru the zerk fitting before reassembly.

To adjust the trim position sender, tilt the OD to the trailer UP position. With the trim position sender reinstalled loosely, move it until the gauge is in the up position. Tighten all the screws. Lower the OD to see if the gauge tracks the movement. The trim position gauge should be at the bottom when the OD is down.

Adjusting the OD trim limit switch. It will only send voltage to the trim/tilt switch in the upward toggle position if the OD limit switch is below the adjusted trim limit that keeps the OD being out of the water.

To test the limit switch circuit, lower the OD to the down position and slowly raise it with the trim toggle up until it stops. Then measure the distance between the trim cylinder attaching bolts. If the distance is approx. 22 +/- 1/4 inches, then the trim limit switch is adjusted properly and the commander trim toggle switch is working in the up/down mode.

If the distance is more or less than the limit, loosen the mounting screws on the limit switch. While having someone hold the trim button in the up or down position (based on the direction the trim limit ram cylinder needs to go to get the correct distance) while you SLOWLY move the switch to get the hydraulic pump to extend or contract the cylinders to the right point."
 
"WOW! Thanks Guy G that's

"WOW! Thanks Guy G that's a whole lotta writing. I found the problem after poking around I found that someone was pulling and connecting wires willy-nilly. Some were left diconnected as the down wire from the throttle trim. They had the neutral safety switch connected to one of the trim wires. How it worked at all is beyond me. So I matched up colored wires and followed the blue N safety switch wires to the ignition switch wires as per the Seloc manual diagram.

BUT I don't have the trailer switch or the three button switch, I have two up/down trim switches, one on the throttle and one just aft of the throttle control. The wires coming from the one aft has red/yellow/gray wires and I couldn't find anything in the Seloc diagram that comes from the trim in those colors. So I just left that trim control disconnected and I will just use the trim switch on the throttle control. If there is a big problem in doing this someone let me know, but as far as I can tell from the Seloc manual these two switches do the same thing so it's a little redundant to have two? They are both connected to the trim limit switch on the outdrive. I tested the outdrive trim and it seems to go all the way up and down in nuetral just fine.

I have seen this same set up in another boat with the 470/alpha 1 package and that guy couldn't figure out why using one over the other switch made any difference."
 
"Let me look in my manuals and

"Let me look in my manuals and get back to you. So that I understand, your throttle/shifter has an up/down trim only or is there a trailer button? The other switches are how far away and how many buttons and is it a flat panel switch?"
 
No trailer switch just up/down

No trailer switch just up/down on the throttle control arm. Then just aft of the throttle control arm but part of the throttle control assembly is another up/down switch. ??? I assumed that was the trailer switch and the switch on the throttle control handle was just for trim while running but now I'm not sure. It's not covered in the original owner's manual. It is an Apha 1 Gen 1 outdrive produced in 1982.

I will test it out tonight if I get the chance and run it on a hose. If it's in forward and the trim limit kicks in then I think I will be OK using the one switch on the handle. The other switch's wire color code have me confused because I can't find a diagram with the yellow/red/gray anywhere. The yellow appears to be up and the gray appears to be down and the red of course is power. Also I can't find anywhere under the dash where these wires connect into. Am I making sense?
 
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