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AQ125A270 problems

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bigmike

Member
"Greetings All,
I have the sa

"Greetings All,
I have the same symptoms as described in another thread, noise coming from bellhousing area. I read the information that was provided, but I have a question. Is there an exploded view of the bellhousing area, ie, bearings, shaft etc. I am taking the outdrive off (carefully of course) so I can try to see what is bad. I have a clymer's manual (it doesn't have an exploded view). I am hoping that it is the u-joints making the noise. The noise did seem to get louder when I turned. I just bought this boat and this was the first time I had it in the water. I realize that this topic comes up alot. Any help will be appreciated.

Mike"
 
I do not know if this will be

I do not know if this will be helpful but I had the same issue with the same set up. I would guess that the problem may be the intermediate bearing. I pumped in some grease and to my knowlege that had not been done in a few years. Afterwards the noise was no longer there. The grease fitting is just behing the motor and on the top of the bell housing.
 
"I'm pretty sure I need to

"I'm pretty sure I need to replace the ujoints and bearings. When I loosened up the drive bellows, a whole bunch of water came running out. There is a nice tear in the bellows (wish I'd have known this before I purchased the boat). I'm alittle frustrated with the cylmers shop manual, its a little vague. In the manual it states " Remove the fastener from the steering helmet on the top of the stern drive", well it goes on to saying that there are a couple of different fasteners. I have the one that has 2 bolts and a sleeve with two additional holes in it. Okay, I removed the two bolts, now what? Does the sleeve rotate out, do I take my 80lb sledge hammer and give it a whack? (just kidding of course). Also, another problem I have is it won't go into reverse. While looking at the drive, with the shift plate off, there is a rod that goes through to the other side of drive, it is hitting a plate that looks like it has springs attached to it. What would cause this plate to interfer with the rod, or is it supposed to be like that? As always, any help would be appreciated.

Mike"
 
"part 48 is reverse lock. that

"part 48 is reverse lock. thats not your problem. supposed to hit. that helmet #48 should move. find out why it won't and you have found your problem. for the steering helmet, take out the two bolts, screw two longer bolts ( 1/4 20 ) into the other holes. (they are threaded) and it will jack out. don't need to remove entirely, just 3/8s or so. then helmet will flip up."
 
"once upper is off, grab the i

"once upper is off, grab the intermediate shaft and try to move it side to side. if there is cany play, bearing is bad."
 
"as for the steering helmet, I

"as for the steering helmet, I don't think mine is threaded. The book says to take two rods that are the same diameter as the holes, bend them 90 degrees and work the fastener out. It sprayed it with lots of wd40 last night so I try when I get home. Any other pointers on getting it out?

Thanks for your help.

Mike"
 
"I had a similar problem last

"I had a similar problem last year. My U-joints needed rebuilt but it was the bad bearing that was the real problem. I laughed about the 80 lb sledge because you may actually need it to get that bearing out, we did. The easiest way is to pull the engine and pound it out from the inside. Mine came out but not before it shattered in about 10 pieces, it was froze to the bell housing."
 
"Okay, its apart. FYI for thos

"Okay, its apart. FYI for those who haven't done this, the two bolts that are spoke of, do thread into the smaller holes of the fastener. They are to jack out the fastener, BUT, if there is any junk in the holes, all the bolts do is compress the junk, bottom out and do nothing, absolutley nothing. Finally figured it out after a few choice words, banging my head against the garage door, saying, "but this is how they said to do it". Diagnosis - primary shaft bearing and seal are toast and u-joints are fubar'd. So I'll start ordering the parts to get it back together. I want to Thank You for all the help, I couldn't have done it without! Also, I fixed the reverse problem, cleaned and lube the lock, now it moves like its supposed to, allows it to go into reverse with no problem. More to come!

Mike"
 
"Hey Scott, Remember some of t

"Hey Scott, Remember some of the early bearing taps did NOT have the holes with the "jack" bolts. From what I remember, too many of us old f@@t mechs bitched about not being able to get the bearing tap out and they came up with the threaded holes. Pretty good idea on their part after the fact."
 
"Is there anything else you wo

"Is there anything else you would recommend replacing while I have this thing apart? From what I have read, the AQ125A and the AQ125B are the same on the outside, but different internaly, with this being said, am I'm safe to assume that when I'm search for parts on the internet and I see AQ125B/270, the parts would be the same?

Mike"
 
"Doc, was digging through some

"Doc, was digging through some old volvo parts yesterday, and found one of those. I have no idea why I saved it, but it now resides in pensacola bay."
 
"Okay, finally removed the eng

"Okay, finally removed the engine this weekend, what a joy. As I was removing the bellhousing, the ball bearings that were supposed to be in the bearing came rolling out. Upon inspection, there were no bearings left in the bearing, they were rolling aroung inside the bellhousing. Primary shaft looks good, ans as far as I can tell so does the bellhousing. I'm going to clean out the bellhousing when I get home.

I do have a couple of question though... The big rubber o-ring that is on the bellhousing, the one that seals up between the transom and the bellhousing, from the parts catalog, it says it takes two seals, I only have one. It looks to be in good shape, can it be reused? The exhaust bellows also look real good, will it be safe to reuse? The four allen bolts that hold the u-joint assembly in place, I was able to remove one bolt, but the other 3 are stuck, rounded out one of them, any ideas on how to get them out? I really don't want to use heat. More questions to come, enough for now. Thanks for your help.

