Problems w 1976 85hp Evinrude

Model# 856996
Serial# J00019

Model# 856996
Serial# J0001950

I have had this engine about 1 1/2 years. I am being told I need another Power Pack. This was replaced just last winter. Is this normal for an engine to go through a Power Pack a year? This engine also doesn't pee much water when it is running. It has the 2 holes just below the motor compartment. How much should it spit out normally? I also have problems with it dying when I put it into gear. This happens even if it is warmed up or not. Does this mean it needs to have the idle adjusted higher? This motor also came with a Whale Tail XL hydrofoil stabilizer. Is this thing doing me any good or is it just superfluous? The last time I tried to take my boat out it would not start and when I pulled it out of the water oil was leaking out of the small hole under the fin that the hydrofoil is bolted to. Is this just due to trying to start it repeatedly and the amount of fuel that was pumped into the engine? This is my first boat and I am trying to keep from being taken to the cleaners due to ignorance. I would appreciate any advice concerning what I should tell the mechanic and have him check. I apologize for the length of the post and appreciate any and all help and your time. Thank-you.

"Kirk.... Things you can do yo

"Kirk.... Things you can do yourself:

First, check the compression, should be 100+ psi and even on all cylinders.

Second, with the s/plugs removed and key in the ON position, check the spark with some kind of spark gap tester, should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue flame on all cylinders. If no spark, remove the black/yellow wire from the powerpack and retry... if you now have spark, replace the ignition switch. If still no spark, replace the powerpack.

The powerpack should last many years. If the new powerpack has failed after such a short time, check to see if a very small amount of battery voltage is present at the black/yellow wire. If even the smallest of voltage is present at that wire, it would cause the pack to short and fail. This would be caused by a faulty ignition switch also. Bottom line= if voltage is present at the black/yellow wire, replace the ign switch.

If the compression and ignition are now fine, and you still have a starting and idle problem, it would most likely be due to fouled carburetors. You could tackle that job with a proper service manual and patience. However, it may be better to let a experienced OMC mechanic do that carb work.

The hydrofoil (hydro-wing), if that's what you're speaking of (large wing type affair attached to the cavitation plate) is designed to get the boat up on a plane with minimum effort, and they do just that. Keep it if that's what you've got.

The two holes just under the powerhead assy that you speak of are water overflow relief holes. When you slow the boat down, or stop, you'll notice water rolling up towards the stern. That water is also rolling up underwater towards the propeller exhaust outlet. If those two holes weren't there, the water would continue into the prop exhaust, then up the exhaust tube (hsg between lower unit & powerhead), then into the lower cylinders etc (not a good idea!). Those holes have nothing to do with referencing the condition of the water pump. Make sure your warning horn operates by having the ignition key ON, then gounding out the tan overheat sensor wire that you'll find on the cylinder head(s). That should cause the warning horn to sound off, if it doesn't, find out why as that's the only warning you'll receive.

The spark plugs should be CHampion QL77JC4 or L77JC4 plugs with the gap set at .040. The "Q" indicates a resistor plug to help quiet noise (interference) within electronic equipment.


Joe "

" Good advice from Joe. I had

" Good advice from Joe. I had an ignition problem with one of those bakelite terminal board ignition sytems once. The charge coil output was good; the sensor output was there, but seemed a little high, but I had no primary output on a couple of cylinders. Everything pointed to the power-pack. A mechanic older than me (I'm over 50), told me to take a punch and hammer and tap the timer base sensors a little closer to the hub of the flywheel. BINGO! The magnets had weekened over time and the timing sensors couldn't pick up the triggers from the hub of the flywheel. As far as I know, that motor is still running. I'll never forget that procedure. Good luck. "

Thanks Joe and Bubba. I reall

Thanks Joe and Bubba. I really appreciate the help.

Is that test with the black a

Is that test with the black and yellow wire done with the ign.switch in the off position I assume?