View Full Version : AQ125A270 problems
04-30-2007, 04:33 PM
I have the same symptoms as described in another thread, noise coming from bellhousing area. I read the information that was provided, but I have a question. Is there an exploded view of the bellhousing area, ie, bearings, shaft etc. I am taking the outdrive off (carefully of course) so I can try to see what is bad. I have a clymer's manual (it doesn't have an exploded view). I am hoping that it is the u-joints making the noise. The noise did seem to get louder when I turned. I just bought this boat and this was the first time I had it in the water. I realize that this topic comes up alot. Any help will be appreciated.
04-30-2007, 04:45 PM
"check out http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=group&gro up=1860&GroupList=1860 ("")
very helpful parts section"
04-30-2007, 05:43 PM
I do not know if this will be helpful but I had the same issue with the same set up. I would guess that the problem may be the intermediate bearing. I pumped in some grease and to my knowlege that had not been done in a few years. Afterwards the noise was no longer there. The grease fitting is just behing the motor and on the top of the bell housing.
04-30-2007, 10:48 PM
"I'm pretty sure I need to replace the ujoints and bearings. When I loosened up the drive bellows, a whole bunch of water came running out. There is a nice tear in the bellows (wish I'd have known this before I purchased the boat). I'm alittle frustrated with the cylmers shop manual, its a little vague. In the manual it states " Remove the fastener from the steering helmet on the top of the stern drive", well it goes on to saying that there are a couple of different fasteners. I have the one that has 2 bolts and a sleeve with two additional holes in it. Okay, I removed the two bolts, now what? Does the sleeve rotate out, do I take my 80lb sledge hammer and give it a whack? (just kidding of course). Also, another problem I have is it won't go into reverse. While looking at the drive, with the shift plate off, there is a rod that goes through to the other side of drive, it is hitting a plate that looks like it has springs attached to it. What would cause this plate to interfer with the rod, or is it supposed to be like that? As always, any help would be appreciated.
04-30-2007, 10:55 PM
"Okay, I just looked at a exploded view of the Intermediate Housing, it looks like part 3 is hitting part 48. thats what I was talking about a rod that goes through and is hitting a plate.
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1878&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,186 2,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,187 0,1886,1875,1877 ("")"
04-30-2007, 11:29 PM
"part 48 is reverse lock. thats not your problem. supposed to hit. that helmet #48 should move. find out why it won't and you have found your problem. for the steering helmet, take out the two bolts, screw two longer bolts ( 1/4 20 ) into the other holes. (they are threaded) and it will jack out. don't need to remove entirely, just 3/8s or so. then helmet will flip up."
04-30-2007, 11:31 PM
"once upper is off, grab the intermediate shaft and try to move it side to side. if there is cany play, bearing is bad."
05-01-2007, 01:54 PM
"as for the steering helmet, I don't think mine is threaded. The book says to take two rods that are the same diameter as the holes, bend them 90 degrees and work the fastener out. It sprayed it with lots of wd40 last night so I try when I get home. Any other pointers on getting it out?
Thanks for your help.
05-01-2007, 02:28 PM
"I had a similar problem last year. My U-joints needed rebuilt but it was the bad bearing that was the real problem. I laughed about the 80 lb sledge because you may actually need it to get that bearing out, we did. The easiest way is to pull the engine and pound it out from the inside. Mine came out but not before it shattered in about 10 pieces, it was froze to the bell housing."
05-01-2007, 04:18 PM
try the jack bolts. just to humor an old man.
05-01-2007, 05:44 PM
Will try the jack bolts when I get home!
05-01-2007, 07:46 PM
"thank you, I think I feel better now."
