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AQ125A timing beltmarks alignment

R

randyj

Regular Contributor
Still trying to get this motor

Still trying to get this motor started with no luck. I'm fairly convinced that the timing belt has been installed incorrectly.... is there a way to identify that the camshaft and crankshaft and anything else is in the correct position? So far I've not been able to decipher my manual good enough to tell what I'm supposed to be looking at. The camshaft marks do not line up at the same time the crank's key way or timing marks line up... what's the clue? I don't want to have to tear it down to see if it's correct... something's wrong 'cause all it will do is backfire & sputter.
 
"I suggest You tear it down ag

"I suggest You tear it down again and start all over. The only way to be SURE You have the marks lined up. Crank mark down, cam mark up (at the notch), timing wheel mark as cyl 1' in ign (point starts open). If You have the original belts with marks, it is difficult to miss."
 
"This is the way the boat came

"This is the way the boat came to me. As it is, when the timing mark on the crankshaft belt pulley is on 10 deg BTDC the rotor button is pointing at #1 spark plug wire. The flywheel key is something like 45 degrees to the left. When the camshaft marks are aligned I'm thinking from memory that the flywheel key is straight up... Looks like I'm gonna have to remove the pulley to see these marks shown in the book..."
 
"Dont take the pulley off. The

"Dont take the pulley off. The crank notch and dampener notch do not line up. ( I went through this about a year ago) Note picture:
Route the timing belt lining up the timing marks on the pulleys to the stripes on the belt. Do not reuse the old belt, tahts why it lost timing because it jumped teeth like mine did. For what ever reason, I didnt have a timing dot on the top pulley, so I had to verify if the #1 valve was open or not when the rotor was pointed at #1. This is a non-interference motor so if you don't get it the first time its no big deal. Once you get the belt lined up and tensioned down, recheck the alignment. If correct, it should put the dampener notch in the close to the right area when the cover is reinstalled. It took me 3 or 4 times of reinstalling it to get it right but when I did, that little motor is still running great. Good luck.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/bsturkie/Timing.jpg""
 
"The notch is on the belt gear

"The notch is on the belt gear on the crank, You need to take the damper off to be able to see it. It is a dent stamped in front on one of the teeth. The same goes for the cam gear and timing gear. Use an original belt with marking (yellow lines), and You get it correct the first time. You probably save more in aggrevation buying an original belt than what You may save in bucks buying an un-original without marks and doing the job several times!"
 
"Thanks guys... I hope I get a

"Thanks guys... I hope I get a chance to work on it tomorrow... I'll be taking plenty of pictures of this one. I know there has to be information some where that shows the correct positions of the gears & pulleys when one or the other timing marks are lined up. That "marks on timing belt" is a crop of BS....and a good way to sell lots of belts. I do mark belts when I take them off..but always set up the timing by marks on the engine....hmmm, weird."
 
"Randyj, I suggest you consult

"Randyj, I suggest you consult the Seloc/Clymer manuals regarding the installation of the timing belt and you will save yourself a lot of headaches and guessing."
 
Yep. I did that. Very poor i

Yep. I did that. Very poor instructions but I can figure out how to do it from the info...It doesn't clearly tell what to do if I have an old belt with no marks... Hopefully I can get #1 piston at TDC and get correct position of cam and intermediate shaft w/ rotor button at #1 plug wire.
 
"Just line-up the timing gears

"Just line-up the timing gears' dots with the marks in the block and the timing belt will slide in nicely. In fact, you won't even have to look at any marks on the timing belt!!!"
 
So...if I turn crank till cam

So...if I turn crank till cam notches line up then take off the cranksaft pulley I should be able to see a mark on the block which should line up with a mark on the timing belt gear???? And this dot on the intermediate shaft gear should also align with a mark behind the gear?
 
"You have three marks: One on

"You have three marks: One on the block that should line-up with the notch in the plate by the crankshaft gear (or with the dot in the gear); one mark on the cylinder head that should line-up with the mark in the plate by the camshaft timing gear (or withe the dot in the gear); and one dot in the idler gear that should line-up with a mark in a plate attached to the block. Once you have the three marks aligned, just slide the timing belt and you are done. And if you want to know whether you are at the end of the compression or of the exhaust stroke, just remove the head valve cover and have a look at the position of the intake and exhaust cams in #1 cylinder.

"
 
"Yep...got it torn down...defi

"Yep...got it torn down...definitely jumped time. The tension idler froze/rusted..so it had a reason for it.

Now... do any of you guys have a tension idler pulley for an AQ125A? volvo part #831986 ???
I'll also be needing a carb kit with accelerator pump, impeller, probably need to go ahead and put in a thermostat too. If ya got'em for a good price let me know."
 
