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overheat alarm on honda bf225 2006

debaser4

New member
im a newbie.

ran engine for about a half hour at good speed....got a alarm. shut it down waited 10 mins...ran fine the rest of the day but i took it easy.

next outing: ran engine good to the sandbar, on the way home thru the intercoastal got the warning alarm when i kicked up the speed (after a few mins). shut down, waited 10 mins, ran it low speed the way home.

next outing: ran engine real good for about 45 mins, got the alarm...shut it down, waited 10 mins, ran it low-med speed all the way home.

so it looks like im getting this alarm rather constantly now if i run the engine around 3500-5000 rpms for a bit.

water out of pee hole doesn't seem to be too hot. alarm is beep! beep! beep! beep! beep! (until key is turned to off).

this is a used 2006 bought with 165 hours on it, i have put another 80 hours on it before i started getting alarm. pee hole is good flow i think...i have to stick weedwacker line in it every so often to get it strong....but i dont know how strong it needs to be?

where should i start? possible problems? any help would be appreciated...i have zero dollars to spend and will likely need to fix this myself.

2006 honda bf225 on a 2006 carolina skiff seachaser 2400 CC
 
If the alarm is beep beep beep....that is not a solid beeeeeeeeeeep, then you are not overheating.

What warning lights are on or off at the time?

Most likely it is a sensor. The most common is the one that engine is the O2 sensor....but should not jump to conclusions until you check the lights and check for codes.

Chawk, has posted many times in the past how to check for the codes. It involves shorting across a couple of contacts and counting the flashes in the check engine light.

Mike
 
If they are short beeps, AND THERE ARE NO RED LIGHTS COMING ON AT YOUR KEY SWITCH CONSOLE, it's water in the on board fuel/water separator. That's the first thing the fuel line sends fuel into, before the fuel goes on to the low pressure fuel filter. If you have the newer F/W separator, there will be two wires coming out of the bottom.

Pinch off the fuel lines going to the separator. Unplug the wires at its connector. Remove the separator from it's suspension strap, take it apart, and clean it as described on pages 73 and 74 of your owner's manual. If you don't have it, you can download it from http://marine.honda.com/support.

Once you've cleaned it, and have it put back together, turn it upside down several times to make sure that the float is not sticking. Then, measure the continuity across the two pins of the connector. When the bowl is right side up, there should be no continuity. When the bowl is upside down, there should be continuity. If all that checks out, reattach it to the suspension strap, remove the fuel line clamps, and prime your fuel line.

Having said all of that, you should have an external fuel/water separator (e.g. Racor) installed in your main fuel line before the primer bulb. That will keep water from getting into your on/board fuel water separator and it's much more effective than the on board separator. If you already have one installed, then it has failed, so change the filter element. You should drain the external F/W separator about every 30 hours of operation.
 
BTW, I'll try to attach a spreadsheet which tells you what the alarms and light combinations mean. (I seem to have a mental block on how to do this most of the time, so it it doesn't work, sorry 'bout that. Send me an e-mail at [email protected])
 

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  • BF 225 Alarms.jpg
    BF 225 Alarms.jpg
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ok so i have a new alarm that sounded this past weekend.

first off- my console:

has a keyhole, 1 green light and 1 red light. thats it. So the red light came on and i got a long continuous beeeeeeep! the red light stays on and the beep is continuous until i turn the key off. I really cannot read the alarm spreadsheet supplied...so do you know what this alarm is? overheat?

i got the alarm after running the engine at med-high speed for 15 minutes. it works fine at low speeds.

???
 
It's hard to tell what it is. Without the 4-light key switch (which should be on all of the larger Honda's) you cannot pull fault codes. So you will need to get it to someone who has Dr. H or the HDS computer to pinpoint the problem.

Assuming that the green light is staying lit, and all else seems to be running well, then it's most likely an overheat situation. When is the last time you changed out the impeller on the water pump? It should be done annually. That's a part you need to buy. The best prices are on www.boats.net. Also, pull your two thermostats and make sure corrosion hasn't built up around the t-stat and that the T-stats fully open at 160 F. They should open 3 mm.

If the green light is not lit, then you have have low oil pressure. First check your oil level.
 
Thanks so much for your help...the thermostats were the problem. one was stuck open and the other was stuck closed. The engine is now back to its happy self. There was some corrosion build up on the closed thermostat and my mechanic friend recommended i do a "salt x" douche of the system? ex- set up a trough filled with water and salt x, run engine / run mixture through cooling system to break up corrosion. Is that a good idea?
 
Yes, that's a good idea. In addition, some folks will first pour white vinegar into the t-stat openings, crank the engine a bit (without starting) to circulate it and let it sit overnight. Then flush it by running in fresh water.
 
I'm having the same problem with my overheat light coming on and the engine goes into safety mode. Where are the thermostats located on 2006 225?
 
If the engine overheats, it will go into safety mode (1800 rpm) for 20 seconds. If overheat situation remains, it will shut down.

The t-stats are at the top of each cylinder head. You must remove the silencer case to get to them. See attached.

View attachment T-Stats BF 225.pdf

Note that on the starboard side, one bolt on the t-stat cover is shorter than the other two. Remember where that one goes.
 
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