1971 Johnson FlyWheel Key

"Hey guys,

50 HP Johnson&#4

"Hey guys,

50 HP Johnson(1971)

ELS571

Does anyone know where i can get a flywheel key? or the part#?

Thanks,
Jared"

Any Evinrude/JOhnson dealershi

Any Evinrude/JOhnson dealership would have them..... part number is 307480.

"any hardware store or auto su

"any hardware store or auto supply store will have them, usually in the nut and bolt isle--brand names like Hillman or Midwest Fastener--about .30 cents a piece"

"Jared, you need to be careful

"Jared, you need to be careful here.Woodruff keys may look the same and you may get one at a HARDWARE store that could damage the flywheel and crankshaft tapers.Get one from a Johnson dealer.Remember the flywheel is driven by the taper and positioned by the key."

"Tom.... The 307480 key is of

"Tom.... The 307480 key is of a special design and hardness. Those hardware store woodruff keys will not work, and if one should manage to fit one in the crankshaft keyway, that would result in a sheared key, a spun flywheel, and damaged tapers of the crankshaft and flywheel.

Also, note that the straight edge of the key must be aligned vertical with the engine.... straight up and down, NOT ALIGNED with the crankshaft taper."

"I bought the part yesterday J

"I bought the part yesterday Joe, Thanks! it was like 3 dollars hehe. One question. The ignition timing, the screw that comes down from the armature uhmmmm the linkage screw. What should that be set at? All the manual says is stop screw should be set at 19 degress"

"19 degrees......at 5000 rpm w

"19 degrees......at 5000 rpm w/timing light,after timing pointer accurate location has been identified,using piston stop tool."

I know 19 degrees at WOT Im ta

I know 19 degrees at WOT Im talking about ignition timing. The idle screw that comes down from the armature connecting to the throttle cables. What should this be set at?

You are talking throttle stop?

You are talking throttle stop??Was the flywheel key " sheared " and did you mess with screws and stops while trouble shooting?

"I assume you're speaking

"I assume you're speaking of settimng the full spark advance timing via the full spark advance screw stop.... the screw with the rubber bumper on the screw head end. If so........

(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperture.

The full spark advance can be adjusted without have the engine running at near full throttle as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig a spark tester and have the gap set to 7/16". Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"

I know 19 degrees at WOT Im ta

I know 19 degrees at WOT Im talking about == that IS your WOT ignition timing...if u want to do link and sync pick-up timing...its best to go by a manual.

"Thanks for everyones help! Th

"Thanks for everyones help! The engine is running great, I set idle rpm at 800 and overall it's running awesome.

Have a great St. Patty's day and have way too much fun... I know i will heh.

Thanks again,
Jared}"

"Joe: thanks for pointing that

"Joe: thanks for pointing that out--when I rebuilt two 1960's johnsons last summer I used "generic" keys that went in fine and seem to work okay, no problems yet--would you recommend that i go in and change them? Ive been more worried about the shear pin behind the prop on these motors. Guess I better "stock up" on the right ones."

"The flywheel key is there onl

"The flywheel key is there only to align the flywheel at assembly, not to hold the flywheel!!!
The most important is to properly clean both crank and flywheel before assembly and torque to the spec. Never use any sort of fluid/loc-tite or whatever on cone/taper!!!!!!!!"

"Morten,...upon reading this,u

"Morten,...upon reading this,u might find it interesting,AS I DID,....on my last BRP school,on di engines,...they are now recommending BLUE locktite...on the crank taper...i have to admite i apply it around the threads area,of where the nut will end up,but...just for the sake of info--that was the latest,as of 10-03,...on that.lOCKTITE ON ALL,..tapers...of which,i am not doing,...i would love to hear all of your thoughts on this...they also changed from .040 gap to .030 on pretty much everything..but that,was earlier...by 3-4 yrs."

"Haveing been 'out of the

"Haveing been 'out of the business' for some years now, I don't get the latest updates.
With a correctly machined and matced taper and cone, there is no need for loc-tite. If, however for some reason the matching is not that good, the use of the blue lock-tite might 'repair' the mis-match. However it would require a 100% cleaning or the loc-tite will not harden out but instead act as a lubricant!!!!!! How many of our 'budget customers' would by Cleaning Solvent and Loc-Tite Activator just to put on the fly-wheel?
I can't recall that I in my active time had any problems with spinning fly-wheels providing taper and cone was properly cleaned, undammaged and nut torqued to specs. Even in some cases where the key was gone/dammaged and I did not have spares in stock, I just made them out of whatever I had just to get a proper alignment.

As for reducing spark plug gaps, it might encrease the spark plug life time, reduce load on power pack etc. However it would as I see it require a 'top' engine within certain limmited tolerances. I have allways considdered 'settings' as 'initials' just like carb mix screws. For the ultimate tuning, sometimes adjustments needs to be done!"