mark_searay
Contributing Member
"Hello to all and a huge thank
"Hello to all and a huge thanks for all the helpful info from the members on this site, it has been a great help so far.
I’m a new member and new boat owner, 1985 SRV255 Sea Ray, twin 170’s. “inherited” this boat this spring from the in-laws and have been sorting out a multitude of issues and will post those experiences later to hopefully help others
This boat had dual batteries as delivered on starboard engine. At some point the battery switch was upgraded to a Guest (1-Both-2 model, but don’t know if it has the field isolation feature. Both engines still have stator charging system/water cooled VR.
Problem is the one of these starboard batteries does not charge, when the battery switch is on “2” ship’s voltmeter reads 14 V and a DVM confirms appropriate charging voltage. When on “Both” voltage drops to about 12.5 and when on “1” voltage drops to 10 after engine start and over course of running (15-20 min @ +2500 rpm) rises to 12 and never gets above 12. Below 2500 rpm voltage drops to 11-12 and at idle 10-11. Battery connections are clean and tight.
I have been unable to find an unintentional load on this battery. Initially suspected that this 3 year old battery was bad as the disconnected voltage was just above 12 so it was replaced, other battery sits at 12.6-12.8V. The problem battery has an 18” ground cable to the negative post of the “good” charging battery. The newly replaced battery will readily accept a charge from a battery charger and did not solve the issue, but I don’t like 3-4 year old batteries anyway. All cables are the crimped tinned copper, not “lead” style.
I know the previous owner would switch batteries while underway and understand this is an issue with an alternator, but is it an issue with the stator charging system?
This is a new problem in the past month, and have been on the water since March, I suspect the 18” negative cable is bad, internally corroded, but wanted to ask if this might also be a sign of the voltage regulator going bad or where else I should be hunting for a cure?
An alternator conversion is in the plan just didn’t want to do it right away due to host of other issues.
Thanks in advance."
"Hello to all and a huge thanks for all the helpful info from the members on this site, it has been a great help so far.
I’m a new member and new boat owner, 1985 SRV255 Sea Ray, twin 170’s. “inherited” this boat this spring from the in-laws and have been sorting out a multitude of issues and will post those experiences later to hopefully help others
This boat had dual batteries as delivered on starboard engine. At some point the battery switch was upgraded to a Guest (1-Both-2 model, but don’t know if it has the field isolation feature. Both engines still have stator charging system/water cooled VR.
Problem is the one of these starboard batteries does not charge, when the battery switch is on “2” ship’s voltmeter reads 14 V and a DVM confirms appropriate charging voltage. When on “Both” voltage drops to about 12.5 and when on “1” voltage drops to 10 after engine start and over course of running (15-20 min @ +2500 rpm) rises to 12 and never gets above 12. Below 2500 rpm voltage drops to 11-12 and at idle 10-11. Battery connections are clean and tight.
I have been unable to find an unintentional load on this battery. Initially suspected that this 3 year old battery was bad as the disconnected voltage was just above 12 so it was replaced, other battery sits at 12.6-12.8V. The problem battery has an 18” ground cable to the negative post of the “good” charging battery. The newly replaced battery will readily accept a charge from a battery charger and did not solve the issue, but I don’t like 3-4 year old batteries anyway. All cables are the crimped tinned copper, not “lead” style.
I know the previous owner would switch batteries while underway and understand this is an issue with an alternator, but is it an issue with the stator charging system?
This is a new problem in the past month, and have been on the water since March, I suspect the 18” negative cable is bad, internally corroded, but wanted to ask if this might also be a sign of the voltage regulator going bad or where else I should be hunting for a cure?
An alternator conversion is in the plan just didn’t want to do it right away due to host of other issues.
Thanks in advance."