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55HP evinrudeyearlower unit repair

P

Paul Brooking

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" I have a evinrude 55HP model

" I have a evinrude 55HP model (55973A). what year ? also are oem parts available to reseal the lower unit (elect. shift)and should I try this repair, I am a mechanic (heavy equip.) "
 
"Paul..... Your engine is a 19

"Paul..... Your engine is a 1969 55hp Evinrude. To my knowledge there is no lower unit seal kit available. However, the individual seals are available at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership and also from various 3rd party companies such as Seirra, etc... possibly even NAPA.

By taking ones time, I'm sure you could do the repairs but I would strongly advise you to obtain a Service Manual to avoid any possible expensive mistakes.

I would suggest that rather than reseal the entire unit (unless it really requires it), that you drain the unit, then apply 7 to 12 lbs of pressurized air (no more than that) via the oil drain screw hole. That should allow you to hear and possibly see the leakage area.

The unit is what's called an "Hydro Electric Shift" unit. The following may give you a little insight on it.

(Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

Joe
"
 
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