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Help Ive got a 92 40hp force thats scared of water? runs great at home starts at lake then dies

S

sgreen

New member
my 40hp force starts at home with the ears on idels perfect slips into gear perfect but I take it to the lake starts runs for a min. or two then dies and wont start back up so I run my kicker motor and try the 40hp every so often most times it wont start sometimes it will I let it idle 1/4 throttle try to put in gear and it dies and wont start????? got a few miles out on saginaw bay last week and wouldnt run this is not good any idea's? it was the same crap last year.:confused::mad: please help me out
 
Compression/spark test. What rpm's while at idle? Should be about 1100 in gear 750-800 You have a primer/choke, sometimes the diaphram in it goes bad and it chokes itself out. Pinch off the line from the primer and see if that solves the problem.
 
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I did do compression check it was around 130psi it has ele. choke and that works like it should. didnt check spark because it dont start till im in the lake. I think thats the problem sometimes spark and sometimes not?while trolling with kicker motor Ill whirl it over 10-12 times and then sometimes it will start let it high idle slid it in gear and dies and wont start again. oh I dont have a tach the gas line has a tee for the kicker motor but primer bulbs stay hard? has a built in tank
 
Squeezie staying hard? It shouldn't. It should go soft after inital start. You have the old plunger style choke?Pics??If you have the new enricher/primer, it has a diaphram in it that can go bad and feed a ton of gas in and cause stalling. Pull the plugs and see if they are burning right or have a lot of gas on them.Get a new set and try them. Pull the fuel pump and check the diaphram and check valves.They used 2 different ones on that motor,depending on the serial #. You have that? Try to isolate the two motors.Pinch off the line to the 2nd motor.Usually it doesn't work well 2 motors on 1 tank with out a valve to switch to each motor. Some timing lights have a tach built in. Or there is a tool, called a Tiny Tach works great in situations like this.
 
once it runs the squeeze is soft takes about a half squeeze. the choke is ele. has a butterfly works. I will buy a switch for gas line today and put it on. and i will get you the serial# I unhooked the fuel line at carb once and it pumped fuel when i turned key and checked filter. I checked compression last nite both were 148 psi put the plug on top of the motor hit the key and could see spark, but dont know if it always gets spark. im going to put new switch in today also maybe thats not always passin the power? some times when you push for chock and turn key it dont roll over let of the chock and it whirls ? thanks for your help I will try that stuff today
 
A lot of motors do sound nice when running on a hose.-There is no " work " to do for the motor.---------Check to make sure that spark can jump a gap of 3/8" on each plug lead.
 
ok think maybe its week spark some times? started it today afew times and then it wouldnt start but the plugs were wet. I tried jumpin spark but it wouldnt jump 3/8" or 1/4" so what would that be? both cylinders
 
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31THQUebdTL__SL500_AA300_.jpgYou use spark testers? Holding the plug against the block won't give the results you need.Auto Zone sells the tester in the pic.$6 Use it. If it really has weak spark? Then start at the stator. Outboard ignition . com has test procedures for your motor.
 
ok im going to auto zone today ill get a tester (never seen one before)and check it that way and let you know. thanks for all the help
 
No If it's running on land that's probably not the problem.Picture of your choke? According to the parts diagrams,you should have an enricher?How about serial #s and model#? What are the rpms?At idle?1100 In gear,in the water?750-800 You know how to use the fast idle?
 
its not even running on land no more, I bought the spark tester you told me, but have no spark now its in that no run mode again. serial #0E001982 there is no model # when its running it runs great idles in n. and in gear nice. I had this same problem all last summer. i tried last nite to start it and no luck so its not a warmed up thing, cause it wont start cold. this is just unreal im going to see if they can bench test some of these parts.
 
Start with the kill switch. Outboard ignition . com has test procedures.
No Fire At All:

  1. Disconnect the black/yellow kill wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
  2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
  3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
  4. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:
Motors with Black Stator
WireRead ToResistanceDVA
Blue
Red		Blue/White
Red/White		3250-3650
75-90		180V or more
25V or more
Motors with Red Stator
WireRead ToResistanceDVA
White/GreenGreen/White500-700180V or more
Red Stator Adapter
WireRead ToResistanceDVA
BlueEngine GroundOpen180V or more

No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder:

  1. If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect a inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder.
  2. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:
WireRead ToResistanceDVA
Brown wire (#1)
Brown wire (#1)
White wire (#2)		White wire (#2)
Engine GND
Engine GND		800-1400
Open
Open		4V or more
1V or more (a)
1V or more (a)

  1. This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cyli?lder is low — disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low — the trigger is bad.

  1. Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.


Engine will not rev beyond 3000-4000 RPM:

  1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders acting up usually indicate a bad stator.
  2. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Blue wire and Blue/White wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Blue to Engine GND if the engine has a Red stator kit installed).
  3. Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Red wire and Red/White wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than what is on the Blue wire indicates a bad stator.


High Speed Miss:

  1. Connect an inductive Tachometer each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder”.
  2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high speed miss when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
  3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.
Page 9 - Index - Page 11
 
well I took the boat to the boat shop he put a stator on it and said it started and ran perfect then shut it off and tried to start it again and it poped the new stator ? so they cant check it out no more till the middle of next week. I think its a intermittent thing because thats what it has been doing start sometimes and not others{no spark} so im going to pick it up tommaro and piss with it myself Ill try some of the things you sent me. and check the wires.I took the boat in the day before you sent them. maybe I should unbolt the motor and give it a kick of the back drive away and start over a new [used] motor??
 
Have you tried running it with the cowling off? I have a similiar issue with my 120. runs great on the hose, starts and runs only for about 30 seconds with lower uit submerged. removed the cowling and ran great on the river, put the cowling on and it stalled out again. I have an exhaust leak somewhere, choking out the carbs with the cowl on, you may have the same issue... just my 2 cent
 
Hi Steve,Welcome.
Usually if they stop posting.
They have fixed it.
Or sold it.
The rubber bellows in the mid section,the clamp is bad, the rubber ripped.
Or the gasket under the head could bad.
Fill out the profile,location?
You might be near someone who can help.
 
Thanks Jerry. I have a thread going over at iboats.com on it. I was just looking around for similiar issues. I'ii staet a new thread on my issues a lil later. Thanks
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
Hi Steve,Welcome.
Usually if they stop posting.
They have fixed it.
Or sold it.
The rubber bellows in the mid section,the clamp is bad, the rubber ripped.
Or the gasket under the head could bad.
Fill out the profile,location?
You might be near someone who can help.
Click to expand...


I have been looking around, and noticed very few are putting their location into the profile.
It's great to see that you mention it should be done. The ignition system troubleshooting you posted hopefully is just what would be needed.
 
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