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Mercruiser 165 dies in reverse

B

Brian Jennings

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"hi
my father and i just got


"hi
my father and i just got a 1970 Penn Yan with a mercruiser 165 with a cracked block. we replaced the motor and now it seems to run fine but when we put it in reverse it dies as soon as we give it any throttle. it will run in reverse at an idle but wont rev up at all. there is a switch on the shifter part, but im not sure where it goes.

help?
thanks"
 
"switch on shifter is cutout s

"switch on shifter is cutout switch. if not adjusted properly, can cause this. when it dies, take a look and see if the roller is out of the notch. if so go thru adjustment procedure. do it by the book, don't just start guessing. You can do a lot of damage if You get it wrong. I thought penn yan's were inboard."
 
Yes he's right cuz if its

Yes he's right cuz if its not adjusted properly it would do that. the shift s/w allows the gearcase to shift easier by cutting the motor off for a split second when shifting.
 
You might need a new shiftcabl

You might need a new shiftcable if adjusting doesn't fix it.
 
"thanks,

is the adjustment


"thanks,

is the adjustment on the switch or on the shift cable? does anyone have any suggestions for adjusting it as we don't have a book to go through the adjustment process?"
 
"[b]"we don't have a b

""we don't have a book to go through the adjustment process?"

Get 1,........ You Need it,+ you Can't do Anything Without it......."
 
"ADJUSTMENT OF LOWER SHIFT CAB

"ADJUSTMENT OF LOWER SHIFT CABLE:


1) Be sure the pre set 6" length from tip hole to barrell (center to center) has beeen set and do not change.


2) Remove the forward shift cable from the shift arm assy.


3) Put shift box into forward gear.


4) Test feel the muvement of the springloaded metal piece that trips the easy shift switch.


4a) It should move freely from stop to stop with no resistance except the return spring.


4b) It should stay in the center with the switch roller in the middle of the valey on the end of the metal arm.


4c) When pushed either way it should feel only light spring pressure to the stop.


5) Move the shift arm with the lower shift cable attached to collapse the cable to its shortest position (fwd gear)


6) While moving the cable to its shortest position the prop must be rotated counter clock wise to the stop.


7) When the prop is jamed against the stop counter clock wise, and the cable compressed, this if full forward position.


8) With the arm in the above position adjust the forward cable barrell to just fit between the studs.


9) All slack should be eliminated but excess tightness will unseat the roller on the shift assist switch (this is not good).


10) Ideally the roller should stay in the center, but if you move the metal bar that operates the easy switch you should feel pressure.


10a) By pressure I mean you are forcing the cable before you hit the stop, it feels different than step 4c.


11) This is the forward adjustment.


12) To adjust reverse; Remove the tip of the lower cable from the stud on the tip.


13) Shift control into reverse gear.


14) Pull on the tip of the lower cable while turning the prop cw to the stop.


15) This is full reverse position.


16) Move the stud that the cable mounts to up or down the slot to fit the cable, do not shorten the cable to fit the stud.




IF THE STUD RUNS OUT BEFORE THE CABLE IS TIGHT THERE ARE TWO POSSIBLE REASONS:


1) You have gone too far; if you put it as tight as it goes and it feels almost tight enough, you can back off of forward to balance the adj.


2) Slack in the shift chain of linkage (bad cable, loose connection between parts, or old lower shift shaft, loose slide)




To check for the above problems there are three procedures:


Procedure #1 (Lower Unit parts wear)


1) Put the lower cable in full forward, stand on the prop blade to lock the shifter.


2) In this condition the shift cable should move very little; if you can slide it any distance, something is giving or shifting.


3) Determine what two parts are making the slack and replace them.




Procedure #2 (Not enough travel in shift arm) MOST COMMON FIX!


If the cable adjustment in 16 is not far off, drill a new hole in the arm to accept the stud. Or you can elongate the existing hole.




Procedure #3 (Problems in the shift box up front.)


Many shift boxes have adjustments to make them universal. Sometimes people use the wrong adjustment shortening the travel of the box. The common problem with this issue is lack of cable travel.


1) Check if the arm behind the shifter that holds the shift cable is in two pieces.


2) If it is in two pieces be sure it is fully extended.


3) The farther out the cable is mounted the farther it travels.


4) Some arms are multiple drilled, make sure the cable is in the outermost hole, or is there room to drill another further out?


If the tests above do not indicate a problem then the other adjustments in the box and arm should correct shifting"
 
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