Can somebody tell me what Ive got

"I got this boat for free, but

"I got this boat for free, but I really know nothing about boats. All I know is that it is a mercruiser,120hp,4 cyl.,stern drive. The engine is full of water and is locked up, but I think the outdrive is O.K. Can someone tell me how to determine what model outdrive it is.I have looked it over for serial #s, but it has a ton of paint on it and I cant seem to locate one. I am also probably going to have to replace the engine, as I fear it is to far gone to salvage. I wish to do it as cheap as possible and I am just looking for options. I am not concerned with power, more concerned with reliability and fuel efficiency. Thanks alot for any info you can give me. Well it seems that I cannot put my pictures up here because they are to big, and I dont know how to condense them. I dont know if I know less about boats, or computers. If anyone is interested in helping me, I guess I will just email the pics directly to you unless you can help me get them on here. Im an idiot, I know. Thanks a lot."

"Kevin:
What does the title

"Kevin:
What does the title say? Year? Mfg.? Model? There should be a label on the valve cover with engine serial # and the side of the OD should have a # stamped on it. If it was under water, you may need a complete engine/OD repower since water got into the whole kit and kabottle and rust has taken over every moveable part.

First check the condition of the transom, floor and stringers--they may be water logged along with the floatation foam, rotted and beyond use and need replaced; not cheap unless you do it yourself. If all that is solid, you may be able to get a salvaged repower set that will work.

There are just too many things that need to be examined by a competent marine technician for you to get a true picture of the boat's condition and then how you should proceed.

Good luck. Guy"

"A good place to start is the

"A good place to start is the Year of the Boat.....

If the drive has a Lifting Eye cast into the Top Cover,....
It's a Mod.1, or "R" drive......

If the drive has a Flat Top Cover,....
It's an Alpha 1 or "MR" drive........

Either Way,.....
A 120hp, 153cid, 2.5l engine is the Direct Replacement for your Anchor......
A 140hp, 181cid, 3.0l is Also a Drop-in Replacement choice.......

Good Luck......"

"The company I work for has a

"The company I work for has a 2.5 L I4 engine that was purchased from GM for evaluation purposes. It has never been used and I do not think that we need it anymore. I believe it was marketed as "the Iron Duke". I do not see why it could not be used as a marine engine. Contact me if you are interested. [email protected]"

"Thanks everybody for your hel

"Thanks everybody for your help. Pooring down rain today, so I couldnt get those #s. The boat wasnt underwater, it just sat outside uncovered for who knows how long. I have taken the O/D off, and the shaft spins freely even though it is covered with rust. Are there other moving parts between ther and the engine that I should be concerned with? What type of maintenance shoul I do to the O/D while I have it off? The prop. doesnt spin with it, but does spin on its own. Is it in nuetral? is there a way to shift it into gear to see if it will drive the prop? How can I tell if the wood and foam is soaked underneath the fiberglass? What is my cheapest option for putting a new engine in? Thanks again for all your help, I think this website is going to be a life saver."

"Kevin: sound the transom on

"Kevin: sound the transom on the outside with a rubber mallet--start at the top and move across and down at one foot intervals. A solid transom has a specific thump whereas a wet and/or rotted area, usually the lower half, will have a solid THUD sound.

If there is a swim ladder on it, water gets in around the lower bolts. Pitot tube screws (speedometer tube) are another place for it to enter. Walk around on the entire floor and feel with your tapping foot for soft spots in the floor; usually around the ski locker frame you'll find them.

Look at the engine mount and rap the sides of it; is it flat on top or somewhat depressed? Rot causes it to collapse some as it decays, which throws the engine/OD alignment off and wears out the engine coupler.

There is also a moisture meter available that you use to probe the areas you want to check. The stringers (like floor joists on a house)are under the floor and are only exposed in the engine compartment and ski locker of a small boat. You can sound them also with a mallet or probe them with an awl or thin blade screwdriver--you'll know when you find rot. Don't despair; all of it can be fixed if you don't mind dirt and working with fiberglass--it is easy to do the stringers and floor.

Leave the transom to a professional unless you have good carpentry skills to properly build it up. The transom comes out from the inside and you use the fiberglass shell for the OD template. Stick with non-blushing epoxy when doing the work. Take lots of digital photos you can use for reference and view them on an LCD screen. Been there and done that; there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Good luck, Guy"