Mike"
 
"Michael, you need two seals &

"Michael, you need two seals (part 37): one on the inside and one on the outside of the transom shield:

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1874&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,1862,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,1870,1886,1875,1877

You can re-use the old one if it is in good shape.

When it comes to the exhaust bellows, I suggest you should install a new one. If the bellows fails, then say goodby to the universal joints and bellhousing bearing. Fifty bucks will buy you peace of mind.

Regarding the allen bolts, you may have to briefly apply heat in the area where the bolt threads are. Make sure you are using the correct size of wrench for the two bolts with good heads; and regarding the one with the rounded head, you can try to drive in with a hammer either a slightly larger wrench or a torx bit of the right size to try to remove it. If it fails, you will have to drill the head, then remove the clamping ring and extract the remaining of the bolt either with a pipe wrench or a set of vise-grip pliers. And when you install the new ones, consider applying a coat of Perfect Seal to the threads and the shanks so that you never run into the same problem again.

Regarding the ball bearing in the crankshaft, it never turns; it just holds and guides the tip of the primary shaft. I hope this is the one that was NG, and not the one inside the bellhousing. You should be able to get a cheaper new bearing from a source other than VP, just keep the inner and outer races for dimensions verification if you cannot read the ball bearing number."
 
"the bearing that is in the cr

"the bearing that is in the crankshaft is good, the one in the bellhousing is the one that is fubar'd.

Mike"
 
"Then you are a very, very luc

"Then you are a very, very lucky guy. When those bearings go, the consequences are often catastrophic."
 
"I should back up a bit, I thi

"I should back up a bit, I think the bearing in the crankshaft is okay, I really haven't tried to remove the primary shaft. The seals, and the bearing that is in the bellhousing are gone. I will know more of the condition of the bellhousing when I get home and clean all the old grease and junk from inside the bellhousing. Thanks for your help.

Mike"
 
"I have a question regarding t

"I have a question regarding the primary shaft and the bellhousing. According the my very vague cylmer's manual, the bearing, seals and such get pressed into the bellhousing. Is this correct? Is there a proper way of doing this? My primary shaft is still in the flywheel. Is there a proper way of extracting a very stuck primary shaft? I just want to make sure I am doing this right. Your help is always greatly appreciated.

Mike"
 
"Mike, is the primary shaft st

"Mike, is the primary shaft stuck in the flywheel bearing or in the absorber splines? (part 31). If it is stuck to the absorber, remove first all six screws (33). Once the absorber is loose, chances are the shaft will come out easy from the ball bearing inner race (24) in the crankshaft.

To remove the primary shaft from the flywheel, you can try to remove the lock ring 25 first so that when you pull the shaft it will come out with ball bearing 24. You can remove the bearing afterwards.

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1862&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,1862,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,1870,1886,1875,1877

To install the bellhousing bearing and seals (I hope I remember this correctly) . 1) press in the seal on the engine side; 2) press the bearing into the shaft and install the small circlip to keep the bearing in place; 3) install one of the large circlips inside the bellhousing, the one closest one to the flywheel (you need either long nose pliers or circlip pliers for that); 4) put grease around the bearing and slide bearing and shaft into the bellhousing; 5) install the other large circlip (the one closest to the outdrive); 6) Press in the seal closest to the outdrive.

To install the seals, you can either use a large deep socket, or a seal driver tool."
 
"it seems to be stuck in the a

"it seems to be stuck in the absorber splines. I did take out the bolts that hold the absorber to the flywheel and then tried to get the primary shaft out, but I wasn't sure how much pressure (force) it would require to remove so I stopped. The absorber seems to also be stuck to the flywheel. It would be my luck, as soon as I pryed the absorber off, someone would say, no that's the wrong way. That's why I'm looking for your valued advise.

Should I replace the bearing and clip that is in the end of the crankshaft or do you think it will be okay?

Mike"
 
"The absorber is held in place

"The absorber is held in place by 6 screws and guided by 3 dowel pins (refer to above link). If you can remove the absorber from the pins, it should not be too difficult to pull the primary shaft from the crankshaft bearing inner race. I would not pry the absorber to remove it from the shaft (or absorber and shaft from the bearing), though, as it is made from thin gauge steel and you dont want to bend it. If you still have the inner race of the bellhousing bearing in place, that would be a better place where to apply some "persuasion".

Could you upload a picture showing the current condition of the shaft, absorber, etc?

Regarding the crankshaft ball bearing and clip, I would definitely replace the bearing and re-use the clip if still in good condition. And when reassembling, don't forget to grease the bearing and the splines."
 
"well, here you go.<[img]"http

"well, here you go.
81381.jpg
"
 
"maybe alittle WD40 and a big

"maybe alittle WD40 and a big hammer? just kidding. a little rusty colored, but other than that, it looks fine to me. But, what do I know.

Mike"
 
"Michael, if this was my engin

"Michael, if this was my engine, I would remove the 6 screws holding the absorber to the flywheel, then slide a putty knife between the absorber and each of the 3 locating pins (with the help of a small hammer if necessary) to make sure the absorber will slide out (spray the pins with a bit of WD40), then spray WD40 in the splines between shaft and absorber, then grab the ball bearing inner race on the primary shaft with a set of vise-frip, the give the vise grips a few hammer blows. I am confident that with such "persuasion" the shaft will become free either from the crankshaft bearing or from the absorber splines.
biggrin.gif
"
 
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