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TO THOSE THAT HAVE OLDER VOLVOS 280 IO

C

CLIFF STEELE

Guest
" THE OLD AND WELL BUILT 280 I

" THE OLD AND WELL BUILT 280 I/O BY VOLVO..SINGLE PROP...HAS BEEN AROUND FOR OVER 26 YEARS. OURS HAS BEEN DOING ITS JOB GOING INTO THE 25 SEASON. A FEW TIPS THAT MAY SAVE YOU SOME EXPENSIVE DOWN TIME. REPLACE THE LOWER UNIT OIL WITH A GOOD GRADE 40 WEIGHT. IN THE NEW YEARS I USED THE RECOMMENDED ENGINE WEIGHTS. CHECK THE BOOTS EACH SEASON..AND WHEN STORING FOR THE OFF SEASON A SPRAY CAN OF VINAL PROTECTOR SPRAYED OVER THE PRESSURE WASHED BOOTS CAN GIVE YOU MANY MORE YEARS OF SERVICE. IF YOU DO HAVE A CRACK IN EITHER BOOT ITS NOT ALL THAT HARD TO REPLACE IT YOURSELF AT THIS TIME YOU MAY WANT TO INSPECT THE UNIVERSAL JOINTS...AS I HAVE MENTIONED A REPLACEMENT ASSY CAN BE FOUND AT THE LOCAL AUTO STORE. THESE WILL ALSO COME WITH ZERKS..AS THE VOLVOS DON'T I BELIEVE THE ONES IV'E INSTALLED ARE ON THE 12 SEASON..AND WORK WELL. THE NEXT SUGGESTION IS VERY IMPORTANT !THE "JACK SHAFT"..A SHAFT FROM THE MOTOR TO THE I/O IS BURIED IN A SPOT YOU WILL NEVER FIND. A SMALL RED SLOTTED SCREW HIDES A VERY IMPORTANT LUBERCATION AXCESS AREA. LOOKING CAREFULLY AS YOU CRAWL TOWARDS THE TRANSOM AREA LOOK CAREFULLY AT THE UPPER PART OF THE BELL HOUSING. ON THE TOP IS WHERE YOU WILL FIND THIS MOST IMPORTANT SCREW. A LARGE BEARING SITS IN SIDE THIS AREA AND SHOULD BE GREASED YEARLY. I REMOVED THE SCREW..ABOUT 3'8'S IN SIZE..MATCHED THE THREADS TO A ZERK FITTING AND REPLACED THE SCREW WITH THIS ZERK FITTING. ALL ONE NEEDS TO DO IS GREASE THIS ZERK..A FEW 2 OR 3 STROKES A SEASON....ADDING TO MUCH CAN POP THE REAR SEAL (SEEN WHEN THE OUT DRIVE IS REMOVED FROM THE BACK. I FOUND OUT ABOUT THIS SHAFT AND BEARING A FEW YEARS AFTER WE HAD THIS DRIVE...ANOTHER POOR SOUL HAD TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE MOTOR AT GREAT EXPENSE (OVER $2,000) AFTER ONLY 3 YEARS. SADLY NEITHER THE PARTS BOOKS...OPERATORS MANUAL OR ANY OF THE SERVICE MANUALS DISCUSS THIS BEARING AND THE ASSOCIATED GREASE REQUIREMENTS.
A FEW EXTRA PARTS THAT I HAVE CARRIED FOR MANY YEARS MAKE IT WORTH WHILE IF YOU HAVE A BREAK DOWN. I CARRIED A SEA PUMP FOR 23 YEARS..THE BEARING FAILED ON LAKE SUPERIOR WITH NO WARNING.. NEAR THE OUTER ISLANDS..PULLED THE PART OUT OF A BOX,INSTALLED IT IN 30 MIN AND WERE ON OUR WAY. I NOW CARRY ANOTHER SPARE...BUT DOUBT ILL BE ALIVE TO INSTALL IT. EXTRA BELTS...A COIL,CAP AND POINTS ARE NICE ALSO. ALL THE HARDWARE TO HOLD ON A PROP..CONE,SCREW & SPACER. A FULL SET OF TOOLS IS ALSO GOING TO SAVE YOU A LOT OF PROBLEMS. ALL AND ALL THE 280 I/O IS GOING TO BE AROUND FOR SOME TIME YET.PARTS WILL ALSO BE OUT OF SIGHT I FEEL...OR EVEN SCARCE IF AT ALL. i HAVE OWNED 3 OTHER BOATS..ALL GOOD BOATS AND MOTORS..ITS JUST THAT THE 280'S WERE BUILT EXTREMELY WELL AND WAY OVER RATED FOR MOST OF THE BOATS THEY WERE INSTALLED ON. SAFE BOATING ! CLIFF "
 
