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Bf225 warning beeper

D

dnifong1

New member
Trailered the boat for 5 hours to get to the gulf for our once a year scalloping trip. 6 people included. Unloaded boat. Started engine. 1 min 30 seconds later, the warning horn comes on. Intermittent 1 second tones. Motor is 1 year old with 105 hours. Flawless before this time. Before the trip I changed the oil and filter. Panic set in. Checked oil levels of course. All good and no lights. Ran the motor for several cycles. Runs good and was not over heating. Water pressure is low at idle. About 1 or 2 psi. But pee stream was normal. Went under way. The horn would not sound if we were over 4 grand. Come back to idle and it would come on. Cycle the ignition and it would come in 1 to 2 min. Go under way and it would not come on.

After reading here I ordered a water pump and a oxygen sensor. Ill let you know how it goes.

Dale
 
dark_star said:
Was the green light lit indicating good oil pressure ?
also assume the red light was off indicating no overheat ?
Click to expand...

thanks.

Yes, the green light was on, and I pulled the cowling off. engine temps were good.

I just read the manual "duh"

it states that 1 second intervals indicate a charing system problem. whats funny also, is the shore power will not plug up without tripping the circuit breaker panel, and the Volt guage reads 14volts while the engine is running?
 
Friend of mine has the same engine and is currently hunting for the same problem. Engine runs fine but he gets the 1 second intermittent horn at low rpm's. Please let us know what you find and I will do the same. 14V charging is fine and normal. Usually starts charging at ~14v and drops back to ~13v after a while. This is a normal charge cycle for most 12v alternators.
 
aliboy said:
Friend of mine has the same engine and is currently hunting for the same problem. Engine runs fine but he gets the 1 second intermittent horn at low rpm's. Please let us know what you find and I will do the same. 14V charging is fine and normal. Usually starts charging at ~14v and drops back to ~13v after a while. This is a normal charge cycle for most 12v alternators.
Click to expand...

Ok, i will. Ive ordered the water pump, and oxygen sensor. One more thing. I put in a bottle of Zmax fuel treatment, and it started right after that. coincidence I hope
 
Do you have a 4-light consol or a 2-light consol? If a 4-light, what lights are lite when alarm is going off?

If Oil light on, and other three are off and it's a short intermediate alarm, check your on-board fuel-water separator for water, or a stuck float. If longer intermittent tones (as you indicated) then one of the other three (red) lights should be on. If it's the MIL light (check engine) then you have a problem with the fuel feed or the programmed fuel injection. If it's the red Alternator/charge light, it's an alternator problem. Check all connections, especially the ground connections.

Any overheat problem will give out a continuous alarm.

To get to the exact problem, turn off key switch, remove cover, remove electrical cover on front of engine. Pull out the red four-prong connector right in front. Use a paper clip to shunt the lime green/white wire to the black wire. Turn key switch on, and count the number and type of blinks on the MIL light. There may be long blinks and short blinks. For example, two long blinks followed by three short blinks is a code 23. Blinks will repeat until you turn off the key switch. A single short blink about every 3 seconds is a bad O2 sensor.
 
CHawk, man I appreciate that. I have four light light panel. panel.jpg Ill try what you said.
The beeper is normal at start. 2 beeps with key turned on. oil light goes out after engine starts. no lights on while running or when the tone is sounding. It does about a 1 second beep. consistantly and steady. dont know why the GFI breaker blows when I try to plug in shore power. I will disco the battery charger next?
BTW, I made the carbon fiber panel from scratch. boats named catching rocks, because we hit the last rock on the end of jetty running 40 mph. went airborn, spun around, threw everything out of the boat. broke a 225 motor in half and caught on fire. if the rock, had come though the bow, it could have been very bad:) anyways, now the wife "who was driving" wants to go fishing this weekend:) gotta fix the d*#m boat.
forgot to mention. i disonnected the water/fuel unit at the dock. I took it off and drained it. no water present. then i started the motor with it disconnected. the tone started instantly. I suppose that ment it was working correctly??

chawk_man said:
Do you have a 4-light consol or a 2-light consol? If a 4-light, what lights are lite when alarm is going off?

