View Full Version : b85 ChryslerNissan SD33 Diesel

09-24-2002, 06:25 PM
" My SD33 has been a hard starter since I bought the boat a few months ago. Now when it starts it has very low power when put in gear, but revs fine with no load. It ran great a couple months ago when I delivered it to the Central California port, so I'm thinking the problem is in the fuel delivery. I ran it with inadequate filtration for a couple hours, and seems to have brought on the problem. Since the problem developed, I've rebuilt the injectors, installed new glow plugs, but still no power. I've run new fuel lines and added a new filter system from the tank to the pump, and added an electric pump in line to assist the mechanical pump. Question: Is there any way to clean the injection pump without disassembly? "

10-03-2002, 03:51 AM
" I am curious where you find parts for your engine. I have a Chrysler Nissan MN4-75, 1969. So far the only place I know of is Jesco in Northern California. Any other connections you may have?

Thank you.

Paul "

10-03-2002, 09:20 AM
"I haven't used them myself... but I am told that Blue Ridge Marina has Chrysler diesel parts: 800-621-2215


10-23-2003, 12:17 AM
" I am not going to be of any help, but I do have a question. I just bought a 1975 North Sea Trawler 26 with a Chrysler/Nissan SD33 and want to install a remote oil filter, instead of the canister now attached. Any ideas, is there a adaptor kit and where would I get it?
Thanx, Frank "

10-23-2003, 09:37 PM
" With reference to cleaning injector pumps w/o disssembly: An old salt told me to run the tank almost empty, add a quart of straight weight 30 motor oil and run that thru the system. We had a GM diesel that kept getting harder and harder to start then finally quit. We did as the old guy said and it is purring like a kitten. Service center eas going to sell us a new pump for "only 1400.00" installed. Kim PS After this I also suggest regular doses of a good fuel conditioner, available at NAPA or any parts store. "

04-08-2004, 01:00 AM
" The SD33 is a Nissan forklift engine. It was also used in the International Scout 4x4, and you can find a LOT of info on that engine if you'll just search the web a bit.

Google on SD33 and SD-33, and Scout too maybe, and you'll find all sorts of maintenance and performance info.

Also call your local forklift-repair place. They'll likely have sources for parts, etc..

Almost all of those "Chrysler" 4/6 cyl diesels of that era were Nissan forklift motors.

The SD33 engine is known for cracking a web in the head, when run hard. If I recall, the NA version is OK, but the turbo'd version had the problem. Just too much power/pressure/heat for the amount of metal there. Again, lots of info about this on the Scout forums.

re: cleaning pump

A quart of ATF in 5-10 gal. of diesel will many times clean up a fuel-system problem. "

Steve Crockett
06-26-2007, 03:56 AM
could you tell me the max horsepower at RPM of a nissan SD33. Need info to reconfigure my prop.

Sveinn Thordarson
08-01-2007, 05:00 AM
"Take a look at:

http://members.aol.com/EldonMcf/sd33t.html ("")

For the automobile version, but probably still relevant."

09-11-2009, 11:56 PM
I am looking for a compression/gauge for my Sd22 engine which is in my sailboat. The injector port size is unique enough that standard compression gauges witll not fit. I am having the exact same problem that MIke is having with hard starting and loss of power under a load. My mechanic thinks it may be a low compression issue. It is almost impossible to get it started cold but when warm starts instantly. If any one has an idea of how I can find a compession guage which fits I will be quite happy.

09-12-2009, 06:21 AM
"G'day Bill,
Sorry can not help with gauge adapter. To test for enough starting compression add obout a tea spoon of oil into each cylinder via either injector or glow plug port, prior to hitting starter bar engine over to check adequate bump clearance. Hpoe this helps Shakey."

old boat builder
12-11-2011, 01:34 AM
I am having trouble bleeding the rear three fuel lines to the injectors...I have been opening one at a time starting with the shortest ones from the front end, and the flow seems air free until I get to No. 4....Then I get lots of bubbles from the threads and some from around the pipe at the top of the compression fitting...but it does not leak if I tighten it down....I have been purging the injector pump before each session, and do not see any bubbles. and wonder if there is just a lot of air in the steel lines, but I don't want to burn out the starter...is there a way to pump through the injection pump with an electric pump? The engine hasn't been started for over a year...does the fuel in the filter get air by sitting?I also need a service manual, and will try looking on the net, as per the posting here.

08-21-2012, 10:40 AM
I had the same problem with the fuel lines, and had to run the fuel line intake to the engine with 5' of head, while bleeding the rear three lines....bleed the pump, then loosen the shortest line (NO 4 in your case) and keep pouring fuel in while starting the engine until there are no bubbles...then go to the the next, and so on...keep bleeding the pump staring at the front bleed screw...it takes a lot of cranking and pouring to get the air out...
good luck with that...here is MY problem:
I have the cylinder head off of my 1972 SD 33, and got a gasket set (from Tiffin Parts in Ohio) that is for a 1980 and newer, even though I specified the earlier engine.
It came with a lot (10) of rubber coated rings that look like they are the same size as the small copper gaskets for the injector tips, and some larger ones that look the same size as the upper copper compression seal on the injectors....the kit also has 6 small copper rings for the injector tip, but only two of the larger copper rings...it has a couple of some medium sized rubber rings too...
I have a free copy of the service manual from the internet missing three pages (M 15-18) and tried to buy a copy but it is missing those pages too. The manual says "don't forget to install the rubber seals" in the head gasket...
I have placed two of the large rubber rings in the head gasket at the rear end where they fit over what seems to be oil passages, and two of the medium ones on two passages forward of No 5 cylinder....there is another hole at the rear end of the gasket, that has a "stepped" end in the block, and there is one copper "compression' type ring that seems to fit there, but I am not sure about what is supposed to go there...So basically, I am missing a drawing of the head gasket that shows where the sealing rings go, and a list of the parts that are required...the 1980 gasket set has smaller valve guide seals too, but I cut the valve guides down and used a better type, so that seems to be ok...but it is frustrating not being sure about why there are so many of the rubber coated rings, and not knowing where they go...there are holes in the gasket that are the size of the small rings, but they are "blank" against the block and head...no passages in either, at those holes...should I put the rings there? are these a new type of injector seal? I took the head off because there was a lot of white smoke that smelled like unburnt fuel, but seemed to be water vapor, but the head gasket did not look "blown"...so I had it serviced, and now have this problem with the gasket set...any guidance would be appreciated.
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415 250 3214

06-16-2014, 02:45 PM
Got problem for my props