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Johnson gt150 VRO bypass

Oldboatguy8911

Contributing Member
I have a 89 Johnson GT150 it runs great but after turning it on a buzzer starts sounding.. After googling I have suspected the VRO is going bad and not injecting oil. My question is simple , can I just disconnect the wires, and plug the oil line. And mix manually? What would be the process of BYPASSING the VRO
 
Are you saying that the warning horn starts to sound the instant you turn the key to the run position (not running), just simply turning the key to the RUN position?

If this is the case, while the horn is sounding, remove the TAN wire from the warning horn. If the beeping continues, the horn is faulty.... if the beeping stops immediately, either the TAN iwre is grounding out somewhere OR (and most likely) one of the sensors at the engine has failed... (2 Overheat Sensors, Fuel Restriction Vacuum Valve, VRO Circuitry).

Reverting to pre-mix is done as follows.

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine.

Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

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I'm taking the boat out for the first time myself Wednesday. I will let you know . I am still going to bypass the VRO whether or not if it is the the problem. I just want the ease of mind that it is getting oil
 
I'm taking the boat out for the first time myself Wednesday. I will let you know . I am still going to bypass the VRO whether or not if it is the the problem. I just want the ease of mind that it is getting oil. Do you understand how important that is?.....

I suggest you remove that portion of your tag. It comes across in a negative manner!
 
I suggest you remove that portion of your tag. It comes across in a negative manner!

How so?.. I took off my signature anyways been meaning too it was just a bunch of nonsense. The " do you understand how important that is?...." Was from a song called "working man by hank 3
 
Took the boat out after I did the VRO bypass.. Runs great! But I noticed when I pulled back up to the launch I heard a buzz, then about 30 seconds or so pass and I heard it again. The water pump was running and in good condition. What should I check for? I warmed the boat up properly and took off got the boat up to 60mph and ran it wide open for about 10 minutes. Came to a stop let it idle, then ran her at WOT for 10 min again .. No buzzing during any of this. But as I pulled back to the launch to load I heard the buzzing. Any guesses
 
Took the boat out after I did the VRO bypass.. Runs great! But I noticed when I pulled back up to the launch I heard a buzz, then about 30 seconds or so pass and I heard it again.

If the VRO was eliminated as per my previous post, the only sensors left in the circuit would be the two heat sensors (one in each head) that activates the warning horn if a overheating scenario is encountered, and the vacuum switch that activates that same warning horn if the engine encounters a fuel restriction.

This would be a steady constant beeping.
 
Pulse beep.......

A beep every other second = The VRO circuit would still be active and indicating a no oil situation.

A beep evey 20 or 40 seconds = Low oil level in the oil tank.

Did you eliminate these two circuits as I mentioned?
 
I cut the oil line and plugged it with a screw and hose clamp. Traced the two wires from the VRO to a clamp connector with a metal piece holding it together.. Traced the wires from the oil tank up to the motor and disconnected two more wires, one was grounded to the engine the other was connected with a little connector unless I missed something else?
 
Traced the two wires from the VRO to a clamp connector with a metal piece holding it together..?

I don't comprehend that circuit, I have no idea of what you're speaking of. There should have been at least three wires (on later VRO's 4 wires) leading from the VRO which are encased in a black plastic inuslating sleeve. These wires would lead to a rubber electrical plug that is plugged into another electrical plug.... this is what should be disconnected (unplugged).
 
Yes that is what I unplugged, then I traced the wires from the oil tank to the motor and disconnected them . Premixed 50:1 cranked her up no problem!
 
Yes that is what I unplugged (VRO electrical plug), then I traced the wires from the oil tank to the motor and disconnected them . Premixed 50:1 cranked her up no problem!

Then there is no circuit left that would emit a "every other second" or a "every 20 or 40 second beep.

You say... ("I heard a buzz, then about 30 seconds or so pass and I heard it again")... That would be a low oil level warning from the oil tank but you say you have those wires disconnected.
 
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