If Oil light on, and other three are off and it's a short intermediate alarm, check your on-board fuel-water separator for water, or a stuck float. If longer intermittent tones (as you indicated) then one of the other three (red) lights should be on. If it's the MIL light (check engine) then you have a problem with the fuel feed or the programmed fuel injection. If it's the red Alternator/charge light, it's an alternator problem. Check all connections, especially the ground connections.

Any overheat problem will give out a continuous alarm.

To get to the exact problem, turn off key switch, remove cover, remove electrical cover on front of engine. Pull out the red four-prong connector right in front. Use a paper clip to shunt the lime green/white wire to the black wire. Turn key switch on, and count the number and type of blinks on the MIL light. There may be long blinks and short blinks. For example, two long blinks followed by three short blinks is a code 23. Blinks will repeat until you turn off the key switch. A single short blink about every 3 seconds is a bad O2 sensor.
Click to expand...
 
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Oil light goes off when after engine starts? Earlier post you said the green light was on. Green oil light should be on when engine is running. If it goes off, that indicates low oil pressure. But if oil pressure is low, you should get a continuous alarm. Check again - it's often hard to see in daylight.

Yep, the fuel/water separator sounds like it is working okay.

Sounds like you might have a bad O2 sensor, but that is unusual for most late model 225's. However, there may be another issue with the O2 Sensor. Send me an e-mail at [email protected], and I will send you two service bulletins dealing with the O2 sensor in later model 225's.

BTW - What the heck are you using ZMAX for? That stuff is really questionable. See http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.shtm
.
 
Here's some reading on the Z Maxx deal and other additives. It should be noted that Z MAX kinda sorta "prevailed" in court. If you call agreeing to other stipulations and paying $1 million back to customers prevailing.

http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html

This has some good advice about why MIXING some products and engine oils can be detrimental to the life of your engine.

It should also be noted that the product PROLONG is listed just beneath this article. I used PROLONG in my engines a few years ago because I'm a racing fan and having Smokey Yunik and Carol Shelby endorse products made me feel safe in trying them. I spun a rod bearing in my Ford F 150 as I started it on a warm, April, Southern California morning. When I pulled the engine to replace it, I put it on an engine stand, rolled it over and pulled the pan. I never did determine what exactly caused the bearing to seize but I never used Prolong again.

It should also be noted that Smokey and Carol are no longer with us.
 
Not to butt in, but you did not get any additional lights when the beeper started because the charge light and the pgm light are not working. They did not come on when you turned the key switch to on.

It is not an overheat. Check the wiring behind the key switch to make sure they are plugged in. The leads that you are looking for are red/blue and the other is white/blue.

Until you get those lights working, you will not know if the problem is a sensor or the charging system.

Is this motor still under warranty? If it is, you should take it to a dealer. Also, if you motor is a fairly new motor, the hard to start issue may be solved by an ECM replacement if it is in the right serial number range.

A dealer can check all that out.

Mike
 
Mike - everyone on this forum appreciates it whenever you "butt in."

Yep - noticed immediately that two of the lights did not come on. Must be fixed.
 
Wow. I did not know that about the panel. The dealer installed the new panel when the motor was installed last fall. Don't know about the warranty. It's one year old with 105 hours. My local dealer closed this year. Closest one now is over 2 hours one way:(. That means 8 hours travel time total. And three to four tanks of fuel or 300 bucks. That's why I ordered an ox sensor to try:). I really appreciate your inputs. Dale
 
Dale - send me an email at [email protected]. I think there are two service bulletins you need to read that may be relevant to your motor (SB 70 and SB 71.) Not sure if they apply. You will need to check your exact model and SN against those listed on the bulletins. Both service bulletins require a replacement of the HO2 sensor AND the ECM. Just replacing the HO2 sensor will not fix the problem.

It looks like you're going to need to make the trip to the other dealer for warranty work.
 
From info I got off the web, I think you live in Georgia. If you are indeed in the USA and just bought the engine new a year ago, you should have a five year warranty on the engine. You only have a one year warranty on the accessories, like your key switch assembly.

If you are still within that year, it may be worth the trip. It could also just been a rigging error and they did not plug in the wiring harness, but if there is something wrong with the panel, that could save you some bucks.

Good luck on whatever you decide.

