Logo

Alfa one stern drive pump

fishguide

New member
"I have a 1986 Sea Ray Amberja

"I have a 1986 Sea Ray Amberjack. One of the stern drive pumps seems to be bad, or cylinder.
The motor runs but does not raise the drive. After running the pump for a short time to try and raise the drive, I switch to lower it and it runs until the limit switch stops it.
Which makes be believe it is trying to raise it.
The reservoir is full and looks very clean.

I am wondering how I can fault isolate which is bad the pump or the cylinder.
I rack store the boat so I can easily take it out of the water.

Bob Summers"
 
Disconnect the outer end bolt

Disconnect the outer end bolt on one trim cylinder shaft at a time and run the trim up/down. You'll find it.
 
"To bleed the trim cylinders,

"To bleed the trim cylinders, just run them all the way up, then all the way down, repeating until all air is out and they move smoothly. Just be sure to check the resevoir level frequently."
 
The limit switch is supposed t

The limit switch is supposed to stop it from going too far up not down! That may be your problem.
 
"Thanks Troy, If the limit swi

"Thanks Troy, If the limit switch were the problem the motor would not keep running when trying to raise the unit."
 
"The limit switch should not s

"The limit switch should not stop the drive from lowering. You have either a grossly misadjusted limit switch or a wiring problem (miswired, shorted, etc.)"
 
"Robert:

I thought the OD t


"Robert:

I thought the OD trim limit switch only controls the travel length of the cylinders while under way which is 22.5" +/- 0.25" from trim cylinder mounting bolts center to center. Might be wrong.


Being a part time jackass, I have tilted my engine up past the trim limit with the trailer switch while fishing in stump and BFR (Big Fat Rock) infested water and forgot. The engine started with a roar! Duhh! on me.


How the trim/tilt works--Before you tear anything apart or replace wiring and switches, test it out; first by visual inspection by pulling back and forth on the wires while operating the swithes and then test with a meter. At the commander switches, the red wire will always have 12 volts. The green wire gets 12 volts when the trim toggle is held down. The blue wire gets 12 volts only when the toggle is held up or the trailer switch is pushed in. The purple wire is part of the limit switch circuit.

If the switch voltages are as they are supposed to be then go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector with two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. These are the trim position and limit switch wires. Pull them apart and inspect; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them.

Next check the three wire connector (RED, BLUE & GREEN) at the pump assy. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the toggle trim/tilt and trailer switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy.

The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Did you check the switches with an ohmmeter? The trim/tilt switch is a 2-way switch and will show continuity only when it is toggled in each direction between two of the wires.

Up toggle connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire. Down toggle connects the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The TRAILER UP switch also connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire.

The OD trim limit switch will only send voltage to the trim/tilt switch in the upward toggle position if the OD limit switch is below the adjusted trim limit that keeps the OD being out of the water.

To test the limit switch circuit, lower the OD to the down position and slowly raise it with the trim toggle up until it stops. Then measure the distance between the trim cylinder attaching bolts. If the distance is approx. 22 +/- 1/4 inches, then the trim limit switch is adjusted properly and the commander trim toggle switch is working in the up/down mode.

Go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. Pull them apart; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them.

Next check the three (RED, BLUE & GREEN) wire connector at the pump assy. The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy. The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Disconnect the trim/tilt assy. wires from the battery and then check each of the nuts and studs on the solenoids for clean and tight fittings. Each solenoid has three wires and the buss bar connected to it. The bases of them have a black ground wire and a small blue wire to one and a small green wire to the other.

On top of each solenoid, the large BLUE wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small blue wire at the base while the large GREEN wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small green wire at the base.

The other copper solenoid studs are connected together with a copper buss bar. One of the two studs will also have a funny looking 110 amp fuse attached to the bar. The large RED wire from the battery connects to the 110 amp fuse. This large red wire is the power for this buss bar. A small RED wire attached to the bar stud sends 12 volts to the switches which in turn sends the 12 volts to the solenoids which turns on the pump motor.

Important: if the studs on the either solenoid are dark and not like a clean penney, especially the BLUE wired solenoid, this solenoid is failing due to age and/or a loose bottom copper stud nut. The dark color comes from heat generated inside of the solenoid by the contactor because it is arcing like welding similar to points wearing out. Change the solenoid.


Cleaning the trim limit switch and trim position sender. They may just need cleaning the old grease out, relubing and readjusted. Scribe the OD and both pieces of the switch and the sender before removing. Clean out the old grease and use a pencil eraser to polish the copper contact plates. Repack with 2-4-C lubricant and squirt fresh grease thru the zerk fitting before reassembly.

To adjust the trim position sender, tilt the OD to the trailer UP position. With the trim position sender reinstalled loosely, move it until the gauge is in the up position. Tighten all the screws. Lower the OD to see if the gauge tracks the movement. The trim position gauge should be at the bottom when the OD is down.

Adjusting the OD trim limit switch. It will only send voltage to the trim/tilt switch in the upward toggle position if the OD limit switch is below the adjusted trim limit that keeps the OD being out of the water.

To test the limit switch circuit, lower the OD to the down position and slowly raise it with the trim toggle up until it stops. Then measure the distance between the trim cylinder attaching bolts. If the distance is approx. 22 +/- 1/4 inches, then the trim limit switch is adjusted properly and the commander trim toggle switch is working in the up/down mode.

If the distance is more or less than the limit, loosen the mounting screws on the limit switch. While having someone hold the trim button in the up or down position (based on the direction the trim limit ram cylinder needs to go to get the correct distance) while you SLOWLY move the switch to get the hydraulic pump to extend or contract the cylinders to the right point."
 
Back
Top