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57GS Seized after hydrolock

N

Nermie

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"Hi Guys,

Re: 5.7GS seized

"Hi Guys,

Re: 5.7GS seized (by rust?)

So, my engine got hydrolocked. Took the plugs, out, drained the water. I had recently been trying to start the engine. She just wouldn’t fire. (Had spark & fuel!!)

Time elapsed, now I cannot actually even turn the engine over anymore.

I've followed some of advice from my original post, and WD40'ed and oiled the cylinders thoroughly. Also got advice to use Penetrene (Mitre10)?
I've removed the water pump on the front to bar it over manually...

My neighbor is an engine mechanic with vgood *generic* engine knowledge; says this is the way to go... bar it over to clean out the minor rust... oil in cylinders to assist.

(Once it's turning freely, I can actually compression test it, and hopefully get it running.)

Is this the correct course of action? El Pescator? Scott?"
 
25year veteran auto and marine

25year veteran auto and marine NO Question did you drain or pump out oil and refill with fresh oil ; if you hydro locked somewater will bypass rings it is critical to remove all contamination as quickly as possible even a few days can be devastating especially so if salt or alkaline waters are involved the smallest drops of water can seize rings bearings lifters and pistons in cylinders putting WD in each cylinder and spinning engine over by starter with ignition disabled is just he start in past I did that with oiled removed to help free any moisture then made ready to run with fresh plugs and oil/filter brought up to temperature and if any doubts remained changed again just cheaper than new motor
 
"Nermie, your neighbour's

"Nermie, your neighbour's advice is good provided the salt has not caused any etching on the cylinder walls. Also, I agree 100% with the comments made by "Volvo Penta AQ131". When salt water has ingressed the cylinders, it is critical that you remove it, change the oil and filter, and re-start/run the engine as soon as possible."
 
"Thanks Guys,

Sounds like I

"Thanks Guys,

Sounds like I should change out that oil yesterday. Will do.

AQ131: To understand you correctly, you're recommending that I bar it over w/o oil, as well, to help free any moisture? Any way to know if the bearing lifters... have any damage?

ElPescator: How can I determine if the cylinders are etched?"
 
"So,
I've managed to get

"So,
I've managed to get my 5.7GS turning over, but she still won't start.
Plugs out and cleaned off the oil 5x, killed 2 batteries while cranking. She just won’t fire… just some sputtering.

Fuel OK, spark OK,… but no compression.

Compression is very low at 100 and 80 on cylinders 1,3. So, one of three things, I figure:

->Valves (seats)
->Rings
->Timing (hopefully)

TIMING:
I think this engine has a timing chain, located behind the balancer?
How can I easily check to see that valves are opening at exactly correct times? (Valve cover is off.)
Timing just might have jumped a few cogs/links/teeth, so it’s not quite firing right?

(I’ve already checked that plug is firing at APPROX TDC, so rotor cap positions for leads are OK.)

VALVES / RINGS:
Any easy way to check on these w/o taking off head?"
 
"Regarding timing, you can che

"Regarding timing, you can check that the timing marks in the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are aligned.

Regarding loss of compression, do a leakdown test to find out where the loss of compression is taking place.

Also, do not forget to check the condition of the lifters, since they may have been affected by the water ingress."
 
"So, after having confirmed th

"So, after having confirmed that the timing was OK, I finally ran some compression tests.

#1 - 115, 100
#3 - 75,80
#5 - 25
#7 - 25
Didn't go any further, as I figured 25 really meant trouble - rebuild type trouble.
So, what are my options, now?

1. ENGINE EXCHANGE
a) If I'm willing to "remove and refit" all the Volvo accesories, can I just buy a GM350, or "Mercruiser", or...?
b) Does the boat have to come out of water to remove the engine?

2. REBUILD THE ENGINE
a) Can this be done in place? Disassemble, lap valves... hone cylinders, new rings (new rods!)?

3. -More ideas here-
...

Thanks for your gents!
Norm."
 
"Have you done a leakdown test

"Have you done a leakdown test as I suggested? The compression test tells you that you have low compression, but a leakdown test will tell you where a leak is taking place. If the leaks are through valves or through head gaskets, you may not need to exchange the engine. And if the leaks are through pistons/rings, you still would have to investigate the condition of the block and moving parts.

If you want to pull the engine, you must do it out of the water.

And if you want a new or rebuilt long block or engine, have a look at this link to have an idea of what's available.

http://www.ebasicpower.com/engines/index.htm"
 
"Hi El Pescator,

I didn&#39

"Hi El Pescator,

I didn't have a compressor with a large enough volume to do the leak-down test; will have to ask my neighbor.
Would valve "rust" alone allow a compression of 20 psig to occur? Worried about something "very sinister".

Cheers."
 
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