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My old 63 johnson 75hp V4 Water

L

Lilbearman

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" I have it runnig just a litt

" I have it runnig just a little... But MAN!! When I put it in gear and give it some throttle. it blew the water out of the garbage can in 1/2 second!!
And now I know My Overheat Light Works!
)

It just dont idle to good at all... BUT after reading Some other posts about The idle ajustments I am pretty sure I will be able to get it to idle good..

Also had no water coming from port. just steam and sprinkles of water. but the thrmastat is in a place were I can see it wont get to hot. only if cover of motor is on.. The cylinder heads were VERY HOT!! I could put my hand on top of the thrmastat and leave it there.. so as soon as I get it to idle. I will put the cover on and see if it will open.. WILL This Work?? Will IT Hurt the motor if the overheat light comes on again..
With out a good amount of water discharge ?

Thanks again for all the advise!! You GUYS ~Rule "
 
What if I put a hose from one

What if I put a hose from one side of the thrmstat to the other side. So it will bypass the thrmastat. Will I be able to see more water flow?
Or will this hurt the motor? I think it will at least show me that The impeller is working..

Just an Idea..

What cha Think?
 
" Are you REALLY sure you want

" Are you REALLY sure you want me to answer that,you shouldn't ask questions you don't want to hear the answer to! Zeke "
 
" you shouldn't ask questi

" you shouldn't ask questions you don't want to hear the answer to! Zeke ??

Who says I dont want to hear the awnser!

So was you going to call me stupid or something?
I dont think I came here to get some help with this old outboard. and end up getting Flamed bashed or rude insults thrown at me..
Becuse I dont have the experience in them as much as you..

As well as I wouldent say such things if you were asking about things I am Very experinced and trained in..

Anyway,
Have a Great day! "
 
"Lilbearman...... The hoses le

"Lilbearman...... The hoses leading from the two cylinder heads must be connected to the thermostat housing. The water circulates through the powerhead, then through the heads to the thermostat/pressure relief valve area, then to the outside. If you connected the two hoses together, the water couldn't circulate and would cook the engine quickly (Don't want that).

Keep water in that trash can or whatever you're using. If you have no water exiting the engine, I'd suggest you drop that lower unit to inspect the water pump.

If you don't have a service manual for that engine, click on classified to the left of this page, then outboards, then you will see a listing on manuals for sale. Andrew might just have one.

The adjustments for that downdraft carburetor are as follows.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)

NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". Follow the below instructions accordingly. If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same.

Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.

Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that viberation won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amout of effort.

(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdrive that properly fits the slot.

(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time.)

(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mjild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up).

Joe
"
 
" Thanks Joe!
I have it idlei


" Thanks Joe!
I have it idleing quite well. have fixed jets.
When warm started and idle with a touch on the key. I tried this morning it was about 38-40 degrees outside. But it wouldent start. I only tried it for a min. But I think I have to adjust the high speed control lever. the scroled line is about 1/4 inch from the roller so it dont have the bottom butterflis of the carb open a little. I will adjust this tonight.

I By no meens ran the motor with out water in the can filled to way above the lower unit. my wife hit the trottle to full. she went the wrong way.
? That Happens. But shut it down within 5 seconds. And seen the overheat light come on..
Man!! It sure wants to go!! Just been resting for 30 years.. I let it idle for about 5-10 mins lastnight. Not any prob with heating up..

((And You are Sure RIGHT)) !! It drinks gas!!
faster then I drink Beer!

Need to get a hunderd gallon outboard tank
)

Thanks for all your help Joe!!
You are Way Cool! "
 
the adjustment on the roller.

the adjustment on the roller.If you do not have a manual you may be adjusting something that "looks wrong to you" when in fact it is correct. I have seen people do this to their perfectly adjusted motors.
 
I just bought a 1963 evinrude

I just bought a 1963 evinrude 75 horse speedifour. It looks like a giant martian head hanging on the back of the boat. It has been sitting for 10 or so years. No fire. Magneto model. What is the most logical test sequence. I have no manual. Any info would be helpful.
 
" Ask My wife!
I don't j


" Ask My wife!
I don't just go by L@@K"S!
)

Just kidding,,,

I do have a cheesessie manual from the library. Covers about 100 + motor's.

