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Omc shift problem

cathy

Contributing Member
"after separating the upper an

"after separating the upper and lower outdrive on our omc, we are unable to get it back to working order as far as shifting is concerned. tried everything.....like measuring the shift rod to 7 and13/64 ths...anything else we should try..Ready to give up on this boat. We had all gears until we did this .........What a mistake..........Cathy"
 
"Sorry to hear your troubles.

"Sorry to hear your troubles. It took me about 1 day to figure out everything and doing it, insided the boat, back out, in and out as I had no one to help me! Lots faster with 2 people. You might have already did this but this is what I went by doing it. The pics are hard to make out but this is the steps I took. Hope this makes some sence, so hard trying to type what is pictured in my brain! lol
I was about brain washed but took my time studying the pictures and reading Stuarts site and all worked out perfect. Printed it out and took it out with me. Wish there was a better way to help.
Make sure the outdrive shift rod is in neutral first of all before adjusting it. And control box before putting drive back on.
(1) http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/sb4052_4.jpg"
see picture 15

(2)http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/sb4052_3.jpg"
see pic. 10
Will try to make it real simple! This is all when outdrive is off. (outside boat) It is a small nut on the end, 3/8" nut if I remember right at the end if the shift cable. With both the throttle cable and shift rod cables disconnected on the motor look at that black plastic piece that the threaded rod from the shift cable runs through (with the 3/8" nut). Will be like a raised line on the black plastic (on the right side), Line (guide tab) that up with the edge (pivot housing) the top unit connects back to.

After that is right, I put my drive back on (still in neutral and cables disconnected). Then I adjusted my cables inside the boat. The control box needs to be in neutral now.

see pic .#83 http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/tcable1.jpg"
The easiest way is to make sure the cables is adjusted right is they will all slide on easy without anything moving on the engine.
Last I did this:


1. Forward Overstroke Adjustment

Center the cable anchor located in the angled slot on the top of the shift lever. Install the remote control shift cable, control box in FORWARD GEAR FULL THROTTLE. Pull out on the casing guide to remove any slack. Ajust the shift cable trunnion to center the forward (fixed) overstroke cam with the switch button on the overstroke switch.

2. Forward Gear Engagement

Install the transom bracket shift cable, control box is still in forward gear full throttle. PULL OUT ON THE TRANSOM BRACKET SHIFT CABLE TO FULLY ENGAGE THE CLUTCH DOG WHILE SOMEONE ROTATES THE PROPELLER. Make sure you pull back on the shift cable to remove all the end play from the system as you adjust the black barrel trunnion. When installed correctly and all slack is out of the system the load lever will "rock upward stiffly" and "rock downward easily" but should always center itself!

3.Reverse Gear Engagement

Shift the control box into REVERSE GEAR FULL THROTTLE, loosen the 7/16" nut in the angled slot at the top of the shift lever on the shift bracket. PUSH DOWN on the shift lever while someone rotates the propeller to FULLY ENGAGE THE CLUTCH DOG. While holding down on the shift lever, remove all slack from the remote control shift cable by pulling its casing guide to the rear of the boat. Be careful not to preload the system. Then tighten the 7/16" nut securely. When adjusted properly, and all play removed, the load lever will "rock downward stiffly" and "rock upward easily", but will always center itself.

4. Reverse Overtroke Adjustment

Adjust the reverse overstroke cam to center itself with the switch button on the overstroke switch (3/8" nut). The control box is still in reverse gear full throttle. "PW thru RG" (sic) models will probably not have a reverse overstroke cam.

5. Throttle Cable Adjustment

Install and adjust the throttle cable. Control box should be moved into the forward gear idle position, then half-way back to neutral. Tension on the cable should be only enough to positively close the throttle plates. Excessive tension will cause the shift system to bind. (Unit should shift no harder with the cable installed than with it removed)."
 
"Not sure if you have the driv

"Not sure if you have the drive installed or not but if not can you shift into reverse by moving the shift rod and turning the propshaft? IF not then the problem is still in the lower unit, if you can then it's probably a bellcrank or lower shift cable adjustment."
 
"I had a 1991 omc 3.0 and afte

"I had a 1991 omc 3.0 and after rebuilding the shift linkage, and reattaching everything, we found we had drive, and neutral bu no reverse. after adjusting the linkage legths we found a happy medium between F N and R. however, the engine revved up fine in R, but when we went to rev it in D the engine always sputtered and died. I disconnected the wires for the shift assist, as i figured it was something electrical, and as soon as I unplugged them, it worked fine. when i was running it in D and plugged the wires in, the engine died. is it safe to run the engine with the wires unplugged? what is the shift assist for?"
 
"Even though you have a simila

"Even though you have a similar problem as Cathy, you should really start a new thread with your question. It sounds like you still have a shift cable problem. The ESA (electronic shift assist) is really to help you shift from Forward or reverse into neutral. Once you put it into the gear the shape and cut of the gears is such that they are hard to pull apart if there is a load on them. The shift assist is activated momentarily by a microswitch which causes the engine to stumble and drop in RPM's which takes the load off the gears and makes shifting into neutral much easier. By leaving it disconnected you will most likely experience much harder shifting into neutral, some guys find it so hard that they literally force the gearshift from forward right past neutral into reverse. This is very hard on the outdrive and will most likely shorten the life of it. Others find they end up having to shut the engine off to get it into neutral."
 
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