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Wiring help please

R

rich b

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"i have a 1971 searay 22'

"i have a 1971 searay 22' - 165hp straight 6cyl.i have replaced all gauges and put in a new fuse panel and all old wiring looks good up front.connected what wires went to what gauge when i took old one gauge out.tach wont work-key switch problems.1st click on key i have power to coil then when i turn it to start,starter turns over but no power to coil then as the key is comes back to the first postion the motor fires up.i have new-starter-starter solenoid-coil-wires-plugs.boat started fine last weekend.this weekend i was stranded.check wiring harness back to motor and everything fine.bought a clymers mercruiser repair manual for 75.00 to check wiring.and all my wires on the motor are backwards from the book.can anybody give me a wiring diagram of how everything goes on the motor and instrament panel.the person before me used wire nuts on wiring.hahahaha the repair manual doesnt even come close to where the wires go.please help.i want to re wire entire boat.cant be that hard.5 gauges-starter-starter solenoid-coil-distributor with points and condensor-alternator thats about it.can some one draw me a diagram.any thing will help.thank you"
 
"This wiring is from a SELOC m

"This wiring is from a SELOC manual covering 1964 - 1991 and is for model MCM 165, 170MR, 180 and 190MR engines. Note that wires that are not directly connected to the barrel plug have different gauges, depending on their current draw. The orange alternator wire is a 10 ga. for a 65 amp alt. or 8 ga. for a higher amp. alternator. The circuit breaker red wire and red w/purple stripe are either 10 ga. or 12 ga.; not sure.

On the engine barrel plug:

Pin #1 is black ground wire to the block, shift interrupter switch, and choke. The taps to this wire are made near the circuit breaker.

Pin #2 is a gray wire to the neg. side of the coil w/a white w/green stripe wire tapped to the other side of the shift interrupter switch.

Pin #3 is a tan wire to the temp sender

Pin #4 not used

Pin #5 is a purple wire to the choke assy.

Pin #6 is a red w/purple stipe wire to the large stud on the starter slave solenoid. The other large stud has a yellow w/red stripe wire to the starter solenoid.

Pin #7 is a yellow w/red stripe wire to the small stud on the starter slave solenoid. The other small stud has a purple w/yellow stripe wire to the positive coil stud without points ignition. A purple resistance wire runs from the choke to the + coil terminal w/points ign.

Pin #8 is a light blue wire to the oil pressure sender

Pin #9 does not have a reference

Pin #10 is a brown w/white stripe wire to the treminal block that the trim sender switch wires connect to. The other wire on the block is grounded.

Alternator stator two yellow w/red wires going to the voltage regulator. From the regulator, a 10 gauge wire runs to the starter solenoid and connects to the same stud as the battery red cable. A red w/purple stripe wire also runs from the voltage regulator to the circuit breaker. The other side of the breaker has a red wire running to the battery stud on the starter solenoid.
Send me an email and I'll copy the diagram to send to you.
Guy"
 
"my carb is a vacum choke &#40

"my carb is a vacum choke (no wires).my email is [email protected]. i know my alternator wire is red w/white stipe 8ga.all of my gauges work except tach.tryed to wire it and it stays pegged at 6,000 rpm.changed 4,6,8,switch on back of tach and its all the same.i have a one wire alternator.thank you very much for your help and the diagram.some memorial day weekend!!!!! working on the boat."
 
"Attach a wire from the base o

"Attach a wire from the base of the distributor to a known good ground point and see if the tach goes back to normal. The distributor needs to be grounded well in order for the boat to run and for the tach to be accurate. If it goes back to normal, you need to clean the area where the distributor meets the intake manifold."
 
thanks jim but the boat runs g

thanks jim but the boat runs great when i can get it started.starting problems with the key switch.read up above.thank you
 
"From the first post, it sound

"From the first post, it sounds as if the ignition wire is on the correct terminal but the crank wire isn't, or the bypass wire isn't in the right place on the starter, if that's how the motor is supposed to be wired. How many wires are at the starter solenoid location?

Have you contacted Sea Ray about the wiring for this boat? I won't guarantee that they have 35 years old diagrams but I would think that they wired a lot of boats the same way for a long enough time that someone in their technical department should know how to get yours wired correctly.

If you have a multi-meter or test light, have you checked for voltage/current at the crank terminal on the ignition switch? I would bet that there either is none or there's something that should be connected to the harness at the starter that isn't. The only reason the motor would start is that the flywheel keeps it turning and when the key is released, the coil energizes, which make this like push-starting a car and popping the clutch.

Guy- is there a fusible link, breaker or other safety device on the bypass wire? "
 
thank you also guy g but i ch

thank you also guy g but i checked the boat today and:starter has a red 4ga wire to battery.yellow wire 8ga to starter solenoid.tan 12ga wire going from starter to neg on coil also 2 brown 12ga wires to neg on coil.1 red wire 12ga pos on coil to distributor. 1 red wire with white stripe from alternator.also i have no shift interterrupt switch.i have old style shifter-half round- chrome-with one handle on left side.looked under and no wires go to it just cables.but it is really hard to shift to neutral.i just would like to rewire it all but all diagrams dont match my wire colors.i am positive it is original wiring harness i just think they are hooked to the wrong places.boat runs great after i get it started. i dont know. thank you again for the help.
 
i have a red power wire on key

i have a red power wire on key switch.2 white wires.one white wire turn starter over the other send juice to the coil.i took the juice wire and connected to the power and when the motor started i couldnt shut it off with the key. so i believe the key switch is right.
 
"Electrical problems can make

"Electrical problems can make you crazy quickly. If I was you for a 36 year old boat, I would buy a complete new standard engine harness and a new boat harness, and wire up the end connections according to the right wiring diagram. You can get the engine harness on ebay pretty cheap, with the correct colored wires. Your local boat dealer or any online order house should be able to source the boat harness. They come in various lengths.
This saves you all the hard work, and you get new everything, and you are sure to get the correct marine grade wiring, and the correct color coding. Otherwise, there is no way you will be able to duplicate some of the multi colored wire codes.
Note that the boat harness has only the 9 basic wires from the round 10 pin engine connector to the ignition switch, gauges, and throttle/shift control.
The accessory wiring harness for lighting, blower, bilge pump, horn, etc, and their related fuses, is usually provided by the boat manufacturer, and is non-standard. You may want to build this from scratch, though there are prebuilt accessory harnesses also available.
Rod"
 
"rich b:

By your descriptio

"rich b:

By your description of the wires and the bird nest condition of it, I do not have your boat's wiring diagram. I have the one described by Rod. I would go with Rod's suggestion; that is what I did on my 20 year old boat due to bad wiring. I also don't know if the original alternator for your boat was changed to a single wire by the previous owner along with some of the wiring since the colors don't match.

The new harnesses come with most wires labled for their connecting points. Make sure you tell them you have a single wire alternator to get the right harnesses. Also, request a copy of the wiring diagrams that they are selling you.

Measure the distance from under the dash to the stern. Then add 3' for the dash and 6' for the stern to that length for the primary harness to give you sufficient length to work with.

While you are at it, Rod's suggestion for the other harnesses is a good one to save you time and frustration with making the right connections and using the right gauge wires. Consider getting a new ignition switch, engine circuit breaker and engine/starter slave solenoid due to their age.

Guy"
 
i just want to thank all you g

i just want to thank all you guys for your help.thank you again guy and rod and jim. thank you
 
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