Stalling WOT

"hello
i have a 1974 searay w

"hello
i have a 1974 searay w/ford 302 188hp eng - she started stalling on me today at wot - she runs fine at 20mph and below but when i go wot she'll run ok for 2 to 3 min then sputter and stall like she's getting no fuel -- but -- then she'll start right up
i have a dual diaphram fuel pump w/sight glass -no fuel in glass,so the pump is ok -right?
also checked fuel filter at carb and it was clean
there is a new gas/water sep installed last month

when i winterized - i added stabilizer - and when i filled her up i used 93 octane with cdx2 lead additive

the carb is new/rebuilt -

any ideas ??"

You could "T" a pressu

You could "T" a pressure gauge temporarily in the fuel line close to the carb to check it out. If she is starving for fuel at some point in the power band that will tell for sure.
Rod

thanks rod

do you think it

thanks rod

do you think it could be the ign coil - as it has been years since a new one went in


will try the fuel pressue test tomorrow - pressure should be between 3-6psi right?

My old boat did that and it en

My old boat did that and it ended up being a broken wire between the ignition key and the coil. It would vibrate I guess enough under the higher load to break contact. I hate wiring problems in a boat!

yeah jason i know what you mea

yeah jason i know what you mean - actually - last year i had that problem - ign wire came loose at key switch while out on an adventure - without a tool box - took a bit to figure that one out - soooo i know about that type of problem

"Robert;
Right on the pressur

"Robert;
Right on the pressure. I would look for 2-3 psi minimum at high power, then you know you are OK.
Ignition coils last quite a long time. They are usually all or nothing.
Rod"

"Robert:
"dual diaphram f

"Robert:
"dual diaphram fuel pump w/sight glass -no fuel in glass,so the pump is ok -right?" Not necessarily. My old pump sight tube nipple was plugged with thick varnish--it was seeping and plugged itself. Probe the nipple with a plastic carb spray can tube. If you get gunk that looks like ear wax, spray carb cleaner into it until it comes out clean. Then see if it is leaking when you run it. Guy"

thanks rod and guy

guy - al

thanks rod and guy

guy - already cleaned the sight bowl passages as my bowl assembly was loose at the fitting and had to tighten it - in the process of taken it apart i broke the bail wire that holds the bowl to the frame - got a new one and fixed the problem
but
when i was having prob's with the carb elec choke i cut the resistor wire and replaced it with copper wire as it was getting really hot to the touch -
could this be part of the problem i am now faced with ?

"Robert: The wire that you re

"Robert: The wire that you replaced; was it from the choke to the coil--that would be the only resistor wire used to drop the 12 VDC to 6 VDC or less for the coil? If it was the 12 VDC circuit to operate the choke, I would think if that wire was getting hot, there is a problem with the elec. choke ground or the choke itself or the OLD WIRING is corroded causing the high resistance.

Measeure the voltage at the battery with a digital voltmeter. Then measure the voltage at the choke to ground. A voltage drop of more than 0.1 vots means there is a load in the circuit. Could be the wiring, the engine power solenoid would be a good place to do the same voltage test. See what voltage is on each side with the key on. Any drop at all means the wire connection is corroded or the wire is or the solenoid is worn out--replace it.

Also check both sides of the circuit breaker on the engine if you have one. I ended up replacing all the wiring and solenoids in my 87 boat due to corrosion, especially on the engine. The output from the alternator wire was shot, the exciter wire to the alt. was shot. Too many problems and the new harnesses fixed them all.

If you have good voltages, then I suspect the choke isn't functioning. Does it open wide after a few minutes?

Guy"

"ok thanks guy

but the iss

"ok thanks guy

but the issue at hand - is finally fixed - just came back in from a fast test ride - boat speed 36 mph - rpm 3600 - with more throttle to bear down --but -- the water in boston harbor was a little rough to be tossed around to much

i started with the fuel lines- all the fuel lines took em off and blew through them to clear but they were clear except for the main line from the water/gas sep to the tank - thought i was gonna blow my lungs out through my nose - anyway seems there is(WAS) a one way valve at the tank ,where it goes to the siphon tube , i took it off and blew any gunk off the tube screen then reattached all the line - i did notice that the line from the fuel sep. was dripping a tad and found a small pin hole at idle so i replaced the line and as i was buttoning it up i also noticed a freeze plug almost out of it's pocket and seeping water - knocked her back in and staked it -

whether it was the check valve or the loose fitting - can't tell as i didn't run her until i was finished - but she runs like a top - for now !!

thanks all
bob"