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BF225 Problem

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clkelley78

Contributing Member
I have a 2008 BF225 and quit this weekend on the water. Pulled off Cowling and looks like the timing belt broke. I haven't had a chance to pull off flywheel cover, but looks like the pulley is bent too. Anyone ever had this problem and how hard is this to repair?


Thanks,
Chad
 
This is a very rare occurrence, based on my knowledge. There could be a lot of damage or very little. Take it to a trained Honda Marine Tech. He or she will need to do a lot of tests to see what else is messed up.
 
I've had this happen to me twice. And both times above 4000 rpm. The Honda 225 is an interference motor, meaning that the pistons and the valves will collide if that timing belt comes loose, especially at higher rpms. Good luck.
 
Skooter said:
I've had this happen to me twice. And both times above 4000 rpm. The Honda 225 is an interference motor, meaning that the pistons and the valves will collide if that timing belt comes loose, especially at higher rpms. Good luck.
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So both times you had to rebuilt the heads?

I was at idle speed coming into the Harbor so what are the chances this motor is cashed out?? It's a 2008 with 320 hrs. I have a guy coming to look at it in Port Mansfield.
 
No compression test. It runs better now than I can remember... I bet the belt slipped and threw the timing off a hair until the pulley final gave way.
 
Yes - Lucky, indeed! What was needed to get everything fixed? Obviously a new timing belt. Idler pulley? Tensioner? Did you install a new alternator belt while you were in there?
 
Skooter said:
Yes, all 24 intake/exhaust valves. 2x. I am now repowering with Suzuki's... Port mansfield?? Thats where I fish
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Do those have that GPS anchor? I can't remember what its called but the engines automatically keeps you in position as if you've anchored based on your GPS position. Man I'd love to have that feature.
 
For 225 owners reading this post, note that this is a service item is often overlooked. The timing belt should be checked and adjusted every 200hrs. They will not fail if this simple procedure is carried out properly. The belt does stretch over time and being very long a little stretch makes it loose, the adjuster is not automatic as is generally the norm these days.
 
chawk_man said:
Yes - Lucky, indeed! What was needed to get everything fixed? Obviously a new timing belt. Idler pulley? Tensioner? Did you install a new alternator belt while you were in there?
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Yes, replaced timing belt, 2 pulleys and idler pulley, alternator belt since was already in there and new spring. Also throttle was sticking so purchased new throttle handle which I'll be replacing this weekend. Boat was idling at 1300 so could not find "Net" with out forcing it with two hands. Come to find out, throttle body was sticking and not allowing it to return against the set screw. Sprayed it with corrosion X and worked it back to norm. Now idles at 900 RPMS but shifter is still not right. Maybe I need to replace cables as well since I was forcing it for a few days.
 
Nasty Wendy said:
Do those have that GPS anchor? I can't remember what its called but the engines automatically keeps you in position as if you've anchored based on your GPS position. Man I'd love to have that feature.
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I'm not sure about gps anchor. I know I got the digital C10 gauges which do a number of things. One guage can read both motors rpm, speed, temp, voltage and fuel burn.Boat is almost ready, just waiting on new hydraulic steering.

As for the timing belt, usually the stretch is not so much the issue as is the bearing failure on the pulleys.
 
On the 225 the idle should be 650 +/-50 rpm. In the Helm shop manual there is a rather complex procedure for adjusting the throttle and throttle cables. Below is the short version.

First, with engine off, take off the cover, gently put in gear (do not force it – if much resistance, get someone to turn the prop by hand while slipping it into gear), push throttle full open and inspect whether the throttle lever arm (at the cable cam wheel) is up against the stopper. It should be. If not, before adjusting, pull throttle back to idle speed, put shifter in neutral, and follow the cables to the throttle cam wheel (on top of the engine toward the rear) and make sure they are not damaged or kinked.

At the throttle cam wheel, make sure the adjustment nuts are tight. Measure the distance between the adjustment bracket and the end of the cable adjustment threads. They should be 9 mm on both. If not, adjust.

Back to the throttle cam where the lever is located - measure the length from the end of the threaded part back to the adjustment nut - the open side (to your left as you are facing it) should be 14 mm. The close side (to your right) should be 19 mm. If not, adjust.

Put back in gear, and push throttle all the way forward. Throttle arm on the cable cam should be up against the stopper. If not, then you likely have a problem with the cable from your throttle control to your engine, which will need to be adjusted or replaced.

If the throttle arm is up against the stopper, then look at where the roller sits in the throttle cam. It looks like a fat inverted "L". The roller should be almost touching the top of the narrow part of the "L". Then pull the throttle lever at your control all the way back, and put the engine in neutral. The roller should now line up with the "V" mark on the foot of the "L." If not, adjust the linkages until the roller does what it is supposed to do – nearly touch the stopper at full throttle and line up with the "V" mark at minimum throttle.

For more detail, see pages 3-18 to 3-21 in the Helm Shop Manual.
 
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