View Full Version : 1969 Shoreline (1969 Crestliner Norseman)

03-27-2013, 04:36 PM
I recently purchased a 1969 19' Crestliner Norseman that cam with the original Shoreline tandem axel trailer.

Its a great trailer but needs new rubber all around (185 70 R13). I put wheels from my work trailer (225 75 R15) on it to get it home (I had to raise the bolt on fenders) and I am considering making that change permanent so that my wheels and tires are interchangeable (I've got 2 other trailers that already use the 15" wheels).

After giving it some thought, I'm guessing I want to stay with the smaller wheels to make the boat easier to get into the water. Can anyone confirm that?

I'm showing my ignorance here--The trailer is a tilt unit. Can the tilt be used to assist in getting the trailer in and out of the water? Is it for draining purposes? Is it???

The trailer tongue seems very long. Again, I am sure it helps launch and trailer the boat, but it does not track well at all (for reference, I drive either a 12' or 18' trailer everyday for work). Any advice on whether it could be shortened or left?

I would also like to paint the trailer but it will need some surface preparation. Is sand blasting feasible/cost effective? (That may be a regional question I realize-Iím in Utah)

What is the best paint to use on the trailer? (I have a quality HVLP paint sprayer)

Any chance of finding replacement logos after the paint job?

Thanks in advance!

03-28-2013, 07:48 AM
1. I don't think 2" is going to make much difference on loading and unloading. It really depends on the ramps you will be using, and how far you can keep the bottom of your engine above ground level.
2. Tilt trailers primarily are used to make unloading and loading easier. Is this a bunk trailer or does it have rollers?
3. Yes, that tongue looks a bit too long. It likely was not the original trailer fitted to the boat. You want to set up your boat so that the center of gravity is just slightly forward of the axels so that the tongue weight is no more than 10% and no less than 6% of the total weight of boat and trailer. That will dictate your shortest tongue length. There is a ton of information on trailer set-up on this forum and many others. Search for Trailering Magazine, under Boat US. I consider those guys the best.
4. If you are exclusively in freshwater, which you appear to be, then any good metal paint will do. The trick of course is good prep. Sandblasting would probably be the most cost effective, using a grinding wheel in places where needed. To do a really good job, consider totally disassembling the trailer - axels, springs, coupler, and all. The most important step is then to use a very good metal primer in multiple coats. For a really first class job, consider Interlux Primocon underwater primer. That stuff is awesome. I've used it on lower units, outboard motor extensions and a variety of other saltwater-soaked metals. Indeed, if you use the gray (YPA984) you may not even want to paint over it. It dries to a color very similar to the Honda Silver that you see on Honda outboards. It's a bit pricey, but I've always felt it was worth it. It's available through West Marine and Jamestown Distributors, among others. If you want to go cheap, consider the spray-on cold galvanized paint.
5. If the company is still in busines, they will typically provide new decals for a small price.

03-28-2013, 11:59 PM
Great information CHawk_man!

The trailer does have rollers down the center and bunks as well!

I'll check out the info on setting the trailer up that you referenced.