"The marine pulley is the same

"The marine pulley is the same as the automotive version. You should be able to get it new from an autoparts store for $30 - $40.

http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?ye ar=1982&make=VO&model=240--002&part=Timing%20Belt%20Tensioner&dp=false


Carb kit is Sierra part 18-7000, and you can obtain it from this site:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-7000&returntopage= 80240775.htm


The impeller is also available from this site:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-3075&returntopage= 80240761.htm

and so is the thermostat:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-3666&returntopage= 80240761.htm"
 
"I replaced my idler with an a

"I replaced my idler with an aftermarket automotive one, same with the timing belt and thermostat. Make sure you clean any rust off from the belt drive sprockets or it may jump again."
 
"If the timing gears are pitte

"If the timing gears are pitted, just replace them with the automotive version; you can get them cheap at an autowrecker specialized in Volvo. Afterwards, spray them well with Fluid Film or Quicksilver Corrosion Guard a couple of times a year so that they do not get corroded again."
 
"Thanks alot guys. The dealer

"Thanks alot guys. The dealer's price was near $80 for that idler. My auto machine shop supplier of engine parts no longer stocks it as my marine supply place. The only place I could find it was online at autopartswarehouse.com and they were by cheaper than everyone except my engine parts guy (he was $1 cheaper on the timing belt) but couldn't even get the idler. It was available thru one of the chain stores, either Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone...don't remember which. Hopefully I won't need the gears. I will clean them with a wire brush and coat them with something besides oil to preserve them a little & protect the belt. Thought about going to Pull-A-Part in Birmingham to get all the parts but it's over an hours drive... I'll probably end going there to get another engine before it's all over... can get one out of the junk yard for about $110 but will have to pull it myself...probably should've done that already but it took a while just to figure out which auto motor it is equivalent to."
 
"The timing marks I see for be

"The timing marks I see for belt alignment are...a notch on a flange at the back of the cam gear which aligns with a notch on the valve cover, a dot on the face of the intermediate shaft gear which aligns with a notch in the plate behind the gear at about 90 degrees and is more or less V -shaped. I assume the dot should alighn at the straight or hoizontal part of this notch... and then there's the mark on the block more or less centered above the crankshaft gear which aligns with the notch in the flange behind the gear... hopefully this is what I'm supposed to be seeing. I did find the marks on the old belt but they're very light/faded. Got a new one coming with the idler.... all the other parts came in yesterday (thermostat, impeller, carb kit). So, Looks like a project for next week.. then get it running...repair the rot, buy new seats, then do upholstery repair. This $200 boat is gonna cost me $2,000 if I'm lucky...but I'll have a very nice boat that I can leave in the water during the winter. I HOPE!!!!"
 
"Randyj, Seloc has three very

"Randyj, Seloc has three very clear pictures showing how to align the marks (pages 3-60 and 3-61). Also, a procedure "for dummies" regarding the timing belt installation is explained in pages 3-61 and 3-62. You can't go wrong by following it.

If the gear grooves are pitted, cleaning them won't work: they will destroy the new timing belt in a few hours.

To calculate the final costs of boat projects, I personally use the following formula: double my inital estimate, then add 20%. Unfortunately, the figure I get this way is (more often than not) fairly accurate."
 
I wish I had the Seloc rather

I wish I had the Seloc rather than the Clymer in that case... I'll clean the gears then take a more serious look.
 
"It will not start! It will k

"It will not start! It will kinda sorta try to start. Have not assembled cooling system but wanted to try to get it to start and run before completeing assembly. I'm sure I'll need to rebuild the carbureator before it will run like it should but so far it only hits & will not catch up or actually "run". Occassionally it will backfire. I've cleaned & set the points @ .016, new plugs, timing belt is exactly where it is supposed to be. Compression is not perfect but is good enough to start the motor. I'll be re-checking that today and cleaning up the inside of the distributor. Any helpful hints??? I'm thinking about next checking the valve clearance. I've been pouring a little gas down the carbureator to get it started just like I've done a gazillion times before on vehicle motors I've built."
 
"Pouring a little gas may have

"Pouring a little gas may have the opposite effect than the one you are looking for. If you are completely sure that you have installed the timing belt correctly, make sure you have installed the ignition wires in the right spark plugs; remember that the firing order is 1-3-4-2 and that the distributor turns clockwise. If OK, then you may have to play a little with the ignition timing until you get the engine to start. If the engine is backfiring, you may have to remove the distributor and reinstall it one tooth advanced or retarded, then try to start the engine again. The ignition timing should be between 4 and 10 degrees BTDC depending on the type of gasoline you are using."
 
"Thanks... it does sound like

"Thanks... it does sound like a timing backfire to me too, but I'm very very certain that the belt marks & timing belt are all correct. I loosened the distributor yesterday but it was pretty much frozen inplace so I doubt it has ever been moved. I'll tinker with it a bit this evening to see how it does."
 
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