But I wont give up!

This motor was setting for over 30 years, And I don't think it got used much... Because of\ it never ran well!!

I shut The idle screw closed all the way on the port side. And the motor still Runs. And that side gets a Lot hoter then the other side. I have this v4 and one side is so much hoter then the other when it idles.. I Think this carb is screwed up from the beginning!

I get good spark on all 4 plugs 1/4 inch Jump and maybe more. I still dont understand why one side gets twice as hot as the other.

((Joe))? Can I send this motor to You and you get it runing! (I Will pay shiping)!

I dug a 1963 van from a junk yard and had it runing Great in one week! But I just Cant get this to run well. Reminds me of MY chrysler cordoba That would not Behave!

Anyway, Sorry for ramblen.. I am Just frustrated!

Sparky.. I have left all the settings alone.. Still did not run well... Have played with them
-but-, remembered where they all where and put them back.! Still no Better..

Lilbear "
 
" What is the timing on this m

" What is the timing on this motor and what is the condition of your pistons and rings ( remove bypass covers and inspect). Finding out what the problem is with a motor usually takes no more than 15 minutes, fixing the problem is a different story. "
 
Magneto this motor has and is

Magneto this motor has and is timed Great!
New Points condenser plugs.. rebulid carb. I shut The idle screw closed all the way on the port side. And the motor still Runs..! I can take the idle screw all the way out of carb and it still runs! Pistons and rings are good.. Why dose this side of the v4 get hotter then the other..
 
"Dual note here!

Colby.....


"Dual note here!

Colby..... If you remove the magneto (recommended), when re-installing, line up the timing mark on the flywheel with the timing mark on the block just to the rear and slightly to the left of center of the flywheel. On the magneto, line up the timing mark on the magneto pulley with the center of the safety switch button. If the safety switch isn't there, look for a scribe mark that would normally be dead center of the switch. With all of those marks lined up, install the belt and adjust the tension.

Remove the belt so that you can spin the pulley clockwise by hand. If there is no fire (spark) from the magneto, remove the black wire that is attached to the port (left) side of the magneto and check again. If you now have spark, you either forgot to turn the key on or that black wire that leads to the ignition switch is grounded out.

If you still do not have spark, remove the magneto, remove the distributor cap, remove the pulley. Check that the points are set to .020 on the high lobe and that the points are clean (clean with laquer thinner or acetone). Attach a jumper wire to the main coil terminal, rigging up some kind of spark tester whereas you can set a 1/4" gap. Spin the pulley.... a strong blue flame should jump that gap easily. If you now have spark, I would suspect that the rotor is shorting out to the shaft. If still no spark, have the coil tested, and install new points along with the conderser and rotor.
-------------

Lilbearman.... No, you can't ship that engine to me, but if you want to ship the carburetor to me along with a new carburetor kit, and enough money for my time ($40) and shipping cost ($?) to send it back, I'll clean and rebuild that carburetor so that it's in perfect condition. The adjustments would be the initial settings. The fact that you can shut one idle needle valve completely off and it makes no change in the running of the engine indicates that the engine is either running on two (2) cylinders to begin with, or is drawing fuel to the related two (2) cylinders from another source.

Have you rebuilt the fuel pump or checked the diaphram for leakage?

Joe
"
 
Yes Pump is rebuilt. I pull o

Yes Pump is rebuilt. I pull out the plugs after runing and all look the same.. so I am pretty sure that a cylinders are fireing.

But one side is hotter than the other..
 
" Thanks joereeves for the inf

" Thanks joereeves for the info. I removed the mag and cleaned and regapped the points and just basicly cleaned and lubbed every thing and wha-la, pretty blue spark. Now onto the carbs. I got the adjustment info from your previous conversation with Lilbearman so at this point Its rebuild time along with replacing hoses and filters and tank cleaning. Wich brings another question, whats the best method for removing the sludgy semi-rusty slurry that smells of varnish from boat tanks? The crap is still in a liquid state and not severly rusty but some rust is present. All this is a part of my restoration of a 1957 lonestar boat. It's an ugly tailfinned fiberglass boat with alot of character. Thanks for the great info. "
 
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