Honda BF50, not started in 3 years, what to do?

Hi, just joined, lots of good information here.


I have a 1995 BF50A on a 15' Boston Whaler. I have had it since new and it has always worked well. The problem is I have not started it in over 3 years. I did not take any action to mothball it, so to speak. I talked with one of the local (Charlotte NC) Honda dealers and they suggested it probably needs the carbs reworked/cleaned and also an impeller? They also mentioned that the whaler fiberglass fuel tank may need to be replaced or have some type of filter put on because of the affects of ethanol gas.


Although I have tools, am relatively handy and have a covered work area, I have read enough on this forum to make me think that even with a shop manual this is probably not a job I should attempt as I have no experience with outboards other than changing the oil and filter.


I have two questions:


1. Does the suggested service sound about right?


2. If a motor has not started in years, is it a good idea to put a small about of oil in the spark plug hole, let soak, and gently turn over a few times? If so, I would feel better about it if I did this myself before I took it in to the dealer. What weight oil would I use? Perhaps I would do a "cold" oil and filter change as well?


[FONT=&quot]thanks very much for any ideas,[/FONT]

Hi WhaleBait!

Welcome to the forum. First, I would agree with your Honda dealer on at least two of the three and probably "punt" on the third.

The carburetor cleaning recommendation is valid IF you experience any difficulty with getting the engine to start, idle smoothly or deliver full power. Any of those would be a pretty good indication that the carbs might need to be serviced after having set for so long. But, don't forget the old adage; "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I've seen outboards and other engines sit for longer periods than three years and have them fire right up and run beautifully. So, I say give it a chance to "clear it's throat" before getting out the wrenches.

Changing the water pump impeller, on the other hand, I would say is a must. Those things tend to not perform well after two or three seasons whether it be sitting or turning every day. Sitting might actually be worse as they take a "set" and harden in that one position and then tend to crack and come apart when spun and heated up pumping water. And, when they break up, they cause you more problems by possibly getting the small pieces of the vanes stuck up in water passages. Change the pump! I always recommend doing the full kit and not just the impeller. A few bucks more but worth every penny. Same goes for the thermostat. Cheap, cheap, cheap insurance and should be at least looked at after all this time. Might as well change it while you're in there.

The fiberglass tank thing sounds reasonable, but I just don't have any experience there so I'll defer that conversation to someone that does. I will say though that you could just use a portable tank until you sort that out to get you going.

I'm a little surprised that your dealer didn't mention the transmission oil. I would at least check the level prior to cranking the engine over as there are bearings and meshed gears that rotate with the main shaft in there that definitely need lube while moving. If you can, place the lower end in a trash can of water for testing purposes. If the prop shaft seal is leaking, you might see oil rise to the surface of the water and get some early warning. I prefer running an outboard like this as opposed to the "muffs". However, the only real way to be sure all is well with the gearcase is to do an oil change to look for contamination or pieces and do a pressure and vacuum test.

I would agree with doing a cold oil and filter change prior to trying to start her up. There will be some acids from combustion gasses and condensate moisture in the old crankcase oil and so why take the chance?

Your plan to "fog" the cylinders prior to cranking is a sound one too and here's how I would go about it:

Pull all the plugs for inspection/replacement and or regap. Use WD-40 with the spray straw to "fog" or "mist" the cylinders. WD is light and will displace any moisture that might be on the cylinder walls. Be generous in the application. Then turn the engine over several times with the plugs still out to evacuate the WD and whatever it dislodges from the cylinder.

Then, tilt the outboard up as close to horizontal as you can and see it you can get about 1/2 teaspoon of 30 wt. engine oil in all three cylinders in that position. Let it sit like that for several minutes to allow the oil to spread over the piston crown surfaces and provide a little prelube for the rings. DO NOT turn the engine over. Reinstall the plugs with the oil still in there. You should do this as a last step just prior to attempting to start the engine after all other checks and services are complete.

That's all I can think of in my late night stupor and I hope it helps.

Again, welcome aboard and good luck getting back out on the water.

The professor has spoken! All very good advice.

I would add one more thing about the fuel. Yes definitely start off with a small external tank with clean fuel, non-ethanol if possible. Before hooking back up to your main tank on the Whaler, I would completely drain and clean the tank. If the fuel was laced with ethanol, then it is almost certain it has experienced a phase separation. I've found a convenient way to do this is to purchase an after-market automotive fuel pump and hook up a plastic hose that will go to the very lowest corner of your fuel tank. Jack up the front of the trailer, then jack up one side of the axel, so that the tank is leaning backward, and tilted. Run the hose to the lowest corner of the tank, and start pumping out the fuel. It may take several hours, but it is a safe and reliable method. Depending on how much junk comes out, you may want to add a gallon or two of new gas, wash that around in the tank, and repeat the process. Then, if you add a 10 micron Racor in-line fuel-water seperator in your fuel line, that would would likely catch anything left coming out of the tank.

Thanks jgmo, CHawk,

I like your advice about not rebuilding the carbs until necessary. This means I can do the other stuff myself with a shop manual.

I had read on the web about ethanol http://www.iboats.com/basics/ethanol_fuels.html:

• Ethanol can break down resins and fillers in fiberglass gas tanks, causing them to leak.
• Resins leached from fiberglass tanks can go through the fuel system, sticking to valves and other internal engine parts. These deposits have caused bent pushrods and have clogged intake valves

Moeller makes an 18 gallon that would replace my 15 gallon fibergalss which is under the bench seat. http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Boati...=1348949360&sr=8-4&keywords=Marine+Fuel+Tanks

I'm not sure about the interior state of my gas line and bulb (17 years old) so I was going to replace all the way to the engine snap on fitting.

Yes, definitely replace the fuel line and bulb. At 17 years old, they are far beyond their normal life span.

All that info on iboats is correct. If you can get that tank out without tearing up the entire deck, then do so. I was just offering an alternative just in case you can't get the old tank out easily. On my boat, the whole deck would have to come out. The Moeller tank looks like a good deal.