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About to take the plunge

pugetsounder

Advanced Contributor
"OK I am looking at buying a b

"OK I am looking at buying a boat tomorrow. It is a 1978 Bayliner open bow with a VP280 outdrive and a AQ151 4 cyl. I went to look at it a couple of weeks ago but the starter conked out and would'nt turn over. The boat itself seems in pretty good shape. From what the guy selling it says it is not the original engine the shop guy told him it is an early 90's with freshwater cooling. The outdrive seems to work fine, easy shifting and all. One question I have is are these a fairly reliable engine? I've done some research on the outdrive and it seems they are one of the best out there. He said he got the engine running with the new starter and it starts up quick and runs smooth. I want to do some simple tests on it tomorrow before I take possession.

I plan on doing a compression test. What PSI range should I be looking for?

I plan on warming it up and checking out how the cooling system is performing.

I will check the water for oil and oil for water.

Is there anything else I should check for the engine?

What should I check on the outdrive? So far it shifts easy and spins but I haven't seen it run under power. I think for under $2000 it might be a pretty good boat if all checks out OK. The trailer is a really nice heavy duty EZ loader galvy with brakes.

Thanks for any suggestions.

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1978 Bayliner Admiralty"">
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1990s AQ151 Volvo Penta with original 280 outdrive
 
"Hi.

The 280 outdrives are


"Hi.

The 280 outdrives are virtually indestructible. Just remember to drain the oil and look for metal particles on it. If all is fine, fill it with new oil (same grade as the engine) and off you go. Also, make sure that the clamshell-like connector for the raw water hose is not corroded; if you find it in bad or questionable condition, replace it, they are not expensive.

The engine is fairly reliable, but make sure that the timing gears are not pitted or they will eat the timing belt in no time. Also, expect to find corrosion in the head (exhaust ports 3 and 4) if the engine has been running in salt water.

The compression range is 142 to 170 psi according to SELOC.

One bit of advice: check that the transom and the stringers are in good condition. You don't want to buy a rotted boat."
 
"Not so fast, Jeff!<[img]"http

"Not so fast, Jeff!
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In the surface, all may look good. However, we are talking about a 29-year old <u>Bayliner</u>, and my guess is that if the transom, floors and stringers have not been recently redone, there is a good chance they are rotted. Remember that, in the 70s and 80s, Bayliner's quality was very questionable to say the least."
 
"Thanks for the info. I did bu

"Thanks for the info. I did buy the boat. The boat itself is in great shape for its age. The hull, transom and stringers are in good shape. I've had a lot of friends and family who have owned Bayliners over the years and the general concensus is that this is a good year. It was the 1980's Crapi (Capri) models where they went cheap. My uncle has owned three 1970's models and still swears by them for quality and ride.

I did a compression test it was lower than what El Pescador said but even (130 psi) in all 4 cylinders. It started right up and ran smooth and accelorated quickly. It was fairly quiet and the oil pressure was between 60 and 75 from idle to revved up. No missing at all. After doing more research it is not a AQ151 it is a AQ 140 w/ freshwater cooling and dual carbs. All I know at this point is it's not the original engine it is a 1993. I still have to pick it up and bring it home but I will do more indepth research to find out exactly what it is. I paid $1750 for the whole package, I think the trailer is worth almost that. It has a newer galvy 4000lb axle with new tires. I don't want to sound selfish but I hope I don't have any experiences to share except for proper maintenance! Thanks again."
 
"Well, good for you. I stand c

"Well, good for you. I stand corrected, it really looks now that you got a hell of deal!"
 
OK one last question for this

OK one last question for this thread:

Clymer or Seloc? Which is the best manual? Anybody want to weigh in?
 
"Both, if you can afford them,

"Both, if you can afford them, as one complements the other. Otherwise, I would recommend Seloc."
 
"Hmm, looks like I may end up

"Hmm, looks like I may end up with three manuals. The Clymer is all inclusive but the Selocs are more divided up by year. Since my outdrive is a 1978 and the engine is supposedly a 1993, Seloc has two different manuals. I guess my first task is to take the serial numbers off the engine to find out exactly what I have. BTW Amazon has some good prices on used manuals. Thanks for all the resonses."
 
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