DeepThought
New member
OK,
Had an issue with the Alternator and while waiting for a replacement added a diode splitter so that the engine charges 2 batteries.
Alternator was definately FUBAR but the motor would run and I got a ACG fault light and a warning beep (oil pressure light green and on and overheat off).
So while waiting for the new unit, replaced the main wires to the Starter and Ground, then cut the alternator output wire off the solenoid and spliced to a third heavy duty wire (after the 90A fuse) which goes to the diode splitter and then to the main and 'house' batteries. All terminals crimped and soldered.
Now the new alternator is fitted, still have the same fault (or the same symptom), though voltmeter shows a 14.7v output at the alternator terminal, same at the Diode block input and the house +ve is 14.6 but the main is only showing 13.2.
As the terminal on the starter is to the main battery, is the on board diagnostics registering the 13.2 and expecting it to be higher with a working alternator?
Should one of the smaller white wires on the solenoid terminal now go direct to the alternator output to allow the on-board diagnostics to 'see' a working alternator.
Or could it be that there is still a fault which was simultaneous to (or resulted from) the alternator going bad?
I get the feeling that I'm missing something obvious, as I've done this sort of thing before on Diesels with no issues. Damn those Little Black Boxes...
Had an issue with the Alternator and while waiting for a replacement added a diode splitter so that the engine charges 2 batteries.
Alternator was definately FUBAR but the motor would run and I got a ACG fault light and a warning beep (oil pressure light green and on and overheat off).
So while waiting for the new unit, replaced the main wires to the Starter and Ground, then cut the alternator output wire off the solenoid and spliced to a third heavy duty wire (after the 90A fuse) which goes to the diode splitter and then to the main and 'house' batteries. All terminals crimped and soldered.
Now the new alternator is fitted, still have the same fault (or the same symptom), though voltmeter shows a 14.7v output at the alternator terminal, same at the Diode block input and the house +ve is 14.6 but the main is only showing 13.2.
As the terminal on the starter is to the main battery, is the on board diagnostics registering the 13.2 and expecting it to be higher with a working alternator?
Should one of the smaller white wires on the solenoid terminal now go direct to the alternator output to allow the on-board diagnostics to 'see' a working alternator.
Or could it be that there is still a fault which was simultaneous to (or resulted from) the alternator going bad?
I get the feeling that I'm missing something obvious, as I've done this sort of thing before on Diesels with no issues. Damn those Little Black Boxes...