Mike
 
Ok thanks. I accessed the key panel wiring. Your right. The wires are plugged there. I traced it to the motor and the connector is not connected to the motor. I looked for a long time and can not find a matching plug?? S there is no way of knowing if a light is on:(. Is there a hidden plug?

btw. The main grd wire connector is corroded. Also the water pump and o2 sensor came in. Ran out of time:(
 
Mike, the harness coming from the panel has 3 wires. white/blue, white/red, and yellow. It runs back to the motor and is not connected. the diagram that you sent is correct, but my connector is wrong. I wonder if the 2004 wiring is not compadable with the 2011 motor. or can I change the terminal connector or something? thanks, dale
 
Originally, the harness for the indicators was separate from the main wiring harness. Later, they started making it part of the 14 wire wiring harness.

Do you need the 6 pin connector for the end of the cable going to the motor? If so, changing the connector only takes a couple of minutes. If you need the 6 pin connector, I am pretty sure that it is 07VPZ-002050A.
Retails for $8.96.

You will need a very small screwdriver to move the little plastic tab holding each pin, then you can pull the pin out. Then you just push the pins into the new connector.


I will double check tomorrow to be sure it is the one.

Mike
 
07VPZ-002050A is the right one to use.

All Honda dealers should have these, but you can Google it and it will come up from boats.net and a few other places.

Mike
 
Mike, good news. the correct 02 sensor came in. "the smaller one." Changed it out, fired it up, and no more beeper. Not running all that smooth at idle, but I'll take the no more beeper:)

I also, changed the water pump. now there is 7 psi at idle.

I've got the plug you mentioned on order. I keep you posted.

thanks again, dale
 
Mike, I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your help with this.

I received the plug you suggested, switched out the wires and whala, the panel works as advertised.

In summary, the O2 sensor fixed the beeper.
And the correct plug fixed the light issue.

I still wonder if the bottle of Zmax fuel treatment caused the 02 sensor failure???

May never know. I will not try that again.

Once again. thanks to chawk man and mike, I appreciate all of your help.

Dale
 
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Good deal! Thanks for the feedback. The next time you get a beeping and a light, you can actually determine what is wrong and not guess.

However....if you have any "guesses" for lottery numbers, please send them my way.

Mike
 
Update. well, we took the boat to savannah. started great, no beeper:) Ran better than ever. strong and smooth. However, now when I press the trim tab switch the chartplotters shut off. they come back on right away. also, the trim gauge reads all the way down unless the motor is raised very high. In other words at full up, it reads almost all the way down. the only wiring changes i made was to install the indicator panel plug. Question, do you know what the yellow wire is for?

thanks,

dale
 
You said trim tabs, do you mean the trim and tilt switch on shifter? If it is actually the trim tabs, they should not be wired anywhere in the Honda wiring....except getting power at the battery. Even if it is the trim and tilt, then look toward the battery first. Make sure you battery has clean connections and is in good condition. It should also have at least 800 cca. Connect a voltmeter directly to the battery and watch what the voltage does when you push the buttons. If the voltage drops way down, then you have either a bad battery or the trim tab motor has an issue.

As for the yellow lead....

If you mean the yellow (should be yellow with a blue tracer) lead going to the indicator lamps, it provides 12v to the lamps.

You could always unplug what you did and see if the problem goes away... but I do not think it is related unless someone tapped into the cable.


As for the trim issue. Raise your motor all the way up and check the plastic lever that is above the trim motor to the left under the mounting. If you can not find it, follow the wires coming out of the port side cowling that go into the side of the engine mount. The trim sender (lever) is on the other side of the entry point..

See if you can move the lever up and down by hand. It is spring loaded and follows the tilt of the engine as it goes up and down. Most likely, it got cruded up (technical term) and is not moving as it should. Spraying with wd-40 might help loosen it. Work it up and down and that might fix it. May be other things, but that is the first place to look.

Mike
 
Update. sorry its been so long. as stated earlier. the new O2 senor fixed the beeper. as far as the wierd lights, trim tab guage inaccurate. it was the main ground wire, "the one that goes to the front of the boat, not back to the motor." it did not get conneted after i did the repairs. I guess it fell down beside the battery. I did not notice. boet would start and run good, but the ground to the dash area was the issue. all good now.
 
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