05-02-2007, 10:50 AM
"Okay, its apart. FYI for those who haven't done this, the two bolts that are spoke of, do thread into the smaller holes of the fastener. They are to jack out the fastener, BUT, if there is any junk in the holes, all the bolts do is compress the junk, bottom out and do nothing, absolutley nothing. Finally figured it out after a few choice words, banging my head against the garage door, saying, "but this is how they said to do it". Diagnosis - primary shaft bearing and seal are toast and u-joints are fubar'd. So I'll start ordering the parts to get it back together. I want to Thank You for all the help, I couldn't have done it without! Also, I fixed the reverse problem, cleaned and lube the lock, now it moves like its supposed to, allows it to go into reverse with no problem. More to come!
05-03-2007, 12:47 AM
"Hey Scott, Remember some of the early bearing taps did NOT have the holes with the "jack" bolts. From what I remember, too many of us old f@@t mechs bitched about not being able to get the bearing tap out and they came up with the threaded holes. Pretty good idea on their part after the fact."
05-03-2007, 10:28 AM
"Is there anything else you would recommend replacing while I have this thing apart? From what I have read, the AQ125A and the AQ125B are the same on the outside, but different internaly, with this being said, am I'm safe to assume that when I'm search for parts on the internet and I see AQ125B/270, the parts would be the same?
05-03-2007, 09:48 PM
"Doc, was digging through some old volvo parts yesterday, and found one of those. I have no idea why I saved it, but it now resides in pensacola bay."
05-21-2007, 04:17 PM
"Okay, finally removed the engine this weekend, what a joy. As I was removing the bellhousing, the ball bearings that were supposed to be in the bearing came rolling out. Upon inspection, there were no bearings left in the bearing, they were rolling aroung inside the bellhousing. Primary shaft looks good, ans as far as I can tell so does the bellhousing. I'm going to clean out the bellhousing when I get home.
I do have a couple of question though... The big rubber o-ring that is on the bellhousing, the one that seals up between the transom and the bellhousing, from the parts catalog, it says it takes two seals, I only have one. It looks to be in good shape, can it be reused? The exhaust bellows also look real good, will it be safe to reuse? The four allen bolts that hold the u-joint assembly in place, I was able to remove one bolt, but the other 3 are stuck, rounded out one of them, any ideas on how to get them out? I really don't want to use heat. More questions to come, enough for now. Thanks for your help.
05-21-2007, 05:31 PM
"Michael, you need two seals (part 37): one on the inside and one on the outside of the transom shield:
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1874&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,186 2,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,187 0,1886,1875,1877 ("")
You can re-use the old one if it is in good shape.
When it comes to the exhaust bellows, I suggest you should install a new one. If the bellows fails, then say goodby to the universal joints and bellhousing bearing. Fifty bucks will buy you peace of mind.
Regarding the allen bolts, you may have to briefly apply heat in the area where the bolt threads are. Make sure you are using the correct size of wrench for the two bolts with good heads; and regarding the one with the rounded head, you can try to drive in with a hammer either a slightly larger wrench or a torx bit of the right size to try to remove it. If it fails, you will have to drill the head, then remove the clamping ring and extract the remaining of the bolt either with a pipe wrench or a set of vise-grip pliers. And when you install the new ones, consider applying a coat of Perfect Seal to the threads and the shanks so that you never run into the same problem again.
Regarding the ball bearing in the crankshaft, it never turns; it just holds and guides the tip of the primary shaft. I hope this is the one that was NG, and not the one inside the bellhousing. You should be able to get a cheaper new bearing from a source other than VP, just keep the inner and outer races for dimensions verification if you cannot read the ball bearing number."
05-21-2007, 05:45 PM
"the bearing that is in the crankshaft is good, the one in the bellhousing is the one that is fubar'd.
05-21-2007, 05:53 PM
"Then you are a very, very lucky guy. When those bearings go, the consequences are often catastrophic."
05-21-2007, 06:37 PM
"I should back up a bit, I think the bearing in the crankshaft is okay, I really haven't tried to remove the primary shaft. The seals, and the bearing that is in the bellhousing are gone. I will know more of the condition of the bellhousing when I get home and clean all the old grease and junk from inside the bellhousing. Thanks for your help.
