1992 4hp Evinrude Deluxe No Spark

"I have a 1992 Evinrude 4hp De

"I have a 1992 Evinrude 4hp Deluxe with no spark on either cylinder. I checked the run/stop switch wiring with my ohmmeter and with the safety clip installed it is infinite, with it removed or the button pushed the resistance goes to 0, this checks with proper indications from the Seloc manual. Does this check with what you would think is correct?

I checked the charge coil according to the following:

4. A resistance check can be used to statically check the charge coil (and the wiring harness), but keep in mind that a coil could test within spec statically, but show a fault dynamically (especially once operating temperatures are reached). Of course, this is your only option for testing the charge coil on UFI motors, so do your best. And, one small advantage of the resistance check is that not everyone has access to a peak-reading .

l. With the 5-pin connector still disengaged from the previous steps (or the flywheel and other components removed for access on UFI models directly to the wires), probe across terminals A (brown lead) and D (brown/yellow lead) from the charge coil. On UFI models the terminal references are not applicable, but the wire colors should be the same.

m. Resistance should be 800-1000 ohms for a component at about 68° F (20° C) or the charge coil is out of specification. Please note that the specification given is for all 1991 and later models with either CDI or UFI, however the specification for 1990 UFI models differs and is only 535-585 ohms.

It says that the wire colors should be the same, does that mean as in brown and brown/yellow or should they both be the same color? I have no brown wire, both are yellow/brown, so I checked the resistance across them and it reads 0000, which does not match with the 800-1000 that it should be, but I wonder if I am checking the correct wiring, since they are both brown/yellow and there is no brown. I would hate to replace this module if in fact I am just checking resistance in the wrong place....

The only other item that I am thinking is that both power packs have gone bad... There is a metal clip on on one end of each of the power packs and some fiber washers, are those metal tabs on the power packs supposed to be insulated from ground or grounded to the motor. On the right hand powerpack (looking rear to front) the powerpack is grounded via a wire on the outboard side of the powerpack, but should it be insulated on the motor side? The left hand powerpack has no ground wire, so I am assuming that it has to be grounded in some fashion... or does it require the fiber insulation washers on both side??"

"The model # is E4RDHLENM

I

"The model # is E4RDHLENM

I replaced the ignition module and still no fire! This leads me to believe that it is a ground problem and I now have a new (and not needed) ignition module! Unless both power packs have gone bad... Any tricks out there on how to test the powerpacks (ignition coils) with the PL-88 (I think that is what it is called) attachment for my voltmeter?

Below are some pics of where I think my ground problems are... I also attached a pic of the wirng diagram from the seloc manual and the ground diagrams on the ignition coils confuses me... but I think the pics and the questions I put on the pics can clear this all up in a jif! I appreciate the help....


"

"When troubleshooting the igni

"When troubleshooting the ignition system, allways DISCONNECT the stop circuit. It is about 230 volts in the circuit, and more amps than You get by testing with an ohm meter!Pull the black/yellow plug out. Do You have innput from stator - trigger to the powerpack?"

"If I disconnect the stop circ

"If I disconnect the stop circuit, then I definately won't get any spark when I pull the rope, will I? How do I know if I have input from the the stator-trigger to the powerpack?

Thanks!
Mike"

"The stop circuit grounds the

"The stop circuit grounds the PP when activated. Just disconnect it to be eliminate the possibility of a jumping spark.
Measure with an OHM meter between the wires going to the powerpack from under the stator and between wires and ground. Continuity between the wires (color paired), no continuity to ground or You have a shorted coil."

"Morten... Makes sense, will c

"Morten... Makes sense, will check it out ASAP!

So that is how the stop circuit works... interesting and just grounding that one powerpack will shut it all down?"

Got her running... thanks for

Got her running... thanks for all the help!

"I replaced the ignition modul

"I replaced the ignition module... Obviously electrical and shops won't let you take that those parts back, so I don't know if I would have replaced it right away based on no spark on both cyliners again...

What I would do is check for voltage from the ignition coil under the fly-wheel. I checked this, after the replacing the ign module, but not before... and had voltage. I then reinstalled the coils for the cyliners and methodically checked the grounding of them and had spark. Had I checked for voltage before on the under fly wheel coil, I might have realized that this was just a ground problem all along!

Oh, well live and learn... my advice to those with spark problems.... check those grounds!"

"Bad ground normally kills ign

"Bad ground normally kills ign modules and too much ground, stop circuit, is the most common problems on boat engines. Sometimes it pays off to take out grounding screws, clean threads both on screws and in block before reinstalling, then paint and seal on top with liquid neoprene to prevent water from entering.
The reason shops never takes electronic parts in return is that there are no test posibilities for loose power packs, you need an engine!"

Buster.... Looks like I steere

Buster.... Looks like I steered you right to this forum. I assumed that Morten would have the answer for you. The extra powerpack is a handy item to keep in your onboard tool box along with the tools to install it. One never knows when it will fail suddenly..... and that could save your outing.