Logo

Voltage Regulator

W

WCP

Guest
" I have determined that I am

" I have determined that I am not getting any output from the alternator on my 1965 Chris Craft 431. (Bat voltage with engine off is 12.32 volts, but with engine running, it is 12.15 volts) I believe that the issue is not with the alternator itself, but with the external voltage regulator (which is badly corroded after a partial sinking last year, and after which event, the problem began. Also note that the alternator was NOT submerged).

I purchased an electronic voltage regulator (a Regitar GR540A) through an aftermarket supply house (thinking that, in a marine environment, the less mechanical parts, the better!), but the connections appear to be somewhat different. The new one has 4 spades, labeled I, A, S and F.

The existing regulator has 4 spades, plus a ground stud. These are labelled "IGN" (OK - Ignition, likely maps to I on the new one); "FLD" (wire goes to the "F" stud on the alternator, but what does it correspond to on the new one? I assume ?F? on the new one); "ARM" ( wire goes to the "B" stud on the alternator, but what does it correspond to on the new one? I assume ?A? on the new one) and, finally "BAT" (two wires, leading into a bundles wiring harness ? I assume they ultimately lead to a battery connection, but, again, what does it correspond to? The only spade left on the new one is ?S? ? is this for ?supply? or what?).

Anyone have any thoughts here? I do not know much about automotive/marine electrical systems, but thought this was going to be a quick swap in ? swap out operation. Should I seek professional assistance before really screwing things up, or is this just an easy question of mapping the connections?

Thanks! "
 
Back
Top