05-23-2007, 10:44 AM
"I have a question regarding the primary shaft and the bellhousing. According the my very vague cylmer's manual, the bearing, seals and such get pressed into the bellhousing. Is this correct? Is there a proper way of doing this? My primary shaft is still in the flywheel. Is there a proper way of extracting a very stuck primary shaft? I just want to make sure I am doing this right. Your help is always greatly appreciated.
05-23-2007, 12:05 PM
"Mike, is the primary shaft stuck in the flywheel bearing or in the absorber splines? (part 31). If it is stuck to the absorber, remove first all six screws (33). Once the absorber is loose, chances are the shaft will come out easy from the ball bearing inner race (24) in the crankshaft.
To remove the primary shaft from the flywheel, you can try to remove the lock ring 25 first so that when you pull the shaft it will come out with ball bearing 24. You can remove the bearing afterwards.
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1862&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,186 2,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,187 0,1886,1875,1877 ("")
To install the bellhousing bearing and seals (I hope I remember this correctly) . 1) press in the seal on the engine side; 2) press the bearing into the shaft and install the small circlip to keep the bearing in place; 3) install one of the large circlips inside the bellhousing, the one closest one to the flywheel (you need either long nose pliers or circlip pliers for that); 4) put grease around the bearing and slide bearing and shaft into the bellhousing; 5) install the other large circlip (the one closest to the outdrive); 6) Press in the seal closest to the outdrive.
To install the seals, you can either use a large deep socket, or a seal driver tool."
05-23-2007, 03:58 PM
"it seems to be stuck in the absorber splines. I did take out the bolts that hold the absorber to the flywheel and then tried to get the primary shaft out, but I wasn't sure how much pressure (force) it would require to remove so I stopped. The absorber seems to also be stuck to the flywheel. It would be my luck, as soon as I pryed the absorber off, someone would say, no that's the wrong way. That's why I'm looking for your valued advise.
Should I replace the bearing and clip that is in the end of the crankshaft or do you think it will be okay?
05-23-2007, 04:32 PM
"The absorber is held in place by 6 screws and guided by 3 dowel pins (refer to above link). If you can remove the absorber from the pins, it should not be too difficult to pull the primary shaft from the crankshaft bearing inner race. I would not pry the absorber to remove it from the shaft (or absorber and shaft from the bearing), though, as it is made from thin gauge steel and you dont want to bend it. If you still have the inner race of the bellhousing bearing in place, that would be a better place where to apply some "persuasion".
Could you upload a picture showing the current condition of the shaft, absorber, etc?
Regarding the crankshaft ball bearing and clip, I would definitely replace the bearing and re-use the clip if still in good condition. And when reassembling, don't forget to grease the bearing and the splines."
05-24-2007, 12:54 AM
"well, here you go.http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/81381.jpg"
05-24-2007, 12:58 AM
05-24-2007, 03:54 PM
"maybe alittle WD40 and a big hammer? just kidding. a little rusty colored, but other than that, it looks fine to me. But, what do I know.
05-24-2007, 04:05 PM
"Michael, if this was my engine, I would remove the 6 screws holding the absorber to the flywheel, then slide a putty knife between the absorber and each of the 3 locating pins (with the help of a small hammer if necessary) to make sure the absorber will slide out (spray the pins with a bit of WD40), then spray WD40 in the splines between shaft and absorber, then grab the ball bearing inner race on the primary shaft with a set of vise-frip, the give the vise grips a few hammer blows. I am confident that with such "persuasion" the shaft will become free either from the crankshaft bearing or from the absorber splines. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/biggrin.gif"
05-28-2007, 10:24 PM
Any new developments?
05-29-2007, 03:07 PM
"Unfortunately, I haven't had any time to work on it. The parts should be at my door step when I get home though. I do have a question...
when you remove the top of the outdrive (top cover, where the dipstick is), is there supposed to be a gasket or o-ring? mine has sort of a square rubber gasket, the book shows an o-ring. any ideas?
Guys... Thank You for your help!
05-29-2007, 04:59 PM
"The book (Seloc) shows a "gasket" in the exploded view (same as the parts book) but calls it an "o-ring" during the dismantling process. Don't loose any sleep about it. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/biggrin.gif"
05-31-2007, 10:56 AM
"Question.. how do you remove the u-joint assy? I removed the 4 allen bolts, and can not seem to free the housing. Any idea's? According to the book, there is nothing other than the 4 bolts that hold the housing in place. Did I miss something? part 38 are the bolts that I refer to, and they hold the housing in.
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1875&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,186 2,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,187 0,1886,1875,1877 ("")
05-31-2007, 04:29 PM
"or should I ask, does the upper drive need to be taken apart to get the u-joint assembly out?"
05-31-2007, 05:00 PM
"The 4 bolts is all what you need to remove, then tap the housing gently with a plastic or rubber hammer until it is out. No need to remove the upper gear housing."
05-31-2007, 05:47 PM
"Okay, what if we tried to gently tap the housing with a hammer and couldn't get it to move? Should it easily come out with the 4 bolts removed? There was alot of yuck (white powdery lookin stuff) on the bolts when we took them out. Had to use a small impact to remove the bolts. I just don't want to screw it up.
05-31-2007, 06:01 PM
"Well, you can then try using a stick of dynamite. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/rofl.gif Now seriously, I don't see any reason why it should not come out. However, once it comes out and you clean everything, remember to coat with "perfect seal" both the o-rings and runrrounding sourfaces that are not in contact with the outdrive oil; also, coat the bolts (shank and threads) so that they do not get seized."
06-02-2007, 12:27 PM
"update... finally removed the u-joint assembly, it was as if it was welded, what a royal pain. U-joints are done. Now for the rest.....
06-02-2007, 01:05 PM
"Well, you have made some headway http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/thumbs_up.gif. Any luck with the primary shaft removal?"
06-02-2007, 10:29 PM
"update(again).... got the primary shaft out, held what was left of the race with a pair of channel lock pliers and gave a few taps and it popped out. Bearing inside the crank looked okay, washed it out, lubed and left it. The inner bearing race was split in two. Cleaned the shaft, pressed on the bearing, installed the lock washer, and pressed it into the bellhousing. Bolted bellhousing up to engine and installed the engine today. Started hooking up the wire's but ran out of steam, I'm tired. I should be able to finish it tomorrow. Now I'm getting excited, the lake is just around the corner (barring any unforseen catastrophes)
more to come....
El P - Thank You so much for your help!!!http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/thumbs_up.gif
06-02-2007, 11:12 PM
You're welcome. I hope you get the boat in the water soon and that the trials are successful.
06-05-2007, 04:58 PM
"I have a AQ125A with a solex carburetor, is there a replacement caruretor that has a choke for my engine? I need to wait at the lanch ramp for the engine to warm up before I can put it in gear. I am getting lead thrown at me because I am blocking the ramp. Can someone let me know what the replacement carb is?"
06-05-2007, 07:18 PM
"I don't think there is even a choke available. When you first launch at the dock, throttle up a bit to warm up. You should be able to disengage the shifter and just use the throttle. shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to warm up. By the time you park the trailer, you should be ready to go. Now I'm not talking 2000 rpm's. just about 1000 or so should do it. Any moment now, El P should be here."
06-05-2007, 09:40 PM
"Solex carbs don't have a choke. Some people have gone to Weber, but I am not sure about the results. Check this:
I agree with Michael's suggestion, but you also may want to upgrade (if you haven't done so by now) to Pertronix electronic ignition. Smoother idle and almost no stalling problems when compared with points."
06-06-2007, 04:58 PM
"I do understand I could let the boat warm up while I put the trailer away, but the fisherman out west don't want me to clog up the ramp while I wait 5 to 10 minutes for the motor to warm up. I need a replacement carb with a choke. My motor starts right up but will not go until it is 180 degrees. Has anybody ever changed there solex carb to something that will drops in?"
06-06-2007, 11:25 PM
"another update. SHE LIVES!!! Got it running today, pur's like a kitten, no ugly sounds. Going to the lake saturday morning. Only problem I still have is it will not go into reverse real easy. That's a fix for another day. Again to all that have helped - http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/thumbs_up.gifhttp://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/thumbs_up.gif
06-06-2007, 11:28 PM
"If the fisherman can't wait - TOUGH! It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to warm up. If it keeps dying, I suggest you give it a tune-up and install the Pertronix electronic ignition like El P suggested. Happy boating!
06-07-2007, 12:42 AM
"Going to the lake without having good brakes, Michael? Tsk, tsk...http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/biggrin.gif Check that the shift cable is well adjusted and it is not stiff. In case of doubt, replace it, it is a one-hour job and it is not expensive.
Have fun and be safe."
06-07-2007, 11:28 AM
"I like to live on the wild side...http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/lol.gif
it's not the cable. It's in the locking pawl. The locking helmet(I think it's called) is not allowing it to go into reverse. Here is my take on it... when shifted into reverse, the rod that goes through, forces the helmet down and locks the outdrive from coming up. The helmet is not going down so the rod just hits it and keeps it from going into reverse. I can force it into reverse, but it doesn't lock. I'm assuming I need to take it apart and found out why. It will go into reverse, but not easy.
06-07-2007, 11:49 AM
"Mike, the topic of the reverse pawl not locking when going into reverse has been discussed before a few times. See if the following threads help:
06-10-2007, 11:56 PM
"thought I would share a quick update. Took the boat on a trial run yesterday. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/thumbs_up.gifhttp://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/thumbs_up.gifhttp://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/proud.gifhttp://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/proud.gif
More to come."
06-11-2007, 12:22 AM
"Now you are having fun, eh? http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/biggrin.gif
Well, I'm glad to see another happy ending. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/thumbs_up.gif"
06-11-2007, 10:53 AM
"Just have a few issue to address.
No reverse - will work on that this week. Overheating - temp gauge started to climb above 200. slowed down and temp went down. When I used the earmuffs will running in my driveway, I plugged the secondary hole in the bottom of the drive. That plug was accidently left in while at the lake so I'm not sure if it trully overheats or if it was operator error http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/blush.gif. Going out again this weekend so I'll check.
06-11-2007, 11:00 AM
Please keep us posted.
06-18-2007, 10:39 AM
"Happy belated Fathers Day to all you fathers out there. Kids and I took the boat to the lake yesterday, what a great day. Kids had a blast. Still have a overheating issue, but I think I know what it is. When I was just crusin around (2000 rpm), it ran around 140, when I went over 4200 rpm, it started heating up 220 and rising, I would back the throttle down to 2000 rpm, it would cool right down. I think it is part 28 and 29 shown here:
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1878&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,186 2,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,187 0,1886,1875,1877 ("")
When I removed the outdrive to replace the parts, I removed these so I would damage them. The connector was pretty worn out, but I put it back on anyway. So I think as soon as the boat starts to lift out of the water and exposes this part, it starts to suck air and kill the water intake, at least this is my take on it. What do you think?
Also, the reverse problem. When I got the lake and launched, I still had no reverse. Playing around all day, beaching, pull kids on tube and etc, I go to take off and on a whim, I decided to pull back on shifter to check, and what do you know I have reverse. I have no idea why, but reverse is working. Before I couldn't get the shifter to slide back into reverse, it kept binding, now, it slides back with no problem, so I'm going with it, it works, I'm not fixing it http://www.marineengine.com/discus/clipart/biggrin.gif
07-02-2007, 04:14 PM
"Just an update.... Had the boat at the lake a couple of times since last post. I did order new parts to fix the overheating problem. I am also going to replace the temp gauge and re-wire the new one.
The AQ 125a/270 is doing great. What a dependable motor, outdrive combination.
What is a safe RPM to run the motor at? 4200, 4500 or 4800. Just wondering.
Thanks again for all the help.
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