" The first thing I did when I

" The first thing I did when I purchased my boat is check the bell housing grease point for the gimbal bearing. The hole was completely blocked from lack of use (or no use)and the bearing was extremely rumbly. The local bearing shop supplied me with stainless steel bearing, c clips and seals
(tention springs). The genuine vp bearing was NOT stainless steel and much more expensive. It pays to do a little homework before buying parts. I agree with you that the 280 is a strong and reliable leg and hope that parts will be available for many years to come. I decided to do the job myself and although apprehensive it has been very rewarding and easier on the hip pocket. "
 
" I have a aq125/a Volvo/penta

" I have a aq125/a Volvo/penta 270 out drive. Year 1985. I need help. I'm getting water in the drive, and out drive oil is getting into the u joint boot, also put a new boot on and ran the boat one time, now I have a big hole in it. The u joint assy looks bad, could this be the problem? Help please before I go nuts. "
 
" Jim, a common cause of the b

" Jim, a common cause of the bellow (u-joint boot) tearing is running the outdrive while raised or partially raised, the u-joints 'clips' the bellow and before long you have got a hole for water to enter. Water can also enter via the prop shaft seal, lower housing gasket, upper housing gasket & selector housing seal. All need to be checked as part of regular maintenance. Water (especially salt) WILL cause expensive damage so I suggest finding the source of entry and clean out the outdrive. A good, easy to read, manual is Clymer B770, it covers your model in great detail. "
 
" Thanks Aldo, I will check it

" Thanks Aldo, I will check it out. But why is the O/D oil going into the boot now. Is there a seal I need to replace. Thanks again Jim "
 
" The top of the outdrive &#40

" The top of the outdrive (or head) does have seals & gaskets to stop oil from entering the u-joint area. The manual I suggested has very detailed "exploded" views of this area. If water is getting into the outdrive (without leaking out again) it will raise the level of the oil, it has to go somewhere. Look for telltale oil leaks when boat is on trailer (leg lowered), if oil is leaking out then water will get in. Good luck "
 
" Need to replace the oil seal

" Need to replace the oil seals at the prop shaft of a 280 leg
Can,t get the hub to come out of its housing.
I have tried a sliding hammer atatched to the prop but it only moved 1/16" and then stuck

Any suggestions
Davie "
 
" I have an '83 22' no

" I have an '83 22' nordic w/ a volvo 290 engine (chevy 350) and a Volvo 280 outdrive. The engine siezed and is currently being rebuilt. The volvo oil cooler is full of junk and rather than paying over $500 for an new volvo oil cooler, can I use an aftermarket cooler? Hardin Marine makes a cooler for about $125 but it is considerably longer, will that one work? how can I get it to fit? Will I need to have new hoses made to fit the NPT connections on the cooler? The current hoses have a compression type fitting. It's hard to find a dealer that really knows these old volvos.

Thanks,
George Ortega "
 
" I have just purchased a boat

" I have just purchased a boat with twin 350 chev engines and 280 volvo legs. Both engines rotate the same way. The insurance company wants the distributors changed from automotive to marine type. Question : Is it possible and would this be a good time to change one engine to counter rotating, what would be involved in doing so and would there be much advantage in the change.
Thanks, Bill "
 
" Hi Bill.
As i recall there


" Hi Bill.
As i recall there is no need to do that.
The 280 doesent have a "prefered" rotary direction.
By the way its quite funny to see ya yanks treat these old volvos like they are something that drooped down from the moon!Here in sweden these engines has been the most used in cars,parts availability is really great at the junkyards
its only the marine parts you need to by from penta. "
 
" Reverse the drive, not the e

" Reverse the drive, not the engine. Marine distributors are available from most performance speed shops and go under the name Mallory. Difference is the cap is sealed with a full gasket.

To reverse a engine rotation is not that hard but requires more money than it is worth. You have to put in a reverse rotation camshaft, reverse rotation starter, water pumps, alternators, reconfigure your ignition harness, realign and mark timing marks, and about a hundred other things.

Reversing rotation on a 270 or 280 is easy. Remove the lower screw on the back cover of the drive, loosen the top screw of the cover about 4 turns, pull the bottom of the cover away from the drive. Inside you will see a shaft running from the bottom to a bell crank on the transmission. Simply remove the arm from one side and reinstall it the same way on the opposite side. Use new stainless cotter pins. Remove and store your now spare prop, and install a reverse rotation prop in it's place. reinstall the cover. Check the exhaust housing's trim tab and note if it is turned (counters steering torque on the drive). Offset it the same amount from straight to the opposite side.


Good luck. "
 
I have a volvo 280 outdrive w

I have a volvo 280 outdrive with a rebuilt 350 chevy marine engine. I would like to change the thru hull exaust to the underwater thru the outdrive style. Where can I find a new or used y-pipe? Volvo wants $700-$800.
 
I am taking apart my Volvo du

I am taking apart my Volvo dual prop leg.It is a dp290.Does anyone know where I can get info or spec sheets on this propeller so I can put it back together.
 
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