1985 Merc 60hp, starting question

My Merc start just fine every time I pump the fuel line bulb BEFORE I start it.

But, when I start it, then motor around the lake shut it off and fish for an hour and go to start it, the motor has a hard time starting until I pump the fuel line bulb again. It takes four or five squeezes to make it hard, then it will start just fine.

Now my question is:
Should the bulb stay hard once the it is pumped and started?
Is it the check valves in the bulb that are leaking back or is it the check valves in the fuel pump on the motor?
What is your experience with the priming bulb?

Thanks for the input....Fish On...

The bulb does not stay hard once the motor has been cranked or after starting .-----A most misunderstood concept.-----A primer bulb is a manual fuel pump used to fill the carburetors.-----Is saves the starter motor from doing that job !!------After it has filled the carburetors the bulb DOES NOTHING and fuel just flows through it.

o you add some choke when restarting, and idle it up?

Jeff

Jeff,
I do add some chock and set the idle up when re-starting. It WILL re-start, but I have to crank and crank and crank to get it there. If pump the bulb it start right away.

I know it is a 2 stroke, they are cold blooded; BUT, all MY 2 stroke lawn and yard equipment start on 3 pulls or less and I want my Merc to be the same.

So figuring out why my Merc doesn't fit into that pattern is my goal.

Racer,
I realize that basically you have two pumps in a row, and four sets of check valves.

Most pumps are better at discharge than suction. The only exception to that rule is maybe a positive displacement pump.

The pump on the outboard and the bulb pump are both positive displacement pumps.

The float valves in the crabs overpower the diaphragms crankcase suction pulses to limit the flow.

With each stroke of the fuel pump, the discharge check valves open while the suction check valves are closed, then the reverse occurs during the suction cycle.

The diaphragm stroke length determines the amount of fuel that is displaced. Since the fuel is not really compressible for every suction stroke the fuel displaced by the discharge must be replaced from the fuel tank. Keeping the bulb as full as it was initially.


I may have somewhat answered my own question.
The fact that my bulb is loosing volume (indicated by soft bulb) either the bulb suction check is not holding or there is a small air leak that is not effecting operation YET.

What was initially looking for is was someone with experience and a solution...

Thanks....

On my '92 Merc 40 4 cylinder 2 stroke, at start of day, I fill the carb bowls using the primer bulb till it gets hard; then up the idle level a bit; choke the heck out of it by pushing the key inward (activates the electric enrichener) while turning the key to the start position; once it kicks over I let go of choking it but will have to do a few short chokes again and then it will stay running. Once hot, it starts without choke and idle lever. Once cold that day, idle lever up and choke again. On following days, I do not use the primer bulb. Yes, it's cold blooded and demands full float bowls and choking. Once the engine starts, the primer bulb goes